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Old 06-24-2013, 11:43 PM   #4861
john_aero
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Cheers

Couldnt see them in work
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:41 AM   #4862
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My wilbers shock is a no-go

Looks lik exhaust is bent in meaning wont slot in
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:22 AM   #4863
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero View Post
My wilbers shock is a no-go

Looks lik exhaust is bent in meaning wont slot in
Loosen up the whole exhaust, including the header. Pull the can and see if the mounting post is bent from your crash. Try to straighten the mounting post and see if the exhaust goes back on with the Wilburs shock installed.
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:34 AM   #4864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
Loosen up the whole exhaust, including the header. Pull the can and see if the mounting post is bent from your crash. Try to straighten the mounting post and see if the exhaust goes back on with the Wilburs shock installed.
my concern is its still going ush hard againt shoct.

had planned on taking exhaust off just had go work.

well crash was last owner as there since day got it

lug is fairly bent and dont think will bend back without heating it (something i hate doing with alu)
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:55 AM   #4865
snooker
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Front Brakes are Weak

Need some advice on front brakes on my XCountry. After running about 13,000 miles on front EBC FA209/2 HH double sintered pads, I replaced them with the same type of pads before an offroad trip. The brakes grabbed great the entire 500 mile trip. After the trip I switched back to my "street" set of wheels that I normally run, which has a different rotor on it (I don't swap the rotor I have one on each wheel).

The problem is that one day it suddenly required a lot of brake lever pressure for the front brake to be effective. It's not like it is more mushy, it's just not effective at braking. Perhaps I should confess I have never changed brake fluid or bled them (in 20,000 miles) but as sad as that might sound I don't think it is related. This started instantly one day.

My first thought is that I picked up some lubricant or fluid on the front rotor that got onto the brake pads but I don't know how. I'm always careful if I'm spraying any lube in the brake area (which I wasn't).

If it needs cleaning what is the best way? My first thought is to remove the pads and file them a little with a file or sandpaper just to rough them up (without changing the shape and rounding them which would screw them up). I'm not sure if there is a solvent that is safe to use to clean the rotors and/or pads, and a search at ADV was not successful.

So advice on how to clean them or what else I can try??? Right now my rear is more effective than the fronts.
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Old 06-25-2013, 01:26 PM   #4866
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The pads do need to seat to the rotor. The surface of one rotor likely has ridges and troughs in different spots than the other. This could lead to less of a contact patch with the pad. Might not be as noticeable switching between road rides, but could be aggravated after a dusty 500 mile trip. Just a theory though. If that's what it is, I would imagine it would self correct in a few hundred miles. Maybe sooner if you go out and find an empty stretch of road and do some high speed stops to seat the pads to the rotor.

By the way, the brake fluid seems to get nasty in a hurry - I've bled mine 2 or 3 times in 10K miles. Bleeding it only takes a couple minutes. Probably not your problem, but not something you want to keep putting off.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:01 PM   #4867
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stupid question, but after searching, I couldn't find much on this and sorry if I failed.... Does the valve cover use a gasket on this bike?
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:34 PM   #4868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maltese View Post
stupid question, but after searching, I couldn't find much on this and sorry if I failed.... Does the valve cover use a gasket on this bike?
Take a look at BmwETK.info


Yeah, it does use one, however, it can usually just be reused, after cleaning&checking for damage.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:36 PM   #4869
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Need some advice on front brakes on my XCountry. After running about 13,000 miles on front EBC FA209/2 HH double sintered pads, I replaced them with the same type of pads before an offroad trip. The brakes grabbed great the entire 500 mile trip. After the trip I switched back to my "street" set of wheels that I normally run, which has a different rotor on it (I don't swap the rotor I have one on each wheel).

The problem is that one day it suddenly required a lot of brake lever pressure for the front brake to be effective. It's not like it is more mushy, it's just not effective at braking. Perhaps I should confess I have never changed brake fluid or bled them (in 20,000 miles) but as sad as that might sound I don't think it is related. This started instantly one day.

My first thought is that I picked up some lubricant or fluid on the front rotor that got onto the brake pads but I don't know how. I'm always careful if I'm spraying any lube in the brake area (which I wasn't).

If it needs cleaning what is the best way? My first thought is to remove the pads and file them a little with a file or sandpaper just to rough them up (without changing the shape and rounding them which would screw them up). I'm not sure if there is a solvent that is safe to use to clean the rotors and/or pads, and a search at ADV was not successful.

So advice on how to clean them or what else I can try??? Right now my rear is more effective than the fronts.
Are the rotors the same style? I run a round EBC rotor on my street front wheel and a BRAKING wave rotor on the dirt wheel. Worlds of difference between them.

Oh, go change your brake fluid!
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Old 06-26-2013, 06:38 AM   #4870
john_aero
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not got clue whats causing this,
was going heat and bend headder but nto sure will fix issue and also could end up putting creases in pipe or cracking it
may have look at making extended mount for the end can
checked the mounting lug that i taught was bent, but its exactly same as one supplied by member on another forum
any ideas

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Old 06-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #4871
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
Are the rotors the same style? I run a round EBC rotor on my street front wheel and a BRAKING wave rotor on the dirt wheel. Worlds of difference between them.

Oh, go change your brake fluid!
Hehe yeah gotta get on the fluid, at least I'm honest.

Not the same rotor. But it happened after a few hundred miles, and well after it should have been seated onto the other rotor.

The POINT is, it happened IMMEDIATELY one day. So that leads me to think some substance got on them. Any other ideas?

What is the proper way to clean pads, and/or rotor? and with what solvent and files/sandpaper or whatever?
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:49 AM   #4872
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Hey all.
Anyone know where I can get the uni filter in Canada? Touratech.ca is useless!
Also. Anyone know how to rotate my shock so I can get at the inflation valve? Mine is blocked by the accessory plug..
thanks!
Bob

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Old 06-27-2013, 07:42 PM   #4873
jjmead1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Hehe yeah gotta get on the fluid, at least I'm honest.

Not the same rotor. But it happened after a few hundred miles, and well after it should have been seated onto the other rotor.

The POINT is, it happened IMMEDIATELY one day. So that leads me to think some substance got on them. Any other ideas?

What is the proper way to clean pads, and/or rotor? and with what solvent and files/sandpaper or whatever?
Ok. So I am a damn good bicycle mechanic, and not to inept at fixing my Challenge ( its the diagnosis I need work on..). In the bicycle world we use a crap ton of $.99 alcohol on rotors and calipers and well everything. We sand the crap outta brake pads...organic, metallic, semi...sand paper and a good bedding in seems to fix most of that on most every bike I have ever touched. Bicycles use anything from mineral oil to DOT3,4,5 in their systems. Magura makes mtn bike brakes....so I'd start there -- Alcohol and sand paper. you can get the brake residue ( dust ) out of the nooks and crannies with a few Q tips. If everything is off you might as well clean and bleed.

Just a few cents worth....
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:10 AM   #4874
Niedz
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honestly ive never ever had good results sanding/filing contaminated disc brake pads. typically once contaminated its time to replace.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:12 AM   #4875
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oh yeah, and snooker-
did you try swapping the other wheel back on to see if the brakes work with that wheel since the issue arose?
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