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Old 07-01-2013, 08:57 AM   #4891
an13
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 34
Only special tools needed to split the engine are special socket for removing right hand side frame mounting spacer and puller bolt/nut for pulling out flywheel. Camshaft locking bolt is easy to fabricate.

F650 maintence DVD is mainly valid for G650 also, especially you can see how engine works http://faq.f650.com/dvd/
Also read the official REPROM and try to find out best method for yourself, combining both sources for instructions.

One notable thing learned from that F650 DVD is that you don't need to take off cylinder head from cylinder, just remove cylinder from engine and slide it out carefully until you can remove piston from connecting rod. Piston with it's rings can then be left inside removed cylinder.

When putting cases back together, make sure you have all the shims/spacers in correct position, if there is extra shim for example inside the case in clutch axle when it needs to be outside the case, cases won't close, I tried that.

an13 screwed with this post 07-01-2013 at 09:06 AM
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:38 PM   #4893
john_aero
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Location: Ireland
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try and re load images with wilbers isnstalled. for some reason wouldnt load earlier. so tried again here and on other g650x thread

cant get headder stop pushing against shock





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Old 07-02-2013, 01:40 AM   #4894
LTCOliverNorth
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Oddometer: 777
Quote:
Originally Posted by tele-steve View Post
My X had a catastrophic failure somewhere in the transmission. I was 8 days and 2000 miles into a backcountry ride headed towards home last week when the motor rpms spike and I thought I busted my chain.
Looking down, I see chain is still intact, but the bike wont go anywhere. I can flip through the gears, and all I can do is make the grinding noise in the case go faster. Even when in neutral and coasting (which I had to for about 6 miles), the sound is a bit brutal.
There is no way to find out the problem until I can get the engine out of the bike and crack the case. Has anyone done this themselves? Any special tools I might need to buy? I imagine the dealer is going to hit me for at least $3k if I take it to them, so I'm looking to get elbow deep myself.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-tele
Did you check the front sprocket spines to see if they stripped out? I had the exact same experience and the cause was an aftermarket front sprocket's spines giving out and the grinding noise was my driveshaft spinning free in the Center of the sprocket.

You have two options at this point. If the drive shaft spines are in good enough shape still, replace with an OEM sprocket and use Loctite 660 (aftermarket sprocket's have too much play causing the spines to eventually shear off). If your drive shaft spines are destroyed then you'll have to replace the drive shaft, or just weld a new sprocket to the driveshaft. You'll screw up the drive shaft in doing so, but at least you'll be able to go through one more front sprocket before having to replace the drive shaft.

The cost to have the drive shaft replaced by the dealer should run you about $800+
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:46 AM   #4895
tele-steve
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: The Peoples Republic- Rocky Mountain Edition
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Thanks for the heads up. The bike is currently in a friends garage in Salt Lake City and I wont have time to drive out and pick it up for another couple of weeks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTCOliverNorth View Post
Did you check the front sprocket spines to see if they stripped out? I had the exact same experience and the cause was an aftermarket front sprocket's spines giving out and the grinding noise was my driveshaft spinning free in the Center of the sprocket.

You have two options at this point. If the drive shaft spines are in good enough shape still, replace with an OEM sprocket and use Loctite 660 (aftermarket sprocket's have too much play causing the spines to eventually shear off). If your drive shaft spines are destroyed then you'll have to replace the drive shaft, or just weld a new sprocket to the driveshaft. You'll screw up the drive shaft in doing so, but at least you'll be able to go through one more front sprocket before having to replace the drive shaft.

The cost to have the drive shaft replaced by the dealer should run you about $800+
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Old 07-02-2013, 10:15 AM   #4896
Mr F
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Oddometer: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by tele-steve View Post
My X had a catastrophic failure somewhere in the transmission. I was 8 days and 2000 miles into a backcountry ride headed towards home last week when the motor rpms spike and I thought I busted my chain.
Looking down, I see chain is still intact, but the bike wont go anywhere. I can flip through the gears, and all I can do is make the grinding noise in the case go faster. Even when in neutral and coasting (which I had to for about 6 miles), the sound is a bit brutal.
There is no way to find out the problem until I can get the engine out of the bike and crack the case. Has anyone done this themselves? Any special tools I might need to buy? I imagine the dealer is going to hit me for at least $3k if I take it to them, so I'm looking to get elbow deep myself.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-tele

