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Old 04-06-2013, 06:22 PM   #1036
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfishs View Post
everyone loves a happy ending! My bike will need some shoes soon so this is useful info. Did not know that bit about not tightening up the axle till the brakes are centered.

In other news...

Took my 94 KLR250 to get it NYS inspected today. Failed for not having the kickstand kill switch, and no license plate light.
May your brake shoe installation end happily also, bigfishs! IMHO, your chances for happiness are improved with genuine Kawasaki brake shoes!

Failed inspection for side stand switch? My, how thorough, how meticulous! Hereabouts, the vehicle inspectors would have no idea of the purpose or of the function of the side stand switch.

At one location, the inspection consisted of my answering only ONE question, "Where do you want this sticker?"

As you doubtless know, many KLRistas disable the safety switches deliberately, early on. In your case, I might seek a less-knowledgeable inspector; MANY motorcycles have no side stand safety switches, ever.

Best of luck passing re-inspection; your bike looks great!
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Old 04-07-2013, 12:04 PM   #1037
bigfishs
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Cleaned the stand switch up a bit and now when I let out the clutch with the stand down, in gear, it kills the engine which I assume is the way its supposed to be. Had an electrical problem too. Rear light went out when I braked and the indicators didnt work. Unplugged the rear harness near the seat and the front lights worked ok. Checked the connector and it was corroded on the red wire terminal for the rear lights. Cleaned it up and booooyaaa..back in business. Bike should pass the inspection now and the retest is free if i go to the same place.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:46 PM   #1038
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfishs View Post
Also, he pointed out the front rotor is pretty worn and grooved. Looks like a new OEM one is 220 dolla. Are there any other options, preferably cheaper out there? I only paid $700 for the bike and probably have around 400 in parts into it so far...but it should be almost good to go now.
I just bought a front rotor and set of pads for $64, $78 including shipping, from flea bay. Or was it Amazon? Anyway, look and you'll find it. Fitment is unknown as these parts are for trip prep later this year.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:24 PM   #1039
max384
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Location: Sugar Notch, PA
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I finally got the feeler gauge out. All that is left to do is to bolt the generator cover back on and fill it with oil... Except I broke off a generator cover bolt. I couldn't find the torque specs, so I figured 150 in/lb would be a pretty conservative number... and one of the bolts snapped off. It was soft as butter. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!

Now I need to extract the bolt and get a new one. Fuck I'm really starting to hate this bike.

Anyhow, does anyone have the torque specs for the generator cover bolts?
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:24 PM   #1040
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Well, I figured 6 out of 7 bolts should be able to hold the cover on with no problems temporarily.

I went out to start it, and it was worse than before. It wouldn't start AT ALL. Finally, after about 40 kicks it started. It sputtered a little bit and died. What the hell. Again, after an inordinate number of kicks it started, took me about 100 yards and died. Oh yeah, that's right, it was low on gas and needed to be put on reserve...

Okay, now that it's on reserve... Wait for it... Wanna take guesses as to what happened?... Ready... It fired up first kick!!!! It ran pretty darn good too! Took it for a few spins around the block and it ran great... Without any choke either. It's consistently firing up with 1-3 kicks. I'm quite happy and don't hate the bike any longer.

Still need to extract the broken bolt though.
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max384 screwed with this post 04-08-2013 at 06:27 PM
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:50 PM   #1041
8gv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post
I finally got the feeler gauge out. All that is left to do is to bolt the generator cover back on and fill it with oil... Except I broke off a generator cover bolt. I couldn't find the torque specs, so I figured 150 in/lb would be a pretty conservative number... and one of the bolts snapped off. It was soft as butter. FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!

Now I need to extract the bolt and get a new one. Fuck I'm really starting to hate this bike.

Anyhow, does anyone have the torque specs for the generator cover bolts?
Someone gave me the torque spec. It was a range. I used 69 inch pounds because, well, I liked the number.
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:20 PM   #1042
dfye55
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Cry cover bolt torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Someone gave me the torque spec. It was a range. I used 69 inch pounds because, well, I liked the number.
I just looked through the klr250 supplement and the KLR600 base manual, I saw no specification for those bolts. Kinda like an electrical engineer wrote that section and did not care about torque. Maybe I missed something.

Don
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:30 PM   #1043
max384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
Someone gave me the torque spec. It was a range. I used 69 inch pounds because, well, I liked the number.
What was the range, do you remember?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfye55 View Post
I just looked through the klr250 supplement and the KLR600 base manual, I saw no specification for those bolts. Kinda like an electrical engineer wrote that section and did not care about torque. Maybe I missed something.

Don
I looked through them both and didn't see it either. I wonder if it's just a general range based upon the size of the bolt?


