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Old 01-19-2013, 04:49 PM   #916
jules083
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I know about the cv carb lag, this is more than that. If its below 2000 rpm or so and you twist it to half throttle or more it looses all power. You basically have to roll on the throttle at first. Over 2500ish all is well.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:05 PM   #917
newcastleadam
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Blocked pilot jet? Vacuum leak?
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:42 PM   #918
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by newcastleadam View Post
Vacuum leak?
A possibility; diaphragm may be punctured or torn; improperly sealed . . .

The needle and the needle jet dominate the mixture at throttle opening; might check them out, maybe a # 4 washer shim might help.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:18 AM   #919
jules083
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And here's the 'can of worms' I was hoping to not get into. Oh well.


For today there's not much to do, the bike shop is closed and hardware store hours are tight on Sundays. No sense tearing apart for a shim then finding out I need something at the bike shop. Still haven't done an oil change yet either, so the bike pretty much needs everything. It's cold and windy right now but she wants to go for a ride up the street. Fluids are there, valves are correct. Should be no harm done, doubt she'll put 1/2 mile on it in this weather.

Here's the dumb question time. I apologize before hand. I've always bought new(er) bikes, and worked on junk cars. I never saw a reason to buy a nice car, that's good bike money. So basically I am perfectly comfortable doing pretty much everything to a car, but bike knowledge is limited. Learning as I go.

Carb- plan is to have a shim on hand upon teardown. Clean everything, shim the needle, check the condition of all rubber hoses, put back together. Worth noting that the muffler had some sort of mod done, the spark arrester is gone and the hole on the end seems bigger than it should. No idea what stock looks like, I'm guessing someone just unbolted the tip and threw it away. Sounds OK, but may have leaned out the mixture some.

Oil- Not to start an oil post, but I always run 5W40 Rotella synthetic in everything else. I haven't seen a reason not to run it in this, but I'm listening.

Forks- This will be my first time. If all goes well I have an XRR and my KLR650 that should have been done long ago. I'm hoping disassembly won't turn into a project. On the oil level height, I never quite understood how to measure that. I once changed springs on a TTR125, and if I remember right I have no idea how I could have measured the fluid height. Am I missing some easy step here, or is it more involved than I think?

Coolant- I'll drain and re-fill. Nothing crazy should need done here I imagine. What type of coolant do you guys run? I've never had a bike old enough to consider changing the coolant. Probably should have on a few that were pushing 8 or 10 years old. I learned from my dad, who is a harley guy. He never saw a reason to change that stuff, and I went with it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:04 AM   #920
newcastleadam
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Carb/Exhaust- Sounds like you've got this covered

Oil- Dance with who brung ya

Forks- Two routes: just replace the oil or full disassembly and replace the oil. Either way you'll need fork oil and new seals, and is fairly straight-forward:

Replace Oil
  1. Remove front wheel, brake caliper, speedo sensor and cable
  2. Loosen top fork cap (easiest while front wheel is still attached), leave finger tight
  3. Loosen triple trees and remove forks
  4. Remove fork caps, take out spring, spacer, fork spring guide
  5. Turn upside down and drain (get as much out as possible)
  6. Replace fork cap and tighten
  7. Remove seal snap ring
  8. Wear safety goggles and wrap fork seals with a rag
  9. Slowly pressurize the fork using the fitting on the fork cap. Sometimes it takes 20-30psi, sometimes 100. Suggest do it in 10 psi jumps, letting it sit at each new pressure
  10. Seals will pop. Work them out with picks, small screwdrivers, etc
  11. Clean seal surfaces
  12. Place new seals, a suitable section of PVC should work great as a driver
  13. Clean internal components, refill with suitable oil. Generally 430mL will get you to 170mm from the top of the tube (measured vertically).

Disassembly- Same as above until #5
  1. Remove front wheel, brake caliper, speedo sensor and cable
  2. Loosen top fork cap (easiest while front wheel is still attached), leave finger tight
  3. Loosen triple trees and remove forks
  4. Remove fork caps, take out spring, spacer, fork spring guide
  5. Turn upside down and drain (get as much out as possible)
  6. Place a Craftsman 13/16" spark plug wrench backwardson a 24" socket extension (see below pic) and put this down the fork tube and on the fork damper rod
  7. Place a 6mm allen on the bottom bolt (you will either need long arms or two people) and take that bolt out
  8. Remove fork seal snap ring
  9. At this point the only thing holding the fork together are the fork seals; hold the bottom fork with one hand and "slam" the top fork out with the other. Think of it like a bearing puller.
  10. Remove the internal dampener rod components and clean. This stuff will be icky like the fork oil, recommend a big bucket
  11. You should be able to get it from here

Coolant- Whatever's cheapest.

