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Old 06-28-2013, 06:44 AM   #4876
jjmead1
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Location: Lakewood, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Niedz View Post
honestly ive never ever had good results sanding/filing contaminated disc brake pads. typically once contaminated its time to replace.
contaminated pads won't sand out, but the glaze will. I agree with replacement.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:02 AM   #4877
snooker
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Thanks for some advice guys. I decide to try the "go at high speed then jam on the front brakes for all it's worth" technique! So far it has seemed to fix the problem for the most part and now they are grabby again, so far, but time will tell. These are pads with 600 miles on them so I don't want to change them out, and I really don't see how they got contaminated, but it must be superficial. OR it was the switch to the other rotor - though it worked find for the first 100 miles and I've switched them out before and nevet had this problem. ???

New question:

After 40+ years of riding, I just learned to change my own tires 2 years ago.. (thanks to Neduro's tire changing thread).

So I guess it's not too late to learn how to change the brake fluid PROPERLY... Now where is that fabulous HowTo that I need for learning??? It's probably generic and works for any bike so where is it? Oh Tim?
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:34 AM   #4878
gumbellion
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Proscreen |Install

Anyone able to snap a couple pics of where they have the mounts on thier bars for thier proscreen windshield?

Would be greatly appreciated, especially if you have cycra probend handguards
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:53 AM   #4879
SchillerM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Thanks for some advice guys. I decide to try the "go at high speed then jam on the front brakes for all it's worth" technique! So far it has seemed to fix the problem for the most part and now they are grabby again, so far, but time will tell. These are pads with 600 miles on them so I don't want to change them out, and I really don't see how they got contaminated, but it must be superficial. OR it was the switch to the other rotor - though it worked find for the first 100 miles and I've switched them out before and nevet had this problem. ???

New question:

After 40+ years of riding, I just learned to change my own tires 2 years ago.. (thanks to Neduro's tire changing thread).

So I guess it's not too late to learn how to change the brake fluid PROPERLY... Now where is that fabulous HowTo that I need for learning??? It's probably generic and works for any bike so where is it? Oh Tim?
Speed bleeder is first step. Then its a super easy job. Squeeze lever and pour fluid until it comes out clear and no air... Without speed bleeders its a lot of work for solo..
I am sure there are tons on how to on the subject. Nothing specific for the X that I know of. Car how to should work too..
Matt

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Old 06-29-2013, 11:22 AM   #4880
Butters
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The ABS didn't seem to matter on my brakes when I bled them. Just make sure you keep adding fluid to the reservoir so you don't have to bleed that.

If the fluid looks real bad, I will use a turkey baster or Mighty Vac to suck the fluid out of the reservoir and fill with clean fluid. Then the process is this (if you don't have speed bleeders):

Attach a clear tube to the bleeder and stick the end in a can/bottle/etc.

Apply some pressure to the brake lever/pedal and crack open the bleeder a bit and fluid will start to flow.

Close the bleeder before you get to the end of the stroke (not really needed, but it reduces the chance of bubbles getting sucked back in. Don't release the lever before you close the bleeder).

Repeat - many times - until the fluid coming out of the brake cylinder is clear. Keep an eye on the reservoir as you will likely have to top it off during the process.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:34 AM   #4881
snooker
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Thanks Marc. Definitely sounds easier than installing a Rekluse clutch (that only took me 5 hours but it is still working 2 years later!)

I was mainly concerned about the ABS issues, I should have mentioned that. So no problem with the junction or anything??

So SchillerM:
As to speedbleeders... at SpeedBleeder.com I see this pic - so this is it? A little checkvalve part. It says you install them and leave them in. Then to bleed your brakes you back them out 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then the checkvalve works as you do your bleeding. Then tighten them and you are done?

G650X '06-'07 uses part SB1010S for front and rear. S is Stainless, I guess that's the way to go.

How popular are these? Any issues with the thread sealant leaking over time or usage? Thanks!

oh yeah, and is it DOT 4 ? That is what the REPROM says...
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snooker screwed with this post 06-29-2013 at 11:51 AM
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:02 PM   #4882
tbarstow
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Thanks Marc. Definitely sounds easier than installing a Rekluse clutch (that only took me 5 hours but it is still working 2 years later!)

