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Old 06-17-2010, 01:44 PM   #46
meat popsicle OP
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dorkpunch has a new how-to on (one style of) LC4 forks, which includes replacing the fork seals.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=572945
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:49 AM   #47
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Hi. I have stuck rebound needle and my mechanic will take forks and repair this and also look for other issues.

CAN WE REUSE FORK SEALS IF THEY ARE NOT LEAKING YET?

Bike is 2003 LC4 enduro, 43mm WP forks. New seals is quite lot of money so I was wondering about reusing old ones...
p.s. bike has about 13k km
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failvanduck screwed with this post 07-07-2010 at 12:58 AM
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Old 07-07-2010, 01:28 AM   #48
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No need to take the fork seals off to get to the internal cartridge (where the stuck rebound needle is located). In other words, the inner and outer fork tubes (thick grey aluminum upper tube and chrome, lower inner tube) do not need to be separated to service the fork internals.

Cheers,

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Old 09-15-2010, 05:14 AM   #49
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Question oil change frequency

since this is gonna be my first post and I wasnt able to find a "Hi all - from the newbs" section, Hi all !!

Onto more serious matter. I realise that the answer to my question will probably fall into the "it depends" category, but anyways... I gather from some of the posts that time to change the oil would be before reaching 10k miles? Since one cannot really judge the condition (or can one?) it's gotta be around some mileage mark.

What's the suggestions?
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:42 AM   #50
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If you are thinking of changing the oil, change it. The more you use the bike the more the oil will degrade so a simple oil change will transform your ride.
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:07 AM   #51
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I've been changing my fork oil as often as my motor oil, which equals to 5000 kilometers. The last few times it has started to look like the forks would benefit from more frequent oil changes.

Changing fork oil is obviously important. One should also consider the procedure used in changing the fork oil. Much of the "crap" will collect to the bottom of the fork, and if you wish to get most of this stuff out before pouring new oil in, you should let the fork drain for a considerable amount of time. Pumping the cartridge and the fork legs also help in getting all the old oil out.

During the winter I've usually taken the cartridge unit out of the fork for a good cleaning. Even after a good drain, lots of dirty fork oil spills out when unscrewing the compression valve holder.

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:14 AM   #52
meat popsicle OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by failvanduck
Hi. I have stuck rebound needle and my mechanic will take forks and repair this and also look for other issues.

CAN WE REUSE FORK SEALS IF THEY ARE NOT LEAKING YET?

...
I recommend if you are doing a full fork service to replace the seals. If you don't and they don't leak then congratulations! If you don't and they do leak then you have to open them up again (don't ask me; I don't wanna talk about it ). The fork seals are relatively cheap eh, considering the cost of "another service".
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:20 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twqqis
since this is gonna be my first post and I wasnt able to find a "Hi all - from the newbs" section, Hi all !!

Onto more serious matter. I realise that the answer to my question will probably fall into the "it depends" category, but anyways... I gather from some of the posts that time to change the oil would be before reaching 10k miles? Since one cannot really judge the condition (or can one?) ...
Oi twggis! Welcome, and I hope you find everything you are looking for on ADV.

tseta already gave you a good answer, but if you do want to "judge" your oil you would need to take a sample and send it out for testing. There are motor oil testing labs in the US (and probably Europe), but I don't know about everywhere else. And I don't know if any of them test the hydraulic properties of suspension fluids, and I am guessing the "Viscosity Index" would be an important test.
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Old 07-02-2011, 10:23 AM   #54
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43 mm kits

Ok .. has anyone come across good 43mm kits with all seals and bushings lately?
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:33 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
Ok .. has anyone come across good 43mm kits with all seals and bushings lately?
Works, everyone,
You could try MX Tech and see what they can put together for you.

http://www.mx-tech.com/

or

https://www.enduroeng.com/ProductDet...CBC-1276719311

Last time I spoke to Z-dog at Infinity Machine he indicated that several brands of fork seals were available but that WP seals were the longest lasting.

I put 20K miles on a set of WP fork seals going RTW through Russia and Mongolia using short fork boots for extra protection and grease inside the wiper seals to start out.The fork oil went the same distance without a change.

