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Old 09-29-2012, 03:30 AM   #721
handyman1018
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Hey, thanks that's what I needed. Not going thru another winter without something to keep the wind off my hands.



Quote:
Originally Posted by beeper View Post
$29.99 Trackside Aluminum Handguards from Cyclegear.
This pic was taken during the initial mock-up, hence the mess.


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Old 09-29-2012, 04:08 PM   #722
newcastleadam
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Location: Gainesville, Fl
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Progressing on my latest KLR Jr project, narrowed down the no spark to bad CDI. Hopefully. So....anyone have a spare? :-)

Thanks!
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86 KLR250 01 KLR685 06 K1200LT
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:09 PM   #723
1994klr250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rununix View Post
MrBob's KLR250 is now mine. I was wondering if anyone can share a list of tools you carry on your KLR for long distance rides, besides the ones provided in original toolset(unless they are just too hard to use). Please list the brands if you can. I am a beginner and just starting to stock my tool set.
Here's what I carry on the front fender of my klr250.




Inside of that front fender bag I have these items



All of the tools I carry. These tools are always on the bike. I have done two long rides, 1,600 miles and 2,300 miles and it stays put on the front fender.



1.Starting on the left a 22mm and 24mm Motion Pro aluminum tire spoons with box end wrench on the other end. The 24mm is for the rear tire nut and the 22 is for the front.
2. A nine inch tire iron
3. 3/8 drive craftsman ratchet
4. Eklind metric allen wrench set 1.5mm to 6 mm
5. Pliers
6. Electrical tape
7. Spare spark plug in red holder
8. Craftsman screwdriver, it has two phillips bits and two straight slot bits.
9. Tire gauge
10. Hose clamp
11. 5/8 spark plug socket
12. 10 mm socket
13. 6mm socket with 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor
14. 3 inch 3/8 drive extension
15. 12 mm socket
16. Small needle nose pliers
17. Clip style master link
18. Two pieces of 1/4 fuel hose with two clamps
19. Large crescent wrench
20. Small crescent wrench
21. F4 tape
22. Cotter pins
23. .032 stainless steel safety wire.
24. Plastic bag with registration, insurance, map, and spare 20 amp fuse.
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1994 KLR250, 2009 F800GS, 2006 KLX351
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:24 PM   #724
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
11. 5/8 spark plug socket
Nice kit, but . . . unless you've put in a "trick" spark plug (i.e., other than OEM size), don't you need an
18 mm spark plug socket?

(BTW, one of the few truly useful and adequate OEM tools, I found, is the apark plug socket; sized right and thin-walled enough to fit.)
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:00 PM   #725
rununix
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Tool List

[QUOTE=1994klr250;19722849]Here's what I carry on the front fender of my klr250.

Thank You! I have some shopping to do.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:21 AM   #726
1994klr250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Nice kit, but . . . unless you've put in a "trick" spark plug (i.e., other than OEM size), don't you need an
18 mm spark plug socket?

(BTW, one of the few truly useful and adequate OEM tools, I found, is the apark plug socket; sized right and thin-walled enough to fit.)
Yea I have a champion 809 ra6hc spark plug in there. When I bought the bike used 5 years ago the OEM tool kit was missing. I replaced the original NGK spark plug with the champion since it has the smaller 16mm or 5/8 hex. Much easier to get the plug out now.
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Fall ride on a KLR250 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754065

1994 KLR250, 2009 F800GS, 2006 KLX351
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:25 AM   #727
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
Yea I have a champion 809 ra6hc spark plug in there. When I bought the bike used 5 years ago the OEM tool kit was missing. I replaced the original NGK spark plug with the champion since it has the smaller 16mm or 5/8 hex. Much easier to get the plug out now.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:32 PM   #728
rununix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
Here's what I carry on the front fender of my klr250.
In your tool package you carry 20 amp car fuse. Did you swap fuse assembly for something else and what is it(model & where to buy)?

Also, can anybody tell me what fuse type to buy for my 2000 KLR 250? I suppose I can unscrew the panel, but I am lazy.
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:15 PM   #729
newcastleadam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rununix View Post
Also, can anybody tell me what fuse type to buy for my 2000 KLR 250? I suppose I can unscrew the panel, but I am lazy.
20 amp AGC
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86 KLR250 01 KLR685 06 K1200LT
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:42 AM   #730
MotoJ
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Location: Baltimore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
Yea I have a champion 809 ra6hc spark plug in there. When I bought the bike used 5 years ago the OEM tool kit was missing. I replaced the original NGK spark plug with the champion since it has the smaller 16mm or 5/8 hex. Much easier to get the plug out now.
This is great info!
Nice kit, too. It looks like I'm missing some items!