I was mainly concerned about the ABS issues, I should have mentioned that. So no problem with the junction or anything??

So SchillerM:
As to speedbleeders... at SpeedBleeder.com I see this pic - so this is it? A little checkvalve part. It says you install them and leave them in. Then to bleed your brakes you back them out 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then the checkvalve works as you do your bleeding. Then tighten them and you are done?

G650X '06-'07 uses part SB1010S for front and rear. S is Stainless, I guess that's the way to go.

How popular are these? Any issues with the thread sealant leaking over time or usage? Thanks!

oh yeah, and is it DOT 4 ? That is what the REPROM says...
you sound like a noob.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:27 PM   #4883
jabroka
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Hey guys.. for those with the TT tank.. I just got mine today and I've almost finished installing it, but I have a question.

It looks to me that it left the air filter (or pre filter since I have both UNI filters) too much in the open..

I tried leaving the filter cover but the tank wouldn't fir properly

Is it supposed to be this way or I'm missing something here?

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Old 06-29-2013, 06:27 PM   #4884
jjmead1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
you sound like a noob.



wait until I start asking questions again.......
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:13 PM   #4885
tbarstow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroka View Post
Hey guys.. for those with the TT tank.. I just got mine today and I've almost finished installing it, but I have a question.

It looks to me that it left the air filter (or pre filter since I have both UNI filters) too much in the open..

I tried leaving the filter cover but the tank wouldn't fir properly

Is it supposed to be this way or I'm missing something here?

Yes, you need to put the restrictor plate back in the air box. Punch a few holes in it and you'll be OK. Even then, try not to go splashing around in the puddles too much, as the water comes straight up and hits that area.
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Old 06-30-2013, 01:40 AM   #4886
snooker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
you sound like a noob.
I am!

... at bleeding brakes! thanks Timmy...
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Old 06-30-2013, 02:38 PM   #4887
tele-steve
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engine removal?

My X had a catastrophic failure somewhere in the transmission. I was 8 days and 2000 miles into a backcountry ride headed towards home last week when the motor rpms spike and I thought I busted my chain.
Looking down, I see chain is still intact, but the bike wont go anywhere. I can flip through the gears, and all I can do is make the grinding noise in the case go faster. Even when in neutral and coasting (which I had to for about 6 miles), the sound is a bit brutal.
There is no way to find out the problem until I can get the engine out of the bike and crack the case. Has anyone done this themselves? Any special tools I might need to buy? I imagine the dealer is going to hit me for at least $3k if I take it to them, so I'm looking to get elbow deep myself.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-tele
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:01 AM   #4888
Niedz
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well when you do get that thing out take a lot of pictures and post em up!!
im sure someone will break off their shifter shaft nubbin and may want some visual aids!
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:51 AM   #4889
jabroka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbarstow View Post
Yes, you need to put the restrictor plate back in the air box. Punch a few holes in it and you'll be OK. Even then, try not to go splashing around in the puddles too much, as the water comes straight up and hits that area.
I thought it wouldn't fit over the UNI pre filter.. I will give it a try..

thanks!
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Old 07-01-2013, 08:20 AM   #4890
gumbellion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tele-steve View Post
My X had a catastrophic failure somewhere in the transmission. I was 8 days and 2000 miles into a backcountry ride headed towards home last week when the motor rpms spike and I thought I busted my chain.
Looking down, I see chain is still intact, but the bike wont go anywhere. I can flip through the gears, and all I can do is make the grinding noise in the case go faster. Even when in neutral and coasting (which I had to for about 6 miles), the sound is a bit brutal.
There is no way to find out the problem until I can get the engine out of the bike and crack the case. Has anyone done this themselves? Any special tools I might need to buy? I imagine the dealer is going to hit me for at least $3k if I take it to them, so I'm looking to get elbow deep myself.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-tele

I doubt that you are on supermoto junkie but there is a guy on there putting in a big bore kit into his X.
Right now he has the motor apart but I am sure if you ask Mr. F he would be able to fill you in. I PMed him about this thread too
best of luck
http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...Big-bore/page2
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