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Old 04-12-2013, 12:37 PM   #1051
Powderaddict
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Location: Western Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dblarrow View Post
I have a 250 with the Cycle Works 330 kit. Absolutely different bike. My son has a normal 250 and the 330 is so much more. Mileage is still really good also. I took my 650 and my daughter rode the 330 to Alaska and she kept up quite easily. Cruising around at 55 and the occasional 70 is not problem, maybe just put a bigger sprocket up front.
Thanks for the info.

Would a larger front sprocket have a significant impact on off-road ability?
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:30 PM   #1052
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powderaddict View Post
Would a larger front sprocket have a significant impact on off-road ability?
Yes, IMHO, although the increased displacement must provide increased torque, perhaps adequate off-road for a higher gear.

Reverse-engineering your query, I found switching to a 14-tooth countershaft sprocket on my stock-engined KLR250 improved things off-road, plenty.

Yet, I can keep up with the Interstate express lane traffic, if I'm willing to flog the little beast some!
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:57 PM   #1053
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Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Yes, IMHO, although the increased displacement must provide increased torque, perhaps adequate off-road for a higher gear.

Reverse-engineering your query, I found switching to a 14-tooth countershaft sprocket on my stock-engined KLR250 improved things off-road, plenty.

Yet, I can keep up with the Interstate express lane traffic, if I'm willing to flog the little beast some!
Thanks.

Maybe I'll keep 2 sprockets handy if I get it, one for more road oriented rides, and one for off road rides.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:52 AM   #1054
Dblarrow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powderaddict View Post
Thanks.

Maybe I'll keep 2 sprockets handy if I get it, one for more road oriented rides, and one for off road rides.
Obvious answer is to play around and it depends on what is off road.

I picked up a 16 tooth only to find out it already had a 16 tooth on it. I had been running up and down and through the woods already. I can imagine that with a 14 tooth you could probably crawl along pretty good. For me off road is old abandoned logging roads and cutting corners through the woods and have no problems with the 16. I am however considering the 15 just for fun.
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:47 PM   #1055
1994klr250
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Dblarrow I see you have the 330 kit on your klr250. How do you like that big bore kit? I've been thinking of going that route when my klr needs a rebuild.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:20 PM   #1056
Dblarrow
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Originally Posted by 1994klr250 View Post
Dblarrow I see you have the 330 kit on your klr250. How do you like that big bore kit? I've been thinking of going that route when my klr needs a rebuild.
As I say in my sig line WOW! There is such a big difference between the 250 and the 330 it is like having a different bike. I have never ridden a real 350ish bike so can't compare to that, but this kit on this bike is a great upgrade.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:24 AM   #1057
tkata
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New with KLR 250

Hi everybody! I'm new here and i've already read some very informative posts. I got my KLR 250 trwo weeks ago, she's a 1995 model, the barby. The general condition isn't bad at all although there is some rast on the frame. I don't know much about technical matters but i'm trying...Well, she's got 1 or 2 things i think i'd better check asap. Let me explain:

1. The bike starts with 1-2 kicks, that's fine, but she wouldn't keep the idle. When on the road sometimes the engine stops when i pull the clutch. Also, when she gets a bit hot the idle goes up to 3.000 rpm and stays there until i pull over for some minutes.

2. I don't think the fan works and i'm a bit worried about the cooling of my engine. I'm not sure if the water pump works as well. The heat indicator doesn't seem to work either.

The guy that sold me the bike said he cleaned the carburator (not sure about the tunning though) and done the valves.

There are some other minor issues but i'll check them, i think these two are the critical ones. So, according to your experience what should i do before i started visiting the dealers arround?

Thanks a lot! Happy to be here!
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Old 04-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #1058
Brash1
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Problem solved

My hard starting klr Barbie is a one kicker now! After all the carb cleaning, it turns out I hadn't cleared the starter jet:( Thanks for the helpful tips guys! This forum has been a real money saver for me.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:59 PM   #1059
newcastleadam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash1 View Post
My hard starting klr Barbie is a one kicker now! After all the carb cleaning, it turns out I hadn't cleared the starter jet:( Thanks for the helpful tips guys! This forum has been a real money saver for me.
I've had the same issue. The pilot jet is so small that the teeniest speck will throw the carb out of whack.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:09 AM   #1060
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkata View Post
1. The bike starts with 1-2 kicks, that's fine, but she wouldn't keep the idle. When on the road sometimes the engine stops when i pull the clutch. Also, when she gets a bit hot the idle goes up to 3.000 rpm and stays there until i pull over for some minutes.

2. I don't think the fan works and i'm a bit worried about the cooling of my engine. I'm not sure if the water pump works as well. The heat indicator doesn't seem to work either.
# 1, hard to diagnose remotely; could be a thermally-expanding crack somewhere admitting excessive intake air; one of MANY possibilities.

#2, easy to check the fan circuitry. GROUND the thermal switch lead (connects to a thermal switch located toward the bottom of the radiator); this connection should activate the fan relay and in turn the fan.

Don't have my KLR250 wiring diagram handy; can't recall whether the KLR250 has a separate fan fuse or not; If the fan doesn't spin up when its thermal switch lead is grounded, I'd first check the fan fuse, if any. The thermal switch lead should have + 12 VDC present at all times, ignition ON or OFF.

Your bike, but . . . I'd be more comfortable with a functioning temperature gauge; any necessary repair parts should be available from Kawasaki, or a motorcycle "dismantler" (junk yard).
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:25 AM   #1061
8gv
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tkata:
When my fan stopped working I found a loose ground wire under the tank. The circuit includes the fan and a thermo switch. Follow the wires with the tank off. You may find the loose one ALMOST grounded to the frame. Tighten it up and it may work.

As for the revving:
Check the throttle cable routing and make sure turning the bars or cycling the front suspension doesn't pull on a cable. Verify the cables are adjusted correctly with the ends seated in their adjusters and about 2mm of play at the twist grip.
Then...
Check the integrity of the diaphragm on the top of your carb. It may have some dry rot cracking that's leaking air. I believe this could cause a lean condition and inconsistent rpms.

Make the fan work and the revving problem might go away.

8gv screwed with this post 04-16-2013 at 05:30 AM
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:18 PM   #1062
DrMoto
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I've read that the (larger) klr650 front brake disk will bolt up to our front hub. Has anyone made a bracket to move the caliper out to allow use of the 650 disk? Would seem like a cheap route to a bit more stopping power, rather than replacing triple tree/forks/hub/etc.
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:26 AM   #1063
tkata
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8gv & xDragRacer thank you for the tips.

It seems i have some work to do then...I'm sure i'll return with some more questions.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:35 AM   #1064
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrMoto View Post
I've read that the (larger) klr650 front brake disk will bolt up to our front hub. Has anyone made a bracket to move the caliper out to allow use of the 650 disk? Would seem like a cheap route to a bit more stopping power, rather than replacing triple tree/forks/hub/etc.
If a KLR650 disk will fit, then . . . so will an EBC 320 mm disk! Caliper brackets should be of similar complexity and difficulty, i.e., 650 stock to EBC oversize.

Yet, wouldn't get too optimistic about any improvement in stopping distance; the main advantage to a larger aftermarket disk, in my experience (EBC 320 on Generation 1 KLR650) is in increased modulation capability, improved brake control. I could lock up the tire with the stock setup.

Another brake system improvement to consider; steel-braided brake line. The instant response of the caliper to the brake lever feels reassuring, and . . . the faster response means fewer feet traveled before the, "Whoa!" starts, IMHO.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:52 AM   #1065
8gv
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X,
Have you a recommendation for the brake line? I might be looking for one.
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