Hope that helps!
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:43 AM   #921
jules083
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Awesome, thanks a lot. Seems easy enough, just take my time with it. I need to get a measuring cup thing also, I don't have anything suitable to measure 430ml.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.

jules083 screwed with this post 01-20-2013 at 03:12 PM
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:58 PM   #922
8gv
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Timely fork work post...

Thanks! Regarding the 170mm measurement from the oil to the top "vertically", is that dead nuts vertical or as measured with the forks in the triples on an angle? I supposed one cannot hold the front end of bike up with the caps off.

A clever person could drain and fill one at a time thus keeping the front end up. I know I'm splitting hairs on this. I need to be prepared to rebuild the forks at home in CT when I return from my Sonny's BBQ weekend.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:13 PM   #923
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Carb- plan is to have a shim on hand upon teardown. Clean everything, shim the needle, check the condition of all rubber hoses, put back together.
Isn't "night and day," but . . . shimming the needle might help. Don't want to drill out the vacuum port to 7/64" diameter while you're at it? Then you'll have a complete, righteous "22-cent mod!" (Full disclosure, my KLR250's CVK34 is stock (fuel screw adjusted); my KLR650 has full 22-cent mod.)
Quote:
Coolant- I'll drain and re-fill. Nothing crazy should need done here I imagine. What type of coolant do you guys run?
Only "crazy" thing; be sure to burp your cooling system thoroughly (run with radiator cap off 'til coolant circulates, expelling all air bubbles and pockets; then top off coolant (IMHO, any 50-50 coolant''s o.k.), button her up, and ride!).

Without burping, an air pocket may frustrate coolant circulation on idle, causing high temperature indication without triggering themal fan switch.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:33 PM   #924
newcastleadam
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:48 PM   #925
jules083
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Xdragracer, I can drill out the port while I'm there. I did my 650's and it didn't seem to change much though. Either way, i have the bit and ill be in it that far. Might as well do it.

I'll make sure to burp the system, thanks.


It looks like somewhat of a project measuring the oil height. The fluid level is going to be at an angle obviously, and it has to be 170mm down, at the center, with a 2mm leeway? Seems hard to get right.

All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:56 PM   #926
3DChief
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It's not complicated to measure at all. Take 2 zip ties and make a "T". The top of the T goes across the end of the fork, the vertical leg of the T hangs down into the fork. Measure the end that dangles down into the fork and cut it at 170mm. With the fork off the bike and vertical, pour in oil until it touches the end of the dangling zip tie. Cycle the fork a few times to make sure all the air is out and re-check the level.

Tim
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:24 PM   #927
8gv
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Thanks for the pic of the fork procedure.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:31 PM   #928
jules083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3DChief View Post
It's not complicated to measure at all. Take 2 zip ties and make a "T". The top of the T goes across the end of the fork, the vertical leg of the T hangs down into the fork. Measure the end that dangles down into the fork and cut it at 170mm. With the fork off the bike and vertical, pour in oil until it touches the end of the dangling zip tie. Cycle the fork a few times to make sure all the air is out and re-check the level.

Tim
Cool, thanks.

newcastledan, thanks for your help also. Hopefully this all goes as easily as planned.
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Old 01-21-2013, 06:58 AM   #929
jules083
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I was messing around last night, figured I'd throw this picture up for anyone curious. A Giant Loop Coyote fits the KLR fairly well. The rear hooks just barely fit, I have the strap as long as it can go and had to pull them pretty tight. They are meant to hook on the fender, but I have the left side on this gusset looking part of the frame and the right where the helmet lock used to be. I may notch the fender later to get it to fit better, haven't decided if it's needed or not. The kicker barely works, but does. You need to angle your foot out some and kick with your heel. The lower straps need to be on the passanger peg bracket to angle the bag down. If they are on the frame like I do on my XR then the bag sits more flat and the kicker hits the bag.

I have the bag stuffed with random clothes, and the sleeping pad on the back was just for me to see how it would hold. If traveling with the girlfriend the bag will be packed with light bulky stuff and I'll carry the heavy stuff on my bike. If I was by myself on this bike there'd be more strapped on, but it should still work fine.

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Old 01-21-2013, 08:46 PM   #930
enumclaw
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Timely. Been thinking the last few days how a Coyote would work on the 250. Thanks.
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