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Old 01-03-2011, 07:19 AM   #181
Airvent
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Location: Oxford, Connecticut
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Chains should always be on the looser end of adjustment. Less wear but more chain slap noise. I always had a slight grinding with mine, IIRC the bottom slider would wear through and cause the noise. Also i bought a heavy duty o-ring chain which was too wide for the frame. I had to grind a small amount off of the frame for it to run without contact.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:45 AM   #182
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrymartin View Post
A quick question for you guys. Do you get chain noise?

Only asking because my newly-put-together KLR 250 is fine (except the 10F degree starting), but when I run her on the street, I can hear the chain (drive, not cam) and it sounds almost like it is grinding against something. I already adjusted the chain as tight as I feel comfortable, but it still sounds that way. The front sprocket has a little slack on the shaft, maybe 1/8" from dead stop, but it is tight. I doubt it is the sprocket. Teeth are good and so does appear the chain. It does not grind against frame (I replaced the frame guard thingy) and it does not grind against sprocket cover either. Just sounds like it is. I notice it mostly in low rpms and speeds above 30 mph.

Thanks
Regarding the front sprocket slack, do you mean as you turn the shaft or in and out on the shaft? My front sprocket slides in and out on the shaft. I was initially concerned about this but have found that it causes no trouble. At this point, I have declared this to be "normal".
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:02 AM   #183
henrymartin
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I replaced the bottom slider because it was worn through.

Yes, I do mean the in and out movement. Mine does not slide off completely, but seems loose, but as you report, this might be "normal" KLR engineering
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:52 PM   #184
losercharles
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Oil Window - Right side of bike

Since there isn't a dipstick to measure oil, i figure the window on right side is to serve the purpose. So if this bike is on the side stand- oil looks nearly empty. Take the bike off the stand and set upright, the oil looks to almost fill the window. Now if I start the bike, stand it upright and look at the window - looks like there is no oil. So... How the hell do you gauge this damn thing?
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:15 PM   #185
8gv
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Originally Posted by losersteve View Post
Since there isn't a dipstick to measure oil, i figure the window on right side is to serve the purpose. So if this bike is on the side stand- oil looks nearly empty. Take the bike off the stand and set upright, the oil looks to almost fill the window. Now if I start the bike, stand it upright and look at the window - looks like there is no oil. So... How the hell do you gauge this damn thing?
The owner's manual says to check it with the bike held level, after it has been off for a few minutes. Anywhere between the upper and lower edges of the slot are good. Mine uses zero oil.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:16 PM   #186
Brash1
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Sprocket set

Where's the best place to order a chain and sprocket set for my 88 klr250? Any suggestions on steel or aluminum? O-rings worth the $$$? Also needing a taillight lens.
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Old 01-05-2011, 11:03 AM   #187
8gv
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I bought one of these

I am happy with this chain.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...item3ef8ac6412
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:55 PM   #188
Brash1
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chain

Thanks 8gv. Are your sprockets steel, aluminum,combo or......? I think I'll order me one of those chains.
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Old 01-08-2011, 02:10 AM   #189
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash1 View Post
Thanks 8gv. Are your sprockets steel, aluminum,combo or......?
Not to answer for 8gv; I'm satisfied with a steel 14-tooth countershaft sprocket and a stock rear sprocket. The extra torque multiplication (vs. stock gearing) makes off-roading easier, and--with the 6th gear, highway speeds are no real problem.

My riding style and environment only; YMMV. Your bike; countershaft sprockets are affordable and easy to change (mind the chain slack); you might want to experiment and find what you like best.
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:20 PM   #190
3DChief
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automatic cam chain tensioner

Just got my part in the mail and bike is back up and running!

`99 KLR 250 with 6,800 miles. Noticed the valves getting noisy and adjusted them at 6,700 miles. Only one exhaust valve needed minor adjustment. After reassembling, I noticed the noise did not go away. The noise got increasingly worse and was on the left side of the engine. Rechecked the valves, still in specs. Pulled the automatic cam chain tensioner and rewound the spring. Put it back in and tried it again, same noise. The spring did seem kind of weak when I tried to re-tension it. Did some research and found this is a common problem, so ordered the new part. Took about 2 minutes to install and as soon as I removed the clip that holds it wound up, it snapped into place and I knew that was my problem. Started right up and is very quiet now, can't hear valve or cam chain noise at all!

I emailed Eagle Mike to see if he was interested in the old tensioner to tear apart and see if it was something he could improve on, but have not heard back from him, so I will keep it on the shelf for a little while just in case.

Tim
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:14 PM   #191
8gv
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ya but.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Not to answer for 8gv; I'm satisfied with a steel 14-tooth countershaft sprocket and a stock rear sprocket. The extra torque multiplication (vs. stock gearing) makes off-roading easier, and--with the 6th gear, highway speeds are no real problem.

My riding style and environment only; YMMV. Your bike; countershaft sprockets are affordable and easy to change (mind the chain slack); you might want to experiment and find what you like best.
That's what I was going to say!

My sproket in back is factory. The new steel 14t up front helps in the woods and still allows decent street speeds.
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:14 PM   #192
Brash1
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sprockets

How does the 14 tooth change your mpg's? Have'nt really thought about changing, I currently run a 16 tooth counter. Do you know what stock is?
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:30 PM   #193
3DChief
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Stock is 15T front/44T rear. You will see a decrease in MPG, but who cares? Still way over 50 MPG and it makes it a whole new bike, like you added 100 cc to it. Will still do 85 MPH indicated on flat ground with a little rpm to go, but the difference off road and less than freeway speeds makes it well worth it. YMMV

Change the counter sprocket to a 14T, open the air box, lose the stock air filter (buy Uni-filter foam sheet, you can get 6 air filters out of one sheet for $15), adjust your jetting, and adjust your pilot screw out 2 3/4 turns and you won't even recognize it as the same bike!

Tim
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:58 PM   #194
Brash1
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Racks

Thanks 3dchiefs, you've sold me on the sprocket set-up. I've got my bike spead out all over the basement. Doing a winter re-furb:) Lookin for some ideas on a rack for the rearThis is the old rack that I made of 1/2" emt ( broke, not beeefy enough) I will be mounting the hard box back on top and using soft bags on the sides. Any ideas? Any pics?
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Old 01-23-2011, 10:48 PM   #195
3DChief
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I would stick with the same design, looks good! However, try 5/8" cold rolled steel tubing or 3/4" square tubing instead. Mine is pretty simple with 1/8"x1" flat stock sides, 1/2" iron pipe at each end, and 5/16" crossbars. I also made a bag rack out of 3/4" square tubing that sits across the top of and bolts to tailbag rack that keeps the soft bags off the exhaust. It also has a rack over the tail light that holds a 2 gal gas can. The hard part about these bikes is the lack of good locations to bolt the rack to! Use your imagination and have fun with it!

Tim
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