KLR250 thread

[Outwardbound]

OK thanks. I'm on it.

[Just GO!]

My 250 used to never leak gas. I could leave the petcock on indefinately and it would not leak.

Now, however, it leaks from the float bowl drain tube if I leave the petcock on. I'm forgetful and I hate to waste gasoline.

After reading the last few posts concerning this issue I have deduced that...

No. 1..... I should remove the float bowl and check/clean the valve and valve seats.

No. 2..... Check/adjust the float height.



If everything is OK I should be able to leave the petcock "on" and have no leaking problems.....correct?

[Just GO!]

It was the float valve...............nevermind...

[3DChief]

Okay, back to the valve adjustment again. 1999 KLR 250, about 7k miles on it, I bought it brand new and has been very well cared for. I have tried to adjust the valves about 10 times now and can't get it right. There is a bunch of play in the rockers at TDC. I'm not talking about side to side play, I'm talking about up and down a considerable amount. Looking at the bearing surfaces of the rockers and the cams, all look just fine, no abnormal wear and look brand new. Also, when I do adjust them and think they are set correctly (between .008 and .009 thousandths), then cycle the motor through a couple of revolutions and back to TDC, they are out of adjustment again. I have tried to adjust them statically, pushed all the way up, and pressed all the way down, none of these work. What the hell am I doing wrong? I have adjusted valves on my other bikes no problem, but this one is pissing me off! I am about ready to light it on fire and push it off a cliff! Help please!!!

[plodalong]

Hi folks, Looking at buying a 2000 klr250 with 37000 klm (23000miles) on it. looks like its had a sheltered life as she's pretty origional. Not knowing any thing about them, is there anything to look for in this model (known problems ect) and what sort of miles can one expect before major engine work is nessecary. I know this depends on how it was ridden, some noobs could kill any bike in 2000miles but assuming well maintained and not abused.

Thanks in advance.

Bruce

[8gv]

Originally Posted by 3DChief

Okay, back to the valve adjustment again. 1999 KLR 250, about 7k miles on it, I bought it brand new and has been very well cared for. I have tried to adjust the valves about 10 times now and can't get it right. There is a bunch of play in the rockers at TDC. I'm not talking about side to side play, I'm talking about up and down a considerable amount. Looking at the bearing surfaces of the rockers and the cams, all look just fine, no abnormal wear and look brand new. Also, when I do adjust them and think they are set correctly (between .008 and .009 thousandths), then cycle the motor through a couple of revolutions and back to TDC, they are out of adjustment again. I have tried to adjust them statically, pushed all the way up, and pressed all the way down, none of these work. What the hell am I doing wrong? I have adjusted valves on my other bikes no problem, but this one is pissing me off! I am about ready to light it on fire and push it off a cliff! Help please!!!

I have done my valve adjustment twice with no issues. Following the directions that I pulled off the KLR 250 web site, I almost messed up this time. You have to rotate the flywheel counterclockwise about 1/3 of a turn after you see the intake valves open and close. At that point you'll see the timing mark in the hole above the flywheel. What I did wrong was to turn it clockwise and nothing made sense.

[3DChief]

8GV,

Yep, found out that was my problem too! Let it sit for a few days and went back to try again, starting from the beginning and reading each step. Set them no problem first try! Obviously, clockwise does something to the valves that doesn't allow them to be set, lesson learned and that part is highlighted in the instructions now!

Tim

[Brash1]

Is there a aftermarket (larger) tank for a 1988 klr 250? would love to get more mileage between fill-ups. Read somewhere someone had mounted a 650 designed tank on one.

[Drizzt]

I'm part of the klr group now, I just bought a kinda rough used one for 500 dollars. According to the stock gauge the bike has 12k miles, but from the looks of it 90 percent offroad.

The tank is a white aftermarket oversized, I'll check out the name on it tomorrow while I work on it more.

I just had a quick question- is the front brake on these easy to operate? Right now it is REALLY hard to pull the lever and get it to stop. I'm going to bleed the brakes and see if that helps.. I"ll also check out the condition of the pads. I bought the bike for my girlfriend, and right now it's just unsafe how difficult it is to stop. Thanks for any advice!

[richmo1]

Originally Posted by Drizzt

I just had a quick question- is the front brake on these easy to operate? Right now it is REALLY hard to pull the lever and get it to stop. I'm going to bleed the brakes and see if that helps.. I"ll also check out the condition of the pads. I bought the bike for my girlfriend, and right now it's just unsafe how difficult it is to stop. Thanks for any advice!

Drizzt,
The front brake on my GF's KLR250 is not hard to pull in at all, but it does NOT have good stopping power. I bled the brakes and checked out the shoes (they looked fine). The front forks also dive pretty seriously when squeezing hard.
richmo1

[Brash1]

Drizzt,
My 88 KLR front brakes have a nice easy pull with decent stopping power. You better dig in and look for a problem. I'd like to find me another cheap deal on a KLR, get her running and operating good, then Enjoy:)

[ECDLTF]

I live south of you. I have a 2000 KLR250 that I've been riding on and off as I haven't had much time to ride. I still need to get my license. I might take the Team Arizona course. I read your and the others posts on the Tucson forum, and it sounds like you guys have gone on some nice rides. You can check out the following sites for your new to you KLR250:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/KLR250/

http://home.earthlink.net/%7Eklr250i...ange/index.htm

http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?board=76.0

http://www.klr650.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=41

http://klr250.blogspot.com/

http://www.privydigger.com/klr250.htm

You should be able to get an answer from the dedicated KLR250 sites and the Yahoo KLR250 user group. Good luck!

Originally Posted by Drizzt

I'm part of the klr group now, I just bought a kinda rough used one for 500 dollars. According to the stock gauge the bike has 12k miles, but from the looks of it 90 percent offroad.

The tank is a white aftermarket oversized, I'll check out the name on it tomorrow while I work on it more.

I just had a quick question- is the front brake on these easy to operate? Right now it is REALLY hard to pull the lever and get it to stop. I'm going to bleed the brakes and see if that helps.. I"ll also check out the condition of the pads. I bought the bike for my girlfriend, and right now it's just unsafe how difficult it is to stop. Thanks for any advice!

[sjc56]

I just traded a VT500 Ascot for this 86 250 with 8k on it. Its hard to start, brakes stick but not bad shape, no dents, plastic all there. I was thinking of painting it green to match my 01 650.

[gamehunter2007]

Traded my leaky old jon boat and a 1975 johnson 9.9 outboard for this 1994 KLR250.

[henrymartin]

Originally Posted by sjc56

I just traded a VT500 Ascot for this 86 250 with 8k on it. Its hard to start, brakes stick but not bad shape, no dents, plastic all there. I was thinking of painting it green to match my 01 650.

If you end up painting the plastics, make sure to use some sort of adhesion promoter. If you go the rattle-can route, the duplicolor adhesion promoter (clear primer) works great. Some people go the Krylon Fusion route, but (in my experience) it is not as durable if you leave it out a lot. Did my daughter's Jeep with Krylon and it started fading/chipping after the first summer in the sun.
Did Givi cases with adhesion promoter and automotive enamel topcoated with clear (rattle can all) and it is holding up rather well. For my own KLR 250 project I ended up with black spray-on truck bed liner (rattle can) and it is much tougher than straight paint.