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Old 02-11-2011, 12:59 PM   #46
JIPPERR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svr700 View Post
Your problem is with your needle and seat. Your carb is set up for gravity feed so it has a larger seat orifice, the larger opening gives more surface area for the fuel pump to push against thus overriding your float. Switching to a smaller orifice seat should solve your problem.
Thats a pretty ideal solution as it adds a minimum of new moving parts, and a smaller float valve is available for my carb for $30ish. But....i found a fuel pressure regulator at the local autoshop ($20ish) so i'm gonna start with that, see if it works and how long it takes before it breaks.
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Old 02-14-2011, 08:41 AM   #47
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The pressure regulator seems to be working, had the bike out all day yesterday and no problems. Can adjust it low enough that the bike dies from lack of fuel or high enough to flood the carb, right in the middle seems to work pretty good

Still have yet to run the whole tank through to see how well it works in the lower portion. Also, I decided to use the rectangular Mikuni fuel pump as its rebuildable and i had a bracket made for it.
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Old 02-14-2011, 05:45 PM   #48
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Great glad it worked out for you.
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Old 02-15-2011, 11:19 PM   #49
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Had the bike out today running off the bottom quarter of the tank with no problems.

One note the regulator seems to have a short break in period and i had to raise the outgoing pressure between my first day and second day riding with it. Basically turn it up until the carb over-flows then back it off by one position, i'll keep checking it until its settled down then maybe put a zip-tie or something so it can't be adjusted accidentally.
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:30 AM   #50
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I am seriously considering using the Acerbis tank on my 09 KLX250S, but have a couple questions first.

I would rather not use a fuel pump, to keep things simple.
Can I just run a T inside the tank, and run lines down into the bottom of each wing? Instead of it pulling fuel from the middle of the tank?
Or, will the stock system not be able to pull the fuel up out of the wings?
Is that the reason for the fuel pump being used?

If I have to end up using a fuel pump, it seems there is no adjustments needed?
I know it runs off a vacuum, but it just seems odd that its the right amount of pressure, and not feeding too much, or too little fuel to the carb.

Also, do I just put a T fitting on the line coming from the vacuum line on the engine to power the pump?
Wasnt sure how that tied into the stock system.

Thanks
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:48 PM   #51
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After researching some more, I think I will just take the smog stuff completely off, really no need for it on there.
So I will just run the fuel pump off the vacuum line from the carb.
Seems its best to go ahead and do the pump, I found them for $28 so what the heck, it will be worth getting every bit of fuel I can out of the tank.
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:08 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by jtice View Post
I would rather not use a fuel pump, to keep things simple.
Can I just run a T inside the tank, and run lines down into the bottom of each wing?
I think that you'd find your fuel flow become excessively slow towards the bottom of the tank if you run without a pump.
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:51 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svr700 View Post
Your problem is with your needle and seat. Your carb is set up for gravity feed so it has a larger seat orifice, the larger opening gives more surface area for the fuel pump to push against thus overriding your float. Switching to a smaller orifice seat should solve your problem.
Learn something new every day, maybe. After installing my Acerbis/Actic Cat pump setup on my KLX last fall, I only had time to run through 1 tank before winter set in. I was perplexed to see a large drop in my MPG for the tankful, with the only change to the bike at that time being the different tank and pump. After following this thread, it just popped into my head that even though everything looked good while I was looking over the installation at idle, when riding at higher RPM the pump was probably just strong enough to push too much fuel into the float and it was likely slowly overflowing as I rode. Thus, resulting in a significant decrease in MPG.

I have the stock Keihin CVK on my KLX, but it's a 351 which may have a bit more vacuum when running than stock. Keeping the pump, my options appear to be either get some type of pressure regulator in the fuel line, or find a smaller float needle seat. Anyone know if such a smaller seat is available for the CVK? If so, is there any way to know what size is best to use, or is it just trial and error to figure it out?
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:17 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Earthscape View Post
Thanks to redpillar's instructions, I did the fuel pump and it seems to work well. I did one small modification though, I had a local shop make me this:



It can be used with or without the fuel pump, and allows me to use the stock 250S peckcock, and still have "ON" and "RES" with the Acerbis tank. With the pump, the fuel line inside the tank with the "T" is connected to the tube on the plate that sticks up (connected to "RES" on the petcock), and the other tube that is flush with the plate acts as the "ON". So when no more fuel sloshes into the pocket, I switch to reserve and then the pump takes the fuel from the lowest part of the wings. Without a fuel pump, I can put a short hose on the tube that sticks into the tank from the plate, and that is the "ON" position (length of the hose determines the amount of reserve capacity), and the side that has no tube inside the tank, is the reserve, which will flow fuel until no more sloshes from the wings into the pocket. Sounds confusing, I know, but I really wanted to keep my reserve and stock petcock . It was a little tight because there's a lot of tubing near the tank/petcock, but it does fit, and clears the choke no problem.

some mods I had to do to make it work:
- had to mount the petcock on the other side of the frame tab with some washers as spacers because the pocket on the Acerbis tank is directly behind it, and there needed to be more room to run the lines off the back of the petcock. To do this I installed the petcock bolts from the back side.

