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Old 04-27-2013, 05:38 PM   #4711
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters View Post
I rode numerous times in 30-40 degree weather and never even noticed the slightest issue with cold starts. Snooker is absolutely right about comparing the Lithium batteries to lead acids, the numbers don't exactly jive. But with that said, The EarthX I installed was an "18Ah" battery versus a 10Ah stock battery. Even allowing for some number fudging, it is a significantly higher capacity battery, yet still FAR lighter and somewhat smaller.

Since I used a small windscreen this winter, I never needed to use by heated bib (~30W). But I used my heated grips (~30W) as well as my LED lights and GPS. The voltage never fell below charging level at idle.

So far, I am still very happy. But until it lasts at least 3 years, and really more like 5, it's hard to give an endorsement. But at this point, I would certainly consider another. That said, if there was a Odyssey battery had equal or higher specs than stock I would have gone that route. But the Odyssey that fits actually has pretty meager specs. Although I'm sure the quality is top shelf.

The other thing about the Lithium batteries,m especially in your case Snooker, is you could use your original battery and buy a small (10Ah) lithium battery and store it in your bags. The size and weight would be neglible, as long as you were willing to accept the price.

But my outward experience so far is that it has had no apparent downside, and lots of upside (capacity, size, weight).
I sound like I'm arguing but not... but again separating the Cranking use/spec vs. the steady Ah use/spec, it is awesome at cranking (though it is still not an apples to apples spec when compared to AGM or lead acid).... but the Ah spec is an even worse comparison. And BOTH of these sets of specs have little or no standards (voltage drop, temperature, whatever) to compare LiFePO4 numbers to AGM or lead acid, so be careful.

For example, Earth-X may call it an 18Ah battery but at that LINK I mentioned above he is saying things like this, the way he measured things:

ETX24 labeled as 24 AH he measured at an actual 6.3 AH
ETX36 labeled as 36 AH he measured at an actual 14 AH (it uses a different cell technology).

I'm not sure what his ETX18 claim is exactly... but I'd guess it is closer to the 4.6AH range... and I admit I didn't read much of that thread so who know what his measurements for something like an Odyssey are, for comparison.

The 8 cell A123 pack I use from SyclBatt is labeled as "4.6 AH" and I don't think they tried to publish any "PbEq" marketing type spec. As you mentioned, I actually do have a spare 4 cell "2.3 AH" and on this trip I will be carrying it. Both batteries have high current quick connect leads so if I'm really concerned in the middle of nowhere... I can keep it in my sleeping bag (if cold out) and swap it in the morning quickly if desperate. Ridiculous to do but in this case peace of mind, it is smaller than a pair of socks.

My "brain model" on cold weather is that to warm the LiFePO4 it will have to use some of its "Ah" energy store which depletes it some, before it can then crank. So it needs some storage capacity, but different than AGM or lead.

In your case you really don't have that many accessories (maybe 8 actual Amps) and added to the stock light and items, it is close to being a strain but not too bad.

To quote Colebatch from HERE (and I DON'T know what kind of battery technology he was talking about...):

"The X-Challenge doesn't have enough power to run a 60w headlight and 2 x 55w sidelights. Thats 170 watts of lights ... plus parking lights, ECU ...

I was flattening my battery with 85 watts of heated clothing plus 70 watts of light .. i.e. 155 watts.


Your 1200 GS probably had a 720 watt alternator ... the one on the X-Challenge is theoretically 280 watts ... but thats 280 watts Mamimum, running sustained high revs. My experience is you probably have 140 watts of "useable" power from the alternator... and a standard headlight on high beam is 60 of that. "
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:21 PM   #4712
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I don't take it as arguing and pretty much agree with what you've said.

I couldn't find anything that really showed what the actual capacity would be under various current draws. Clearly, they have ample cranking capacity. But that is actually not a big concern for me, especially with a fuel injected bike (save for a river crossing gone bad). I'm more concerned about how much capacity I have with a lesser draw before I harm the battery or kill it. While I don't have huge electrical demands, the bike isn't putting out much at idle. With that said, even 4.6Ah is probably pretty close to the useable capacity of a 10Ah lead acid battery. That's a bit of an assumption on my part. I thought the capacity would be more, but I think you may be right a draw of a couple amps. (I never could find the actual posts where cy determined those capacities).