What's your next trip going to be on the mighty KLR Jr? I love reading the ride reports....
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Old 10-05-2012, 03:51 AM   #731
XDragRacer
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Bill Blue TM33 Pumper Carb

Not mine, but from another thread; very fresh TM33 pumper carb, honed by Bill Blue to 34 mm venturi, available:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=13852

Would jump on this with both feet, if I needed a carb for a KLR250. Price is right (reduced to $ 250 shipped, much less than an OEM carb brings, I'd imagine).
Quote:
I have a Mikuni Tm33 bored to 34 carb modified by Bill Blue bandbcyclerestoration. Fits klx 250, 300, 331, 340, 351 although not listed it is a direst replacement for the older KLR 250. I put it on my 1987 KLR250 rode about two blocks and my rocker arm adjustment nut came out snapped my timing chain and put a hole in the engine case so the bikes not getting fixed. Has 37.5 pilot and 137.5 main jet. Literally has less than a 1/2 mile on it.
Regrets if posted in improper forum; thought this extraordinary part and opportunity might be granted some space here.

--------------------

EDIT: Overtaken by events; carb sold!

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Old 10-17-2012, 10:00 PM   #732
DangerousJohnson
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Once-awesome KLR used to start; now (infuriatingly) does not

Apologies in advance for the long post to follow....

Essentials

I bought a 2002 KLR 250 with around 8600 miles on it early in the summer. I've put around 1000 miles on it so far. It ran like a Swiss watch, starting on the first or second kick every time (until it didn't -- more on that in moment).

Timeline

The bike started and ran perfectly all summer. At the end of August I left town for two weeks. The last time the bike ran was a couple days before I left. All in all, the bike sat for 2.5 to 3 weeks before I tried to start it again. I kicked and kicked and it did not start. I tried again several times over the next few days. Nothing.

I had been planning to tackle the valve clearances in September anyway, so I used the non-starting as an opportunity to do that. I opened the case, learned more than I ever thought I would about engines, and somehow managed to do the job (thanks FreeHugger for the help and XDragRacer for the advice!). Valve clearances were perfectly in spec.

I also changed the oil and oil filter. There was plenty of used oil, so I don't think it's burning oil. Also, no leaks.

I put the bike back together, topped off the tank with fresh gas (it was only 1/3 full while it sat for those three weeks), and tried to start it. Nothing.

I took the tank off again, replaced the spark plug, verified that the spark was good, felt for compression with my finger since I didn't have access to a compression gauge (it seemed ok, but I know little about such stuff....). Put the bike back together and noticed two things: 1) the bike still did not start, and 2) the neutral light no longer came on.

(I learned that the neutral light is connected to the engine temperature gauge, so I definitely need to fix this, but for now it's a low priority. I'm assuming a loose connection or bad grounding, but I haven't found the culprit yet. Unplugged all likely wiring harness, blew out with compressed air, replugged, and still no light...)

So at this point I had spark and maybe compression (and anyway, how I would lose compression after the bike sat for just three weeks?), so I moved on to fuel.

I pulled and disassembled the carburator. Soaked in Pine Sol for 48 hours. Sprayed every non-rubber part with carb cleaner. Allowed to dry and followed with compressed air. Reassembled and reinstalled.

(At this point I noticed that the decelerator cable had too much slack. It was already hanging freely when I began taking out the carb, and I never got all the slack out when I put the carb back in. I suspect a crimp or kink in the line. Another low-priority-for-now problem.)

I also took off the tank, drained it and inspected for rust. A few little spots, not much. Vacuumed it out just in case. Replaced the air filter. Replaced the petcock with the Yamaha part, since the old OEM Kawasaki part had the lever snapped off and replaced with a superglued bolt! Replaced the fuel line. Added an inline fuel filter. Checked that the enricher nut was not cracked; it looked okay (though the choke cable has given me trouble before: it pulled out of the it's case on the handlebar twice during the summer.)

I added fresh gas and kicked. Nothing. I kicked it literally over 100 times. It was a great workout, but the bike didn't start.

So I caved to peer pressure and took it to a shop. The mechanic reported that the leak down test resulted in a value of 70%. Anything over 25% is bad. He said air is blowing out through the exhaust valves. However, he confirmed that the valve clearances are still perfect. The mechanic said it required a top end job that could "get to $500 real fast" at their shop.

Questions

I can't afford $500 so I paid $20 for the diagnosis and trailered the bike home. What I've listed above is the extent of my wrenching experience. Is a top end job something I may be able to tackle on my own? How long might it take? How much might it cost? And where do I begin? KACR, timing chain, valve seals.....?

Anything helps... Thanks!!!
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:38 AM   #733
TheEscapist
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Hey guys. Didn't realize there was a Jr KLR thread here.

