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Old 01-12-2011, 08:25 AM   #31
redpillar
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Only when you suck the tank dry. Otherwise it is plug and play. Use a translucent fuel line so you can see the fuel pumping through.
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #32
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I have been looking at the Acerbis tank on the KLX300 I bought last summer wondering how much of that fuel is not usable. So, without the pump, how much gas is not usable?
I haven't run it anywhere near empty yet. Typically 100 miles, then refuel.
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:02 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DADODIRT View Post
I have been looking at the Acerbis tank on the KLX300 I bought last summer wondering how much of that fuel is not usable. So, without the pump, how much gas is not usable?
I haven't run it anywhere near empty yet. Typically 100 miles, then refuel.
Here's an excerpt from my post from the main KLX250 post on this forum about the Acerbis tank. And by posting this, I'm not dissin' the impressive efforts made by those on this post who have done some excellent work to guarantee full use of all the fuel in this tank.

Excerpt:
It's not correct on the gallon remaining in the Acerbis when the reserve runs out. On pavement you can run out with about .4 of a gallon where the bike is running down the highway and remaining level. Off road where the bike is moving around a good bit more, it leaves slightly less in the tank, but I couldn't qualify exactly how much more. I could just tell the level was lower in the wings before adding gas. I ran mine around my home area on pavement to find the worst case scenario, so I'd know what to rely on in the field as far as capacity. Even when the reserve ran out, I was surprised to find how easy it was to lean and slosh the fuel from the wings into the sump where the petcock is located. And as long as you don't get stupid or do wheelies, you can run a good bit further on what you can slosh into the sump. I can't see there being more than a few ounces in the wings when you slosh out every bit under reasonable circumstance.

So, basically you have about 3.3 gallons on normal and reserve under smooth driving conditions...probably about 3.5 under off road conditions...and another .2 gallon if you absolutely need just a little more fuel under the worst conditions. Frankly I like it because it's like having a small second reserve under extreme conditions if needed. I actually take my KLX out west to all kinds of remote riding venues, and I absolutely love the tank's capacity, rad protection, and low fuel carrying center of gravity.
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:11 PM   #34
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Yes, I agree with TNC on this. This mod is not an absolute necessity by any means, it just makes it easier to access the fuel. I hate the idea of running my bike out of fuel, especially when out in the woods. Even withthe stock tank I always ran the bike on the reserve side so this wouildn't happen. I just keep an eye on my odometer. The pump gives me another 20 or 30 KM of riding without stopping to do the slosh thing maybe more. I like that and don't mind having the pump do the work for me. The other part of it was that I couldn't use the petcock that came withthe tank because it fouls the choke so I had to make my own. The pump is just the next step.
The radiator protection and lower center of gravity are major improvements over the clark and IMS. in my opinion
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:36 PM   #35
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a little unexpected

hmmmmmm..... so i got one of the small mikuni pumps (the rectangular style 14 litres per min) and got it all hooked up to find it worked a little too well lol. The pump is stronger than the float valve and fuel shot straight out the carb overflow

A bit surprising as its a brand new mikuni carb as well. maybe i can find a way to restrict the vacuum line running to the pump??

i'm also thinking the float valve does not seem to close with very much strength compared to my last carb (xr650r stock vs. mikuni TM40 pumper) as i can actually blow hard enough on the vent tube (great way to prime the system!) that the carb will overflow. definitly not possible with the stock one.

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Old 01-23-2011, 06:58 PM   #36
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If you have a look at the first page of this thread, the OP says that he had a Mikuni pump and it was no good. He doesn't say what was wrong except that it was made for a two stoke motor, but he bought an arctic cat pump and for a 4 stroke and it worked.
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:20 PM   #37
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D'oh! i'll have to get my hands on the arctic cat pump thanks for pointing that our red pillar
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:21 AM   #38
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So i got my arctic cat pump in this week, tried it and it was a bit better than the rectangular mikuni pump but still was able to force fuel past the carbs float valve.

I did install a tube from the petcock to the low side of my tank and this should help me get at most of the fuel as it creates a siphon into the carb but I worry about running lean towards the end of the tank as the flow slows down.

