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Old 03-20-2013, 08:21 AM   #976
skypilot
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Anybody have an older style fairing for sale? I have a dark blue 93 with a crack in the fairing. I have an extra front fender to trade or will pay cash
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:38 AM   #977
max384
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New KLR250 owner here. I bought a 2002 with just under 5,000 miles on it this morning. It needs some work though.

I took it out on the trails by my house and it took me about 45 minutes to do three miles. It takes about 20-30 kicks (literally. I started counting) to get it started each time. Whew. That gets tiring real quick... Especially when it stalls about two dozen times on a three mile ride. I hope there was nobody within about a mile of me in the woods. I was swearing up a storm!

It's about 30 degrees F here. I needed to leave the choke on, at least part way, the entire ride. It would then start feeling like it was going to die and there was nothing I could do to keep it running. The engine would start bogging down, and I could pull in the clutch and give it gas and keep the revs up temporarily... But as soon as I let off the gas it would die. After kicking the hell out of it, it would finally roar to life and run good, and then a minute or so later it would start bogging down again.

I'm going to do the easy 'fix' first and throw some Sea Foam in there and see if that improves anything. If that doesn't work, I'll pull the carb and clean it up good and check the plug and see what that tells me. It has an aftermarket exhaust and was rejetted. I have the stock jet as well. I may just throw that back in too if the plug looks like it's running too rich. What are the recommended settings on the stock jet?

Any other common things to do on this bike? The previous owner said he recently checked the valve clearances. I guess it couldn't hurt to do that as well, just to be sure.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:57 AM   #978
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Honestly I'd skip the seafoam and pull the carb for a detail clean. That way you're starting from a known point if further issues present. Your hard starting issues scream "tight valves", recommend you double check the PO's work.

Have fun!
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:43 AM   #979
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Thanks. Yeah, you're probably right. No point in skipping out on doing what needs to be done. Thanks for the tip on the valves. I'll definitely check them. There's also no valve chatter, so tight is a possibility.

From what I can gather, the service manual is a two-fer deal? You've gotta get the KLR600 and the KLR250 supplement, right? Also, does it matter what year manuals I get? The cheapest ones from Ebay are manuals for the '80s model bikes, but there were no real significant changes over the years, were there?
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:45 AM   #980
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You've been given good advice here. I have an additional thing to check.

The choke cable enters the carb through a 90* plastic fitting. If it is cracked, as mine was, starting will be horrible. My guess is that engine vacuum pulls through the cracked fitting instead of the enrichment circuit. If that is the case, you're not really getting a rich mixture for starting. You may be able to putty over the crack with plumber's putty to see if it makes a difference.

Given that the bike is new to you, checking valve clearances is a top priority.

There is a good tutorial for that here:

http://home.earthlink.net/~klr250inf...ange/index.htm
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:24 PM   #981
dfye55
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Question lubrication for the uni-trac

I've got the uni-trac suspension disassembled and bearings cleaned out. The service manual says molybdenum disulfide grease. My local NAPA store did not have something by that name, but sold me Sta-Lube Moly-Graph grease http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3330 that has some molybdenum disulfide in it (their word from MSDS data).

My local Kawasaki dealer said he did not sell any molybdenum disulfide grease either. I didn't ask what they would have done if I asked them to lubricate it.

I found rockymountain atv has molybdenum disulfide grease: Yamalube. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ybdenum+grease

So is the Moly-graph grease I have sufficient?
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:17 PM   #982
newcastleadam
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Looks close enough that I wouldn't loose sleep over it. Personally I like grease that is also marine rated, but that's due to all the puddles I stall out in :-)
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:21 PM   #983
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfye55 View Post
I've got the uni-trac suspension disassembled and bearings cleaned out. The service manual says molybdenum disulfide grease. My local NAPA store did not have something by that name, but sold me Sta-Lube Moly-Graph grease http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3330 that has some molybdenum disulfide in it (their word from MSDS data).

My local Kawasaki dealer said he did not sell any molybdenum disulfide grease either. I didn't ask what they would have done if I asked them to lubricate it.

I found rockymountain atv has molybdenum disulfide grease: Yamalube. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ybdenum+grease

So is the Moly-graph grease I have sufficient?
What does it taste like?
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:34 PM   #984
max384
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Yeesh. I hope I didn't just buy a money pit.

I started with pulling the plug. The gap was too wide, the electrode was melted a slight bit on one end, and there was some oil... Not exactly promising.

I then moved on to the valve clearance check. The rocker arm adjusting screws and the top of the valve don't lie parallel to each other. I tried to get a picture, but the camera didn't show anything useful. Here's a drawing of what I'm talking about.



To be honest, I've only done valve clearance checks on shim-under-bucket type valves, so I don't know if this is normal or not.

And just to double-check, I should be checking clearances at the TDC when the cam lobes are facing outward, right?

If so, here are the just awful clearance measurements I got:

Left intake: No clearance
Right intake: No clearance
Left exhaust: 0.011" (0.279mm)
Right exhaust: No clearance

I'm hoping I screwed something up somewhere in my measurements, but I really don't think I did. Those are bizarre clearance measurements. I'm tired and need to be up early tomorrow. I'll tackle getting them adjusted tomorrow.