My dad bought this bike brand new shortly after he bought me my very first bike... a brand new 1990 XR80 (I was about 6). He wanted to be able to ride with me. He did for a while, but once I moved onto moto bikes and met other friends who rode, he stopped coming along... so this bike mostly sat in the garage.

Well, I sold my last bike and joined the Army in '07. When I got out a few months back, he told me I needed to sell the KLR for him. I didn't wanna get rid of it (for some stupid sentimental reason), so I offered to buy it from him. He said "nope" and just signed the title over to me. Score!

It was a little ugly, so I did some paint stuff, recovered the seat (horrible job ), changed the fluids, cleaned the carb and inside of the tank, opened up the air box, put some knobbies on it, and thrashed it for a couple weeks.

Then I bought a 950 Super Enduro. My dad (71y/o) now jumps on the KLR and rides with me sometimes. But I still like to thrash the thing a bit. It feels so light and tiny after the 950, that I end up slamming it through tight single track stuff. If it had better suspension and just a tad more low end, the thing could actually be kinda fast! Surprised me a bit.

Well... short story long... here's a few pictures of our 1991 KLR250:






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Old 10-18-2012, 05:01 AM   #734
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerousJohnson View Post
Questions

I can't afford $500 so I paid $20 for the diagnosis and trailered the bike home. What I've listed above is the extent of my wrenching experience. Is a top end job something I may be able to tackle on my own? How long might it take? How much might it cost? And where do I begin? KACR, timing chain, valve seals.....?

Anything helps... Thanks!!!
With bike all ssembled, verification of spark, GIVE IT A WHIFF OR TWO OF STARTING FLUID as you crank it. (A handy fire extinguisher may be a good idea.)

Doesn't make sense, that a running bike does not start after mere carburetor maintenance. I think your immediate problem is incombustible air/fuel mixture; the starting fluid takes care of that problem.

Do as I suggest and you have the essentials, spark, compression, and combustible fuel mixture, for operation. Even with some valve-seating compression loss, bike oughta run, IMHO.

And, don't forget the old tried-and-true desperation starting maneuver: Have someone TOW you, as you put 'er in gear (maybe third gear) and gently let the clutch out . . . much more forceful than kccking the starting lever . . . you can mess with the choke and throttle while this is going on, in hopes of finding the combination that gets it running.

May need valve face and valve seat reconditioning, maybe rings, but . . . would hope that's less than $ 500.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:05 AM   #735
8gv
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DJ,

My semi-informed opinion...YMMV!

When a bike is running well, shut down and then left alone for 3 weeks...

IT ALMOST ALWAYS FUEL RELATED (back to that in a moment)

You may, or may not, have compression leaking through the valves.

When you checked the valve clearances, did you CHANGE the adjustment?
I assume you did not as you said they were ok. But if you did change the adjusting screws you could have set the RIGHT clearance at the WRONG time causing leakage through the valves.

Unusual occurrence, not likely:
You could have a small chunk of carbon that somehow has become dislodged from the head and found its way between the valve and seat. This is fairly common with airplanes. To remedy that you "stake the valves". Take off the valve cover, hook up the leak down equipment, turn the engine until the cam lobe is away from the rocker for the valve you wish to stake. Then hit the valve side of the rocker with a rubber mallet several times while watching the leak down gauge. If it comes up you have dislodged the carbon and are good to go.

Unlikely but possible:
Your KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) could be acting up. It's purpose is to make kick starting easier. It is a mechanism with counterweights that, at kick starting speed, allow an exhaust valve to stay open a little. As soon as the engine runs fast enough, around 600 rpm, it disengages and allows normal valve operation. It could be sticking. But I doubt it.

Most likely:
FUEL PROBLEM
You said you had spark and compression you could feel with your finger. You can prove it is a fuel issue by running it on starting fluid spray.
DANGER DANGER DANGER....
Do this outside. Have a fire extinguisher handy. Dont blow yourself up!
Buy an aerosol can of "starting fluid" at the auto parts store.
Take the seat off and spray into the air box. Kick until she fires up. If she doesn't fire up, have a helper spray as you kick.
If the bike runs on starting fluid look at your carb again.
Did I mention DON'T BLOW YOURSELF UP?

If it really is bad valves causing this:
Get a manual or better yet, a PDF of one.
Buy the tools needed to remove the head.
Follow instructions EXACTLY.
Remove head and inspect.
If it's bad, send it out for repair.
If it's not so bad, "lap" the valves. Google that.
If it's one piece of carbon, wish you had staked the valves.

If you go this route and are careful, you will get it done cheaper, own some nifty new tools and have increased your self esteem.

If you mess up, you'll wish you'd let the stealer do it.

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