I used Infinity's subtanks and kept the air well bled off in the rough stuff(3-4 times a day). I felt the forks worked as well at the end of my trip as at the beginning.

http://www.infinitymachineanddesign.com/

When I pulled everything apart after returning home, the bushing were in great shape and were reusable, in fact all the interals were OK, the shims were a little cupped, especially the mid valve, but they were put back in service.

Running on the ATV trails around northern Wisconsin everything is working fine after an oil/seal change.

The rear shock was redone for Guatemala when it leaked cause I compressed it in sub zero weather(That really isn't a good idea but it probably would have failed me on the road somewhere in Mexico).

I think the rear shock is much more fragile than the forks and should have an oil change every 15K miles.

I carry my old seals as spares as well as the rebuild guts of the rear shock. If you have one done ask for your old parts if you plan to travel.

Much of this has been covered in old threads but I repeat for those who don't know.
bill
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:57 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by meat popsicle View Post
...

Now what about this rebound needle business?

Based on what the suspension tuners both said, the rebound needle is the most vulnerable part of these forks. There is no fork oil inside the inner assembly, unless you poured it in the wrong place… then you might notice oil weeping out of your rebound clicker Anyways, the rebound assembly is not bathed in oil so the bore (made out of plain steel) can and will rust as moisture makes its way inside your forks. This will render it non-adjusting and eventually might interfere with the fork’s rebound. If for no other reason, this is why you must service your forks annually!



You can check to see if yours have rusted by pressing on the rebound adjustment rod before removing it from the inner assembly. The rod should extend a bit (less than ¼”) out of the inner assembly when properly seated on the rebound needle down yonder, and if you push on it you should feel the rebound needle’s spring. There's my lil' rod sticking out in the picture above! If not then the needle is likely frozen in the bore and will need further attention.

...
Just did a fork oil change and noted that both rebound adjustment rods not springing so I assume both rebound needle springs are shot. I can't deal with them right now (getting ready for a ride this weekend) so what should I expect if the rebound needle springs are shot?

I am guessing that the rebound needle will be loose and I should close (tighten?) the rebound adjuster to compensate - anyone have any tips?
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:16 AM   #57
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if your replacing your seals, i would HIGHLY recommend the SKF fork seals and wipers. they are awesome and really smooth things out, and do not leak. My suspension guys had tried the Race Tech and WP seals but mine kept weeping after a few rides. with the SKF's in i haven't seen a drop of oil since. they aren't cheap, but neither is your time pulling and working your forks every month or so...

laramie
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Old 08-03-2011, 05:24 PM   #58
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Just in case anyone wondered I am still wondering what influence weak or failed rebound needle springs will have on my forks, and if there is a way to compensate. I guess that cranking them down (closed) might help, but I haven't tried anything yet (this weekend is a big ride )
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Old 08-04-2011, 12:27 PM   #59
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Meat, I had a similar experience with the thin aluminum tube sticking down. In my case, corrosion was to blame, but the spring itself was not totally shot yet. I managed to salvage all the parts and make things work out again by disassembling the components and by cleaning and lubricating them well. Especially the needle itself seemed to easily get stuck inside the rebound tap. I changed the needle o-ring as well. Perhaps also some light honing (with some fine sandpaper?) on the inside of the needle seat will help smooth any corrosion out also. Then the needle action (and thus the aluminum tube's movement) should be nice and smooth again.

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:43 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
Meat, I had a similar experience with the thin aluminum tube sticking down. In my case, corrosion was to blame, but the spring itself was not totally shot yet. I managed to salvage all the parts and make things work out again by disassembling the components and by cleaning and lubricating them well. Especially the needle itself seemed to easily get stuck inside the rebound tap. I changed the needle o-ring as well. Perhaps also some light honing (with some fine sandpaper?) on the inside of the needle seat will help smooth any corrosion out also. Then the needle action (and thus the aluminum tube's movement) should be nice and smooth again.

Cheers,

Tseta
Thanks Tseta, that was last time to make them last a while longer... I forgot and didn't plan on replacing them this time, but knew the fork oil had to be changed before a big weekend ride. I'll crank down the rebound to see if that helps compensate for the spring not springing.
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