Sent you a PM
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:27 PM   #4897
LTCOliverNorth
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Location: Seattle, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tele-steve View Post
Thanks for the heads up. The bike is currently in a friends garage in Salt Lake City and I wont have time to drive out and pick it up for another couple of weeks.
Keep us posted, I'm curious to know if it was another driveshaft/spline stripping issue.
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:35 AM   #4898
jjmead1
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lakewood, CO
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With increasing frequency I am having starting issues. It is when I first start the bike. The bike is garage kept, temperatures are 60 degrees F. Start bike and it fires fine, runs ten seconds stops. Repeat. After three or four attempts at starting I use the throttle to keep it running, this is not always successful either. I am also noticing a gas smell at red lights. I do not notice this smell when I start the bike or when it sits. I also get a bit of back fire when throttling down from speed. Otherwise the bike is running great, getting about 70 MPG very consistently ( I live at 5,500 feet and run premium )

I assume the bike is running rich and the issue is the throttle position sensor? I am hoping it is not a fuel pump issue. But I am admittedly terrible at diagnosis.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:11 AM   #4899
tbarstow
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Viva Lost Wages!
Oddometer: 3,152
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmead1 View Post
With increasing frequency I am having starting issues. It is when I first start the bike. The bike is garage kept, temperatures are 60 degrees F. Start bike and it fires fine, runs ten seconds stops. Repeat. After three or four attempts at starting I use the throttle to keep it running, this is not always successful either. I am also noticing a gas smell at red lights. I do not notice this smell when I start the bike or when it sits. I also get a bit of back fire when throttling down from speed. Otherwise the bike is running great, getting about 70 MPG very consistently ( I live at 5,500 feet and run premium )

I assume the bike is running rich and the issue is the throttle position sensor? I am hoping it is not a fuel pump issue. But I am admittedly terrible at diagnosis.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would start with checking your battery. If you measure less than 13 volts between the terminals, it is time to replace it. The next step would he cleaning the fuel injector and checking for an exhaust leak. Follow up with a valve check/adjustment.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:27 AM   #4900
jjmead1
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Joined: Sep 2010
Location: Lakewood, CO
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Thanks for the prompt response.
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Old 07-03-2013, 07:41 AM   #4901
khpossum
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Colorado
Oddometer: 466
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmead1 View Post
With increasing frequency I am having starting issues. It is when I first start the bike. The bike is garage kept, temperatures are 60 degrees F. Start bike and it fires fine, runs ten seconds stops. Repeat. After three or four attempts at starting I use the throttle to keep it running, this is not always successful either. I am also noticing a gas smell at red lights. I do not notice this smell when I start the bike or when it sits. I also get a bit of back fire when throttling down from speed. Otherwise the bike is running great, getting about 70 MPG very consistently ( I live at 5,500 feet and run premium )

I assume the bike is running rich and the issue is the throttle position sensor? I am hoping it is not a fuel pump issue. But I am admittedly terrible at diagnosis.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Check http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=483596&page=1 , especially post 18 and 26

Cleaning the idle air controller is what did it for me.

KP
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:13 AM   #4902
jabroka
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Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Oddometer: 338
Hey guys.. maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

I'll be receiving the TT rallye fairing kit in a few weeks.
I searched all the known to me threads ( this one, + g650x farkles + the merged threadfest) and couldn't find anything on the cable extension to relocate the gauges with the TT kit.

I know I can split each cable and solder a few inches of new one, but I was wondering if there is any tidier solution to it, for example, getting the same socket/plug the gauges and wiring has and make a plug&play extension..

Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:25 PM   #4903
snooker
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: Loveland, Colorado
Oddometer: 1,406
Quote:
Originally Posted by tele-steve View Post
.... until I can get the engine out of the bike and crack the case. Has anyone done this themselves? Any special tools I might need to buy? I imagine the dealer is going to hit me for at least $3k if I take it to them, so I'm looking to get elbow deep myself.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

-tele
Tim? don't you have pics or your ordeal? I can't remember if you did it yourself...
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Old 07-05-2013, 03:46 PM   #4904
tbarstow
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Viva Lost Wages!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snooker View Post
Tim? don't you have pics or your ordeal? I can't remember if you did it yourself...
I am still fighting BMW on this one.

It doesn't appear to be that bad of a job to do if you have the time and space.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:21 PM   #4905
SteveDennehy
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Pretoria, South Africa
Oddometer: 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroka View Post
Hey guys.. maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

I'll be receiving the TT rallye fairing kit in a few weeks.
I searched all the known to me threads ( this one, + g650x farkles + the merged threadfest) and couldn't find anything on the cable extension to relocate the gauges with the TT kit.

I know I can split each cable and solder a few inches of new one, but I was wondering if there is any tidier solution to it, for example, getting the same socket/plug the gauges and wiring has and make a plug&play extension..

Thanks!
Not to dampen your obvious enthusiasm, but I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for the TT fairing to arrive. I ordered mine in April and am still waiting, with no delivery date in sight yet. I am just a tiny bit frustrated with Touratech right now.....

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