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Old 03-26-2012, 01:48 AM   #421
XDragRacer
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"If it ain't broke . . ."

KLR250 carb''s not as sensitive to tuning as the KLR650's, in my experience. You might adjust the fuel screw (remove anti-tamper plug, lower carb on engine side, inserst small flat-bladed screwdriver, bottom screw GENTLY and back out about 1.75 turns [EDIT: Factory service manual recommends 2.0 turns out; possibly a better starting point]); you could do the full "22-cent" mod (drill slide vacuum port to 7/64", put one # 4 washer under needle), but---wouldn't expect a great performance increase from the CVK34 carb with these mods.

Your bike; play around with it if you like; you can always restore it to stock condition; even JB-Weld the vacuum port and re-drill it if you like.

I find my stock KLR250 runs gallantly; YMMV!

XDragRacer screwed with this post 03-27-2012 at 01:16 AM
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:30 AM   #422
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truck6driver View Post
Previous owner had the vlaves done prior to the sale. Bike runs well without any noises. I might just check them for the practice though since it is apart. I was looking more for any issues with the frame, wheels and mods to the air box, carb and such.

Ray
Check the valves. He may have screwed it up. Tight is your enemy. Quiet could mean tight. Paranoid, I know, but you don't want to burn a valve.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:23 AM   #423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rube View Post
I had picked up a non-running 97 KLR250 and was having trouble with the front brakes. After a lot of trial and error I got the brakes sorted out.

As I got it I could pull the lever all the way into the bar and push the bike forward by hand. The brakes were almost worthless!

I replaced the small aftermarket master cylinder with one of proper size from a KLR650 - no change in the braking! I replaced the brake line with a braided steel line - minimal change! I cleaned the pads and disk with carb cleaner and the brakes seemed a little better. So I rode the bike.

When I rode it the brakes were scary bad! Almost no grip. I put 100 miles on it going back and forth to work one day and when I got home I saw the problem. The left fork seal was shot and weeping fork oil all over the caliper, disk and pads.

I bought new pads, fork seals and new fork wipers. I drained the very dirty looking old oil. Blew the seal out with 140 pounds of air pressure and replaced the seal and wiper. I ended up using Mobile 1 ATF to about 20 mm higher than stock level. I cut a new preload spacer 1 inch longer than stock (7.5" total) from 1" emt. Cleaned the disk, installed the new pads, bleed the brakes again and put it all back together.

I finally have some brakes that work.

I found out the hard way why the seal blew too. I removed the drain screw at the bottom of the fork without releasing the air pressure in the fork first. Mistake! A stream of oil shot 3 feet across the garage. When I checked the air pressure in the right fork it was 25 psi. I guess someone had upped the pressure in an attempt to make the forks a little more firm.

Thanks for the help,

rube
Dr650 master cylinder is a direct swap and is supposed to really improve braking, I'm shopping for one now.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:38 PM   #424
truck6driver
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Well Got to work again on the little KLR.



While pulling the sub frame found this on the rectifier plug. one of the yellow stator wire connectors is melted into the plug. WTF!!!



Should be an easy fix I hope. I just hoping that it is a loose connection. It is charging as the battery is beyond dead and had no issues running all the lights when running. I will try to pull the plug apart and repair the connector

But worst thing is when I pulled the carb. RUST!!! Damnit!
So I pulled the carb apart and cleaned it well. Drilled out the idle mixture adjustment screw plug and adjusted to the 1.75 setting as suggested
Did not have the pilot jet for the CVK but did have a 132 main jet. It had a 118 in it and a 35 pilot so for now I put the 132 in. Was going to do a 138 or 140 with a 38 or 40 pilot but just went with what I had for now. Drilled the slide and shimmed the needle 28 thousands. De snorkled the air box and will pick up a UNI filter for it this week.

