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Old 12-17-2012, 07:59 PM   #826
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddzacker View Post
Never mind the 250's amp output is 10.5 max......
Right; 147 watts @ 8,000 rpm.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:18 PM   #827
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Originally Posted by bigfishs View Post
Do these connectors normally end up inside the fender?
IIRC, a little sheet-metal shield protects these connections, OEM. (Please look at part 14025 in this fiche: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot...9342#sch291267 )

Here's my tool bag, mounted to the front fork threaded holes with an aftermarket bracket:



A thick, flat, phenolic-like loading deck is installed in the former tool bag location.

And, here's my top case, shown on Cyclerack with Cyclerack pannier set and auxiliary fuel container setup:





Luggage switches between Cycleracks on KLR650 and KLR250.

XDragRacer screwed with this post 12-18-2012 at 01:20 AM
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:10 PM   #828
bigfishs
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Cool. I am going to need to get some sort of bag and rack at some point, probably early next year.
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Old 12-18-2012, 06:52 PM   #829
DrMoto
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leds for power saving

Quote:
Originally Posted by toddzacker View Post
Does any one know how much amps the alternator puts out on a KLR250? I am thinking of replacing all the lights with LEDs so I can power a heated jacket.

Any thoughts?
I did the same (replaced all bulbs - except headlight - with LED). I added heated grips and no problem running those. But a heated jacket pulls a lot more than you'll save this way.
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Old 12-18-2012, 07:40 PM   #830
1994klr250
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I have LED lights in my instrument cluster, tail/brake light, license plate light to save some power. I run heated gloves and the bike does fine. I tried running a gerbings heated jacket rated at 77 watts and it was too much for the bike to handle. I hooked my amp meter up to it and it was drawing 6.2 amps and dropped my battery down to 11.9 volts at 6,000 rpms. The battery is a motobatt less than a year old which holds at 12.8 volts engine off and between 14.8 and 15 volts with the bike running at 5k. The jacket did heat up, but I would imagine that it would slowly drain the electrical system.
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2300 miles on a 250 all for a sticker http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=616239
Fall ride on a KLR250 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754065

1994 KLR250, 2009 F800GS, 2006 KLX351
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:37 PM   #831
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
The jacket did heat up, but I would imagine that it would slowly drain the electrical system.
EDIT: "Upon further review," looks like the KLR250 has two stator coils; one powering the rectifier to charge the battery, and one to excite the CDI (ignition). Thus, if so, a KLR250 should start and run with a dead battery, even without a battery, not unlike the Generation 1 KLR650's.

XDragRacer screwed with this post 12-19-2012 at 12:27 PM
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:19 AM   #832
1994klr250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Battery drain could be an issue with a KLR250, I imagine. Unlike the Generation 1 KLR650's (featuring three-phase alternator power to the battery rectifier, plus an independent exciter coil on the stator powering the ignition), the KLR250 wiring diagram looks to me like single-phase AC is sent to the rectifier charging the battery and in turn, the KLR250 ignition.

If heated gear depleted the KLR250 battery entirely, might be hard to get the engine started, even keep it running.
When I bought my 94 KLR250 it had the original battery in it which was 13 years old and only had 6 volts in it. The bike still ran fine and no starting issues.

I was looking over the wiring diagram as well and I thought it has the three phase alternator in it. I see that it has 3 diodes in the alternator which should give it the three phases? And the 3 diodes turn it into dc current. I also see that there is a magneto in the system which goes to the CDI Unit and from there to the spark plug. I thought the electrical system on the klr250 was basically there just to run the lights?
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2300 miles on a 250 all for a sticker http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=616239
Fall ride on a KLR250 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=754065

1994 KLR250, 2009 F800GS, 2006 KLX351
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:34 PM   #833
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
When I bought my 94 KLR250 it had the original battery in it which was 13 years old and only had 6 volts in it. The bike still ran fine and no starting issues.

I was looking over the wiring diagram as well and I thought it has the three phase alternator in it. I see that it has 3 diodes in the alternator which should give it the three phases? And the 3 diodes turn it into dc current. I also see that there is a magneto in the system which goes to the CDI Unit and from there to the spark plug. I thought the electrical system on the klr250 was basically there just to run the lights?
Good catch; I looked at the electrical system diagram in my service manual after I read your post; looks like the KLR250 stator has two coils; one to charge the battery, and one to power the CDI. Thus, the KLR250 should start and run with a dead battery, or even no battery at all.

Don't see three-phase AC; instead, single-phase AC for the rectifier (to charge battery) and the same for the CDI.

I edited my previous post; your post was an incentive to do so; thanks!
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:42 PM   #834
stevemd
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Just chiming in to say hi and I bought Henry Martin's '89 KLR250. I figured I need to try one of these new-fangled water cooled motor cycles Where is the heater fan switch and temp control? It's cold out and I need the warm air
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:36 PM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevemd View Post
Just chiming in to say hi and I bought Henry Martin's '89 KLR250. I figured I need to try one of these new-fangled water cooled motor cycles Where is the heater fan switch and temp control? It's cold out and I need the warm air
LOL, welcome.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:58 PM   #836
dan-o
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Hi
I am a new owner of a 2004 KLR250 with 6700 miles on it. The bike appears to be in very good shape (as in not abused) When I bought the bike it had a definate rattle from what I thought was the timing chain. I removed the tensioner, which when I removed the two bolts it did not "jump" away from the engine as I would expect it to. As I was removing it I did feel it move and when I placed it back into location, the mounting ears stood proud of the engine by about 3/32" of an inch. (doesn't seem like there is much adjustment left) I turned the slot in the top to the right about 1/4 of a turn this put the mount ears solidly on the engine and retightened the bolts.
I started the bike up and the chain rattle is gone although I hear what sounds like loud rattling at the valves. towards the back of the head (I haven't checked them yet)
SO. the question is, does the cam chain stretch out with so few miles?
I am going to adjust the valves next, What are the signs I should look for while there?
Last question, this is my first kick start bike, How do you all kick start these things? stand on the pegs with the sidestand down?
thanks
dan
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:15 PM   #837
XDragRacer
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Chain shouldn't stretch, IMHO from my KLR250 experience.

Kick-starting's left to what feels most comfortable to you. The KLR250's resistance is small, compared to larger-displacement bikes and I think an automatice compression release is active. Straddle with feet on the ground, kickstand up or down; stand on the pegs with kickstand down; stand at the side and kick, forward or backward . . . you can even start it with you hand and arm, sometimes.

For adjusting cam chain and valve clearance, the following may be helpful:





Remember, there are TWO piston TDC positions each cycle; adjust your valves at the one when ALL valves are completely closed.

(Please disregard duplicate image below; my edit-fu can't delete it!)









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Old 12-19-2012, 04:25 PM   #838
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thanks, I downloaded a manual for the KLR from TECHSPARK. I will look for the clymers manual also. I have always found the Clymers BMW Airheads manual very good
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #839
XDragRacer
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thanks, I downloaded a manual for the KLR from TECHSPARK. I will look for the clymers manual also. I have always found the Clymers BMW Airheads manual very good
The KLR250 requires two manuals; the KLR250 supplement and the KLR600 manual, although I think a Clymer KLR650 manual can substitute for the factory KLR600 manual.
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:48 PM   #840
RebelYell
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Keep the valves adjusted and the oil clean as if you dont they will have end up having valvetrain problems.
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