I did about 35 miles offroad on the bike today with no problems at all. She runs like a top! No oil leaking around the generator cover either, despite missing one of the bolts. Obviously I'm not going to just leave it like that, but it'll do for now.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:41 PM   #1044
bigfishs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8gv View Post
I just bought a front rotor and set of pads for $64, $78 including shipping, from flea bay. Or was it Amazon? Anyway, look and you'll find it. Fitment is unknown as these parts are for trip prep later this year.
Found them on ebay, thanks!

Bike passed the state inspection so I went for a ride at lunch. Got some strange looks from people returning to work..pants got a bit muddy after going off-road exploring

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Old 04-08-2013, 07:41 PM   #1045
Brash1
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Location: Bagley, Alabama
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I'm back with my carb problem

Been working from can to cant lately. But im back with my problem. Klr still won't crank cold without a shot of ether/carb cleaner or something flammable! Took the carb and stock choke cable (with a cracked plastic nut,you know the one im talkin about)off my 88 model. 5 kicks later, up and running. So, I'm gonna swap them again and put the stock cable on the problem bike. Hoping it will crank like that. If so ill throw away that aftermarket choke and buy a stocker. Any other suggestions? Hope to get back to it by the weekend.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:17 PM   #1046
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash1 View Post
Been working from can to cant lately. But im back with my problem. Klr still won't crank cold without a shot of ether/carb cleaner or something flammable! Took the carb and stock choke cable (with a cracked plastic nut,you know the one im talkin about)off my 88 model. 5 kicks later, up and running. So, I'm gonna swap them again and put the stock cable on the problem bike. Hoping it will crank like that. If so ill throw away that aftermarket choke and buy a stocker. Any other suggestions? Hope to get back to it by the weekend.
Would be surprised if your problem's the "choke." The device remains pretty simple; the plunger is an IN/OUT OFF/ON device; when OFF the plunger plugs its fuel orifice in the carb and an associated air passage; when ON, both these are opened to provide a fuel-rich starting mixture.

The cable and means used to insert and withdraw the enriching plunger shouldn't be critical, IMHO; YMMV!

As to the broken plastic choke cable cap: Stead Engineering sells a metal replacement part.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:27 PM   #1047
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I just resubscribed to this thread after being away from it a while. I don't have a KLR250, but had one I bought new in 2001 and rode it a lot till 2005. One came up for sale on the island and it's only got 2600 miles. I'll have to check with the owner as he doesn't say what yearb it is, but it's a red and black one, so I believe it's a latter model.
What I'm wondering is, are parts getting hard to find for these?

The 2001 I had blew up under warranty, as a small piece of silicone sealer from assembly broke loose and plugged the oil supply line to the top end. Got lots of new parts from that one. Then a seal went out on the water pump and it started leaking oil. Again, fixed under warranty. I actually liked that KLR250 very much. Mine was a great starting bike. After I got the preferred procedure for that bike down, it would always start first kick even if it sat for 2 months during the Pacifc Northwest winters.
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Birdmove screwed with this post 04-11-2013 at 01:48 AM
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:15 PM   #1048
8gv
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Location: North central CT
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So far I've bought these parts for my KLR250:
OEM
Clutch lever
Brake lever
Case gaskets
Complete carb


Aftermarket
Front sprocket
Chain
Grips
Rear rack
Mirrors
Fork seals

No issues getting any of this.
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Old 04-11-2013, 03:34 PM   #1049
Powderaddict
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What do you guys think of this KLR 250?

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/mcy/3735796511.html

I emailed him, he stated that he put in a 330cc kit with a JE piston. Are any of you familiar with that kit?

I love my KLR 650, but am thinking of doing some more trail riding, etc. I used to commute 50 miles each way including some 75 mph Interstate, but my commute is now 1.5 miles each way. I would still like to do CO touring, but I am happy doing 55 mph on most roads, and as long as it can do the occasional 70 mph blasts I'd be fine.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:48 PM   #1050
Dblarrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powderaddict View Post
What do you guys think of this KLR 250?

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/mcy/3735796511.html

I emailed him, he stated that he put in a 330cc kit with a JE piston. Are any of you familiar with that kit?

I love my KLR 650, but am thinking of doing some more trail riding, etc. I used to commute 50 miles each way including some 75 mph Interstate, but my commute is now 1.5 miles each way. I would still like to do CO touring, but I am happy doing 55 mph on most roads, and as long as it can do the occasional 70 mph blasts I'd be fine.
I have a 250 with the Cycle Works 330 kit. Absolutely different bike. My son has a normal 250 and the 330 is so much more. Mileage is still really good also. I took my 650 and my daughter rode the 330 to Alaska and she kept up quite easily. Cruising around at 55 and the occasional 70 is not problem, maybe just put a bigger sprocket up front.
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