It would certainly be nice if we could get the info as easy as you can with lead acid batteries.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #4713
mcgarrett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTCOliverNorth View Post
Curious to see how you end up mounting the xtank to the TT subframe. The lack of charcoal canister mount points (which are used by the xtank) has stopped me from going that route.
The problem I'm finding is that the bike shops can't do the TIG welding, and the welders can't disassemble the parts of the bike necessary to do the welding. I'm going to try and get the welder to come to the bike shop, and they can work together on it. Of course, that's two sets of billable time, but it needs to be done right.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:25 AM   #4714
TobyG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarrett View Post
The problem I'm finding is that the bike shops can't do the TIG welding, and the welders can't disassemble the parts of the bike necessary to do the welding. I'm going to try and get the welder to come to the bike shop, and they can work together on it. Of course, that's two sets of billable time, but it needs to be done right.
Erik from HotRodWelding also offers TT steel subframes with the tabs already in place.


Just FYI.
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:15 AM   #4715
Tracks1
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Tig

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarrett View Post
The problem I'm finding is that the bike shops can't do the TIG welding, and the welders can't disassemble the parts of the bike necessary to do the welding. I'm going to try and get the welder to come to the bike shop, and they can work together on it. Of course, that's two sets of billable time, but it needs to be done right.
You should remove the part to be TIG welded from the bike. If not, there's a possibility of damage to bearings and electronics....been there done that!

Others may have a different view...it's not worth the risk in my opinion.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:13 PM   #4716
lbbmwtech
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I'm back! After making the mistake of sell my Xchallenge 3 years ago I finally found one in Fresno and picked it up yesterday. So a big thank you to Clay at Fresno BMW and the GM for letting the bike go. See ya'll out there!
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:39 AM   #4717
dantroop
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Good for you! I hit Fresno up last year when I was looking for an X. At that time they weren't interested in selling. Got mine in Idaho. Really like it. Enjoy!


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Old 05-03-2013, 06:51 PM   #4718
jjmead1
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Lately I have been noticing a lot more gas smell when the bike is running. It also seems to stall out. Oddly if it is wicked cold out and has not been running for hours it starts with no stalling. It is not stalling while riding just after starting and smells like it is running ' rich" .

Any ideas? TIA

No canister, and the ignition has been re soldered. No leaks that are visible and no leaks from the gas cap area.

The smell is only noticeable when running, fuel filter? bad plugs?
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:59 PM   #4719
mcgarrett
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Three X-Challenges have a play-date

A little bit of dirt and gravel with Butters and Hedd riding through Northern Virginia horse and wine country.

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Old 05-04-2013, 02:13 PM   #4720
Antti
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Nice family portrait :)

Any detailed pics about front fender from bike at center?
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:28 PM   #4721
mcgarrett
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Nice family portrait :)

Any detailed pics about front fender from bike at center?
I'm sure Hedd would be happy to oblige.

On an unrelated note, has anyone ever had issues with their ABS light not working? My ABS functions (as we found out with a test on the dirt), but the light never comes on, at startup or when trying to turn it off.
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #4722
Butters
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antti View Post
Nice family portrait :)

Any detailed pics about front fender from bike at center?
Hedd can verify, but I think it is a KTM fender attached with a bracket from schefflemeister. Although I seem to recall the KTM fender is two piece, so maybe it is a different fender. but the bracket is definitely from Stefan's shop (hedd told me today when I was eyeing it!)

here's the link: http://www.bashplates.de/BMW-G-650-X...lenge::56.html
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:48 PM   #4723
Antti
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Ok, thanks!

Heres my XC, pic taken few months ago.

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Old 05-06-2013, 03:44 AM   #4724
MizzouRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarrett View Post
I'm sure Hedd would be happy to oblige.

On an unrelated note, has anyone ever had issues with their ABS light not working? My ABS functions (as we found out with a test on the dirt), but the light never comes on, at startup or when trying to turn it off.
Over the years I've had issues with the switch on the bars. My light would come on, and I'd think my ABS was off, but as soon as I'd start rolling, it would go out.. No ABS off, not good on gravel.. The dealer thought I needed a whole new switch, which includes blinkers etc.. $200+ not going to happen. Shot some air and elec type oil in there, all good now. I was prepared to just remove the front ABS sensor, and let the light flash.. I think over the years I just had too much dust work its way into the switch mechanism..
It does sound like you have more of a light issue, than a switch issue though.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:12 AM   #4725
mcgarrett
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Originally Posted by MizzouRider View Post
Over the years I've had issues with the switch on the bars. My light would come on, and I'd think my ABS was off, but as soon as I'd start rolling, it would go out.. No ABS off, not good on gravel.. The dealer thought I needed a whole new switch, which includes blinkers etc.. $200+ not going to happen. Shot some air and elec type oil in there, all good now. I was prepared to just remove the front ABS sensor, and let the light flash.. I think over the years I just had too much dust work its way into the switch mechanism..
It does sound like you have more of a light issue, than a switch issue though.
We ran a diagnostic, and it registered the ABS button being pressed in. I'm not seeing any info on just replacing the ABS bulb/LED light.
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