Drained the tank and found rust chunks in the very bottom. Cleaned it the best I could and washed it out. Then a good dring with a heat gun. Got the paint a little hot on the bottom side. Ooops. no biggie needs repainted anyway and you cannot see it when installed. So I have the rust chunks out of the tank but there is still light surface rust in the tank.
Well I will weigh my options later. For now I will install a filter and check it often until I either repair this tank or buy a replacement. There is a NOS tank on ebay but it is the teal color so I would have to repaint it. And there is the aftermarket plastic tanks. Price of the NOS tank with repainting would be the same if not more than an aftermarket one. I just might save up for one of those since they won't rust, unless I come across a good OEM. Damn ethanol enriched fuels. That crap only attracts moisture esp. when storing a bike.

More to come.

Ray

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Old 03-26-2012, 08:52 PM   #425
8gv
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You are a brave man...

Changing the jetting and needle position on a bike that has yet to run requires more guts than I have.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:03 PM   #426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Changing the jetting and needle position on a bike that has yet to run requires more guts than I have.
You know I will take a carb apart faster than trying to do fork seals.

It has run. I have ridden it. I did not buy it without testing it out. It ran well but could tell it needed more. It had a small flat spot on accel also. So what I did should be enough to smooth out the flat spot I hope.

If it has issues when I put it back togther I can still go back andstart again and make smaller steps on the jetting but I am willing to bet I still need to go larger.

Ray
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:12 AM   #427
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Originally Posted by truck6driver View Post
Did not have the pilot jet for the CVK but did have a 132 main jet. It had a 118 in it and a 35 pilot so for now I put the 132 in. Was going to do a 138 or 140 with a 38 or 40 pilot but just went with what I had for now.
US models had 118 main jets from the factory (and 35 pilot jets (KLR250 Service Manual Supplement, p. C4)); a 132 main jet seems a big step toward fuel-richness, to me; but--your bike! Let us know how it works out.

Stock jetting on the KLR650's CVK34 does not seem excessively fuel-lean to me, but--YMMV!

BTW; Kawasaki recommends 2.0 turns out for the pilot screw on US model KLR250's, vs. the 1.75 mentioned in my post above; I'd go with 2.0 as a starting point.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:34 AM   #428
truck6driver
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I jumped that much after some research on what people are running in them. The range was 130 to 138 on the main and 38 and 40 on the pilot. I guess I am so used to owning Hondas that are always jetted way lean.
I have a 130 jet if the 132 is too rich. All I would have in it is time so I'm not too worried about it. Only takes about 30 mins to swap back (or up) if needed.
Being very close to sea level, lean is my worry. When I had my XR650L I had the jetting spot on here but if I went to the mountains and got over 4000 to 5000ft I would have to take the air box cover off so it would run right. Too bad it isn't fuel injected.

Ray
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:35 AM   #429
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Anyone have a picture of any one the aftermarket tanks on the KLR250?

Ray
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:01 AM   #430
8gv
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My tank was rusted

It was pretty bad. I used the electrolysis method to clear it out. Directions for that can be found on line. It took about four days with frequent harvesting of the rust. It now has very little discolorization and the fuel filter has zero junk in it.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:06 AM   #431
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Originally Posted by truck6driver View Post
I jumped that much after some research on what people are running in them.
Interesting; I've found very little KLR250-specific info. Would appreciate your sharing your sources.

The KLR250 remains an enigma; they must've made a jillion of 'em over 20 years or so, but . . . very little aftermarket hardware is now, or ever has been, available for the valiant little steed.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:40 AM   #432
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Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Interesting; I've found very little KLR250-specific info. Would appreciate your sharing your sources.

The KLR250 remains an enigma; they must've made a jillion of 'em over 20 years or so, but . . . very little aftermarket hardware is now, or ever has been, available for the valiant little steed.
There is a large disparity between the quantity of after market items for the KLR250 when compared to the KLX250s. I'll round up some info. for you.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:57 AM   #434
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KLR250 site...

http://home.earthlink.net/~klr250informationexchange/
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:48 PM   #435
truck6driver
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Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
a 132 main jet seems a big step toward fuel-richness, to me; but--your bike!

Opps I read what I had written down wrong. DUH!!! I was suspossed to do the main at 128 not 138. I feel stooopeeed now.

See what happens when you are sleep deprived and trying to read chicken scratch in the garage. OK I will pull the carb back off and drop the size down some.

Ray
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