I certainly don't want to discourage anyone from trying this, and should note i'm trying to apply it to a xr650r so there seems to be differences between these bikes that i'm not accounting for. I'll probably go back to the drawing board on this at a later time and try to sort it out.

I'm all ears for suggestions here
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:27 PM   #39
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What make carb are you using? Perhaps you could stick a vacuum gauge on the hose and see if it is excessive. There is probably a big difference between the 650 and the 250. I haven't heard of anyone having that problem with the KLX.
Where is the vacuum hose connected?
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:41 PM   #40
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Hey guys.. I find this very interesting.... Wonder if it would work on the KLR with the IMS tank. Lots of fuel in the "WINGS"..... Inquireing minds want to know...


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Old 02-09-2011, 11:51 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpillar View Post
What make carb are you using? Perhaps you could stick a vacuum gauge on the hose and see if it is excessive. There is probably a big difference between the 650 and the 250. I haven't heard of anyone having that problem with the KLX.
Where is the vacuum hose connected?
i think you may be onto something there red. I've tried a few things to reduce the vacuum effect on the pump. Like using a long vacuum line, and splicing in a section of smaller diameter line as well thinking this may help. Your right a vacuum gauge or some method of measuring things is going be needed reduce headaches. Maybe i can rig something up in the garage to test flow rates out of the pump or the amount of psi the pump produces or something. Lifting a column of water comes to mind.

i've got a mikuni TM40 carb, this has a barb for vacuum operated things which is normally left capped off on the xr.

This is beginning to feel less like tinkering and more like science project lol

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Old 02-10-2011, 12:18 AM   #42
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Have you checked all your O rings and seat of the carb ? your other option is run a 640 adventure pump (80.00ish) set up it doesnt overflow a 39 fcr or a mikuni bst 40mm.. btw is your petcock underneath your carb inlet and why are you doing it on a 650r?.. how are you powering your pump?? the lc4 motor powers from a small outlet just behind the piston on the air inlet part of the head near the airbox..
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Old 02-10-2011, 10:41 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
Have you checked all your O rings and seat of the carb ? your other option is run a 640 adventure pump (80.00ish) set up it doesnt overflow a 39 fcr or a mikuni bst 40mm.. btw is your petcock underneath your carb inlet and why are you doing it on a 650r?.. how are you powering your pump?? the lc4 motor powers from a small outlet just behind the piston on the air inlet part of the head near the airbox..
the petcock is located above the carb inlet, the problem is that the left side of the tank is separated from the right (petcock) side of the tank because of the channel for the frame.

I've installed a tube from the petcock to the left side of my tank much like the system the op describes. This should help me get at most of the fuel as it creates a siphon through the petcock into the carb. I worry about running lean towards the end of the tank as the flow slows down so would like to add a pump.

the pump is powered by an outlet similar to what you describe on the lc4

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Old 02-10-2011, 08:25 PM   #44
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got a vacuum gauge today....its actually a vacuum/pressure gauge and used to test fuel pump problems so we may be onto something here :)

some bench tests showed the arctic cat fuel pump was pushing fuel at about 7 psi at idle with the setup that was overflowing my carb. I'll see if theres a spec on fuel pressure for my carb and tailor things to that.

increasing the length of vacuum line to about 4ft reduced fuel pressure to about 4 psi.

or something like this maybe fuel pressure regulator

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Old 02-10-2011, 08:58 PM   #45
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Your problem is with your needle and seat. Your carb is set up for gravity feed so it has a larger seat orifice, the larger opening gives more surface area for the fuel pump to push against thus overriding your float. Switching to a smaller orifice seat should solve your problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by EnDreamin View Post
got a vacuum gauge today....its actually a vacuum/pressure gauge and used to test fuel pump problems so we may be onto something here :)

some bench tests showed the arctic cat fuel pump was pushing fuel at about 7 psi at idle with the setup that was overflowing my carb. I'll see if theres a spec on fuel pressure for my carb and tailor things to that.

increasing the length of vacuum line to about 4ft reduced fuel pressure to about 4 psi.

or something like this maybe fuel pressure regulator
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