Oh, and I didn't win the Powerball... Again.
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Old 03-20-2013, 09:40 PM   #985
8gv
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Follow exactly the instructions on the KLR250 website including the direction to turn the flywheel. A small procedural error will result in scary wrong measurements.

http://home.earthlink.net/~klr250inf...ge/toolkit.htm

8gv screwed with this post 03-20-2013 at 09:47 PM
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Old 03-21-2013, 06:03 AM   #986
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Follow exactly the instructions on the KLR250 website including the direction to turn the flywheel. A small procedural error will result in scary wrong measurements.

http://home.earthlink.net/~klr250inf...ge/toolkit.htm
I re-did the whole procedure with the exact same measurements. I'm fairly certain those measurements are correct.

Can anyone confirm that the rocker arm adjusting screws and the valve stems are not supposed to be parallel, such as I have drawn in my picture (though a bit exaggerated)?
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:57 AM   #987
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Not trying to blow you off or insult your intelligence, max384, but . . . there are TWO (2) TDC piston positions for each four-stroke cycle; you adjust your valve clearance on the one between compression and power strokes (NOT exhaust and intake strokes), when ALL VALVES ARE COMPLETELY CLOSED.

From the zero clearances you report, I thought maybe you have the wrong TDC position; maybe not.

Agree with those who suggest carburetor disassembly, cleaning, and adjustment. As to starting difficulty, I've found on my own KLR250, sometimes closing the petcock (lever horizontal) and kicking it through a few times purges the system of excess fuel (as in, flooding from overly-generous float valve) helps to get it going. I probably need to disassemble, clean, and adjust carburetor myself!

Would advise adjusting fuel screw (idle mixture) and checking "choke" cable connection to carb (as suggested previously).

Good luck, and--KLR250's forever!

-----------------

As to the valve lash setscrew in the rocker and the valve stem interface contact, ain't no thang, IMHO. Set the clearance between the two (at the proper TDC point) and ride on!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:15 AM   #988
8gv
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Here is a thread on another forum showing the adjusters. The picture is in the seventh post. There may be other info there helpful to you. Maybe we're all in denial hoping it isn't so but if your valves are in fact that tight, it could mean real trouble.

The key to the valve clearance check is to make sure the cam lobe is fully away from the valve rocker. Setting the flywheel in the right place coming from the correct direction should yield that. If your valves are that tight you can adjust the clearance and hope for the best. Tight valves can leak compression and burn the valve seats. While there, take a look at the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) mechanism. The weights should be held in place by a spring (or two, I can't remember). If that hangs up it can cause a compression leak that will cause hard starting.

Tight valves may or may not exist on your bike but some carb issues could also be contributing to the problem.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:35 AM   #989
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Not trying to blow you off or insult your intelligence, max384, but . . . there are TWO (2) TDC piston positions for each four-stroke cycle; you adjust your valve clearance on the one between compression and power strokes (NOT exhaust and intake strokes), when ALL VALVES ARE COMPLETELY CLOSED.

From the zero clearances you report, I thought maybe you have the wrong TDC position; maybe not.

Agree with those who suggest carburetor disassembly, cleaning, and adjustment. As to starting difficulty, I've found on my own KLR250, sometimes closing the petcock (lever horizontal) and kicking it through a few times purges the system of excess fuel (as in, flooding from overly-generous float valve) helps to get it going. I probably need to disassemble, clean, and adjust carburetor myself!

Would advise adjusting fuel screw (idle mixture) and checking "choke" cable connection to carb (as suggested previously).

Good luck, and--KLR250's forever!

-----------------

As to the valve lash setscrew in the rocker and the valve stem interface contact, ain't no thang, IMHO. Set the clearance between the two (at the proper TDC point) and ride on!
No insult taken at all. I'd rather be given too much simple information, rather than not enough and be left confused. Besides, the very concise "between compression and power strokes" explanation helps me now know that I definitely have the right TDC. It was the TDC right after the intake valves closed. Naturally compression and power strokes would follow. So, I'm good there. Honestly, the only reason I second-guessed myself was because of how bad the measurements were. Probably the same reason why you would (wisely) consider that I may have the wrong TDC.

Just for shits and giggles and for the sake of argument though, I moved it to the other TDC and there was no clearance in any of them.

I stopped by the local shop to pick up a new spark plug. I asked one of the techs about whether the valve stem and rocker arm adjustment screw were supposed to be parallel. He said it's perfectly normal for them not to be. At least some good news.

Anywho, I got friends coming over and won't get back to the bike until the weekend. Hopefully I'll get it out on the trail by the end of the weekend.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:37 AM   #990
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Here is a thread on another forum showing the adjusters. The picture is in the seventh post. There may be other info there helpful to you. Maybe we're all in denial hoping it isn't so but if your valves are in fact that tight, it could mean real trouble.

The key to the valve clearance check is to make sure the cam lobe is fully away from the valve rocker. Setting the flywheel in the right place coming from the correct direction should yield that. If your valves are that tight you can adjust the clearance and hope for the best. Tight valves can leak compression and burn the valve seats. While there, take a look at the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) mechanism. The weights should be held in place by a spring (or two, I can't remember). If that hangs up it can cause a compression leak that will cause hard starting.

Tight valves may or may not exist on your bike but some carb issues could also be contributing to the problem.
Yeah, hopefully I don't have problems caused by the (now) obviously tight valves. We'll see.

Thanks for the tip on the KACR. I honestly never heard of that before, so I'll have to read up on it.

I'm done for the day. I'll be back to work on it over the weekend. Thanks for all your help so far guys!
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