- had to enlarge the hole in the bottom of the Acerbis tank to allow for the two tubes instead of one:



Used some gasket material and fuel resistant gasket sealer to mount the plate to the tank:



Finshed job, you can see the petcock on the outside of the frame:



This is what I used to have the local shop make it, and they did a really good job:



The welding was more expensive than I was hoping, but, what the heck, it works. Acerbis really could have done something like this to save the hassle. I'd guess that more of those 3.7 gallon tanks are being sold for the 250S than were ever sold for the 300.

Anyway, big thanks to redpillar for posting the stuff for the fuel pump.
One other possibility for this would be to make the tubes double, eliminate the T on the lines, run one line to one side at regular setting and one tube to the other side for reserve if a huge reserve wasn't needed.

I think this would be the best set up for those in desert or really wide open riding where fuel might be a hundred miles between. In areas where fuel location isn't a problem and the tank is just for extended riding it would make sense to have one line draw all the left side dry and the other line draw the right side dry.

Just some thought that someone has probably had and may not be worth poo (as Jeremy on Top Gear would say), but there it is...
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:15 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by markk53 View Post
One other possibility for this would be to make the tubes double, eliminate the T on the lines, run one line to one side at regular setting and one tube to the other side for reserve if a huge reserve wasn't needed.
Yes, that is an option also. If anyone tries that, just be aware that the fuel that's in the pocket will not be usable in that case. That was the reason I had one tube made flush, so that every bit of fuel in the pocket could be used.
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:58 PM   #56
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Good point, I guess the T is still needed one way or the other...
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:24 PM   #57
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Excellent ideas!!
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:36 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthscape View Post
.....my options appear to be either get some type of pressure regulator in the fuel line, or find a smaller float needle seat. Anyone know if such a smaller seat is available for the CVK? If so, is there any way to know what size is best to use, or is it just trial and error to figure it out?
an interesting alternative solution here http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=5139

this fellow is adapting a gravity fed carb to use a fuel pump. To cure flooding issues they T the fuel line after the pump and run it back to the tank (anywhere prior to the pump) with a valve to restrict the flow of fuel. This allows them to adjust the pressure applied the the float valve in the carb. pretty smart, although i think a fuel pressure regulator is still a better approach. these apply the same output pressure no matter the incoming pressure.

on that note the pressure regulator I have does sometimes push fuel through the overflow, easy fix, just need to stop and turn it all the way up then all the way down then back to its usual setting.

hope that makes sense... its getting late :)

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Old 03-07-2011, 06:09 AM   #59
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Is anyone having to limit the fuel flow from the fuel pump with the stock 250cc engines?
I have done a pipe, header, intake and rejet, but the engine is stock.

I installed the Acerbis tank last night, moded the tank like mentioned in this thread, with the T spit in the tank down into each wing.
This eliminated the reserve but thats not a big deal since you can easily see how much fuel you have.
Removed the smog system, and I used the small arctic cat fuel pump mentioned here. The bike started right up last night with no issues, reved and idled perfectly.
Dont have the bike completely back together yet, so I have not been able to give it a test ride.
But was wondering how others here have done with the stock motor.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:08 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtice View Post
Is anyone having to limit the fuel flow from the fuel pump with the stock 250cc engines?
I have done a pipe, header, intake and rejet, but the engine is stock.

I installed the Acerbis tank last night, moded the tank like mentioned in this thread, with the T spit in the tank down into each wing.
This eliminated the reserve but thats not a big deal since you can easily see how much fuel you have.
Removed the smog system, and I used the small arctic cat fuel pump mentioned here. The bike started right up last night with no issues, reved and idled perfectly.
Dont have the bike completely back together yet, so I have not been able to give it a test ride.
But was wondering how others here have done with the stock motor.
since its passing the bench test i'd recommend getting it back together and going for a rip on some wet roads, hit the same spot a few times at different revs, throttle positions etc. you should be able to see fresh fuel on the wet road as rainbow-y puddles.
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