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Old 01-24-2011, 07:12 AM   #196
Outwardbound
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Strongsville, OH
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I used 1" sq thinwall for the longitudinal upper mounts, and 5/8 (IIRC) emt to connect it all together. Rather than welding it together, I brazed it: much stronger because it's a low temp process. Be carefull welding/brazing emt. The cadmium plating releases nasty gasses.
Here is the frame test fit my my killer:


I used plastic cutting board top and givi-case hookup hardware. Finished prod looks like this;


I had a set of Givi E21's laying around, and the fit on pretty well. Abused them mercilessly on dualsport single track rides and they always stayed on.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:53 AM   #197
henrymartin
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Nice!!!!!
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:13 PM   #198
Brash1
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Thanks

3Dchief and outwardbound, appreciate the advice. I'll post up some pics when I get it done.
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:27 PM   #199
bennyprofane
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outwardbound View Post
I used 1" sq thinwall for the longitudinal upper mounts, and 5/8 (IIRC) emt to connect it all together. Rather than welding it together, I brazed it: much stronger because it's a low temp process. Be carefull welding/brazing emt. The cadmium plating releases nasty gasses.
Here is the frame test fit my my killer:


I used plastic cutting board top and givi-case hookup hardware. Finished prod looks like this;

Nice home built rack!
I'm in the process of getting my 250 sorted for some light touring/ commuting with a set-up that looks a lot like Brash1's. My worry with my/his arrangement is that the turn signals are largely obscured. Looks like you have a pretty nice solution. Could you provide some more pic/ info?
Cheers!

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Old 01-30-2011, 08:19 PM   #200
Moezilla
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Location: Ozarks
Oddometer: 167
Suspension links

Posted this up in Parts a while ago but got nothing...

Anybody got a set of stock links for an 05? I have a lowered bike I want to raise back up.
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:44 PM   #201
Hannda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjc56 View Post
I just traded a VT500 Ascot for this 86 250 with 8k on it. Its hard to start, brakes stick but not bad shape, no dents, plastic all there. I was thinking of painting it green to match my 01 650.
Nice looking. If it's really hard to start check the valves. Made all the difference on the one we used to have.
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Old 01-31-2011, 05:33 PM   #202
Brash1
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Agreed

Valve adjustment cleared up my hard start problem on my 88
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Old 02-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #203
Brash1
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LED lights

Changed my stock blinkers out for some LED I made up myself. Problem is they dont blink anymore. Relay? Anyone familiar with this problem?


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Old 02-03-2011, 04:54 PM   #204
bennyprofane
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@Brash1 -I've been doing a little research on LED signals and it looks like the non-blinking issue is caused by a lack resistance in the circuit. I'm far from understanding the electrical theory behind it, but the issue seems to be that the blinker relay is not being triggered because the power draw from the LED is so low that it acts as though there is a burned out bulb by not blinking (some turn signals will blink faster but the KLR goes solid). You can buy resistors on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2X-LE...Q5fAccessories

Hope that helps.

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Old 02-07-2011, 02:35 PM   #205
250senuf
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A solid state flasher (non-load dependant) will also do the trick. Stop in at your local jobber and ask. NAPA, UAP, or whomever you've got in your part of the world.
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:01 PM   #206
henrymartin
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Originally Posted by 250senuf View Post
A solid state flasher (non-load dependant) will also do the trick. Stop in at your local jobber and ask. NAPA, UAP, or whomever you've got in your part of the world.
+1

Or, match the load in the rear.

This is what happened with mine: Once LED went up front, front worked fine. Connected rear stock and rear worked, but front did nothing. Chased it up and down like crazy and got nowhere. Then I changed rear to LED and now both work like a charm. Did not change the flasher.

try it and see if this works for you by taking one of the fronts and hooking it up rear on the same side.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:45 PM   #207
Gravetter
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Is $500 plus me driving 140 miles (one-way) a decent deal for an '89 with 8,000 miles that runs but is smoking (rings, maybe)?

I was wrong about the 20,000 miles. It has 8k.

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Old 02-17-2011, 01:26 PM   #208
8gv
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Is $500 plus me driving 140 miles (one-way) a decent deal for an '89 with 20,000 that runs but is smoking (rings, maybe)?
yes...if you can wrench her yourself, otherwise no.
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Old 02-17-2011, 01:30 PM   #209
Gravetter
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yes...if you can wrench her yourself, otherwise no.

Wrench no problem. I'll be pulling the engine and giving her a good re-build before anything.
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Old 02-17-2011, 05:31 PM   #210
LoCoMatt
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Is $500 plus me driving 140 miles (one-way) a decent deal for an '89 with 20,000 that runs but is smoking (rings, maybe)?
I just sold my well running, good looking '99 with 4,500 miles for $1K. I'd probably try to talk him down some more on this one.

The market for these is not that great (at least around here anyway). The discussion usually stopped right after "why yes, it is kick start only". Never bothered me, but it seems to turn off a lot of people.
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