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Old 04-24-2013, 03:30 PM   #1096
newcastleadam
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Gainesville, Fl
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If it needs that much now, bet it needs more once you really dig into it. Honestly I'd consider real hard about parting it out or using it as a parts bike for another KLR250 project.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:09 PM   #1097
max384
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Location: Sugar Notch, PA
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What kind of gas mileage are you guys getting riding in the dirt? I've gone through two tanks of gas now since getting the KLR and I'm averaging 43mpg, and this is probably 95% offroad trails, where I'm in first through third gears. I hear about these things getting 60-70+ mpg, but I've assumed that's on road gas mileage.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:19 PM   #1098
kidflyr
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Can't say much about dirt mpg but your numbers sound pretty good. Pre Thermo-Bob I was getting 52-58mpg, almost all on pavement with a mix of short trips and 200+ mile rides. Post Thermo-Bob, 63-68mpg with a couple tankfulls of 70+mpg during 100+ degrees Fahrenheit weather. I run a 38 pilot and 122.5 main jet, stock exhaust.
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Old 04-26-2013, 04:23 AM   #1099
regg
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Iowa
Oddometer: 67
Anyone checking valves?

Just thought I would let you know that I have a valve cover gasket for sale in the fleamarket for $20 shipped.

I sold my KLR 250 last summer and came across this new OEM gasket on my shelf.

Here's a link: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878533
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:13 AM   #1100
Powderaddict
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Western Colorado
Oddometer: 147
I've been tooling around town, and riding some local dirt roads and 4wd trails after work the last couple days. Even though it's old, my little KLR330 is a blast! What a great, fun little bike. I can't wait to take it on some longer camping trips this summer :)

It's fun on pavement as well, being so light it's so easy to lean in corners. It doesn't look like much but it is a very capable smile generator
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:30 AM   #1101
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbess1110 View Post
I need new heads cam shaft rocker arms exhaust lobe

Sent from my VZW 4g LTE Note 2
An exhaust lobe should be included with your replacement camshaft.

I'd hate to sign the death warrant for any running KLR250, but . . . given your level of familiarity, I fear attempting rehabilitation of your bike will result in an expensive, frustrating experience.

A learning experience? Surely. But--the tuition is HIGH!

Your bike; your call.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:50 AM   #1102
dfye55
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Location: south central Indiana
Oddometer: 237
I just got back 5 day trip from Columbus in to south eastern ky. Best gas mileage was off road. On road at 55+ mph the miles per gallon can drop to 50's.

Are your carb, intake and exhaust modified? Stock setup is lean and pretty efficient.

Sent from mobile
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:45 PM   #1103
BentRimz
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Mobile
Oddometer: 19
'01 klr



I bought this thing back in December for $1500 and It had less than 3k on it. (I'll find a better photo later) And this is what I have done to it so far.
Change oil & filter
Adjust valves
Cleaned carb
shimmed carb needle with 2 #4 washers
new main jet 122
drilled a couple of holes in the air box
larger front sprocket
Bark busters
And about 2500 miles since.

So here are some questions.
What other mods do you recommend?
Are there any mechanical things I should keep my eye on?
What are good tire recommendations for 50/50 riding?
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:09 PM   #1104
kidflyr
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Put on a Thermo-Bob! And... PCV valve in the crankcase breather tube, capacitors wired in parallel with the battery, LEDs in all bulb locations other than the main beam, evaporative emissions system removal if you have a CA/50-state model. Skip Faulkner's fuel tank mod (at bigcee klr650 faq) & insulate bottom of the fuel tank with reflectix where the warm air coming off the radiators hits it. Change the coolant and inspect &/or replace the radiator cap if you haven't yet. Consider repacking the fuel petcock (mine leaked very slowly when I got the bike and would flood the carb overnight in the OFF position). Check the oil level every time you fill up and tire pressure before you ride, every day that you ride.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:24 PM   #1105
kidflyr
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If you haven't yet, change the fork oil, set your suspension sag, and consider progressive suspension's fork springs (about $100 plus fork oil and your time) depending on how satisfied you are with the stock fork's performance.

Galfer stainless steel front brake line and new brake fluid.
New brake fluid alone can make a difference if the existing fluid is old, dirty, or has absorbed much water from the atmosphere.

An aftermarket front fender such as the Acerbis supermoto model can cut down on the effects of crosswinds on the road, but don't offer much protection from mud or water spraying off the front tire as the OEM floppy-donkey fender. It's only 4 bolts to change the fender so I don't feel that it's too inconvenient to swap from commute fender to trail fender in the driveway between rides.
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:57 AM   #1106
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentRimz View Post
larger front sprocket
What other mods do you recommend?
Are there any mechanical things I should keep my eye on?
What are good tire recommendations for 50/50 riding?
Front sprocket choice a function of your riding style and environment; I went with a "smaller" front sprocket; 14-tooth vs. stock (15-tooth); helps considerably off-road and I can still keep up with the Interstate express lane traffic.

I recommend Progressive front springs; again, a function of riding style and environment; helps off-road handling.

Kenda K270's I find an excellent 50/50 tire; I'm running Taakmaster II's; emphasizing off-road performance and accepting whatever asphalt wear rate may result.

A left rear view mirror relacation perch (e.g., from Eagle Mike et al) will keep you from grenading your handlebar switch gear; Ken Sean folding dualsport mirrors work well also.

I'm satisfied with the stock carburetion and cooling system; KLR250s are sensitive to radiator BURPING, when replacing coolant; run engine 'til coolant circulates with radiator cap off, to displace air bubbles and pockets; top off coolant, replace radiator cap and ride on.

With respect to PCV valve mod supporters, I remain a somewhat evangelistic agnostic, but--does no harm, AFAIK.
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:55 PM   #1107
bigfishs
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: albany, NY
Oddometer: 46
Need some help with my chain

My chain was rather loose, so much so that you could hear it flapping a bit when you get on the gas plus it seemed to be making a bit of noise. I also notice that once per rotation of the chain it doesnt come off the top of the rear sprocket. I tried to tighten it my adjusting the wheel back one click each side but that makes it worse and the wheel is hard to turn at that one part of the loop.

Is it normal to be able to wiggle the rear sprocket a bit with the wheel on tightly? It seems bolted on ok but if you grab it like a steering wheel and pull one hand towards you and push the other there is a bit of play, same with the chain on the sprocket, it can move a bit to or away from you.

I notice the countershaft sprocket also has a lot of the same play, two nuts holding it in place seem fine and you can pull it in or out along the shaft around 1mm, plus it does seem to be wiggleable one side away and the other towards. Im not sure how much play should be in these bits.

All the teeth seem there, the bike has 6K miles on it and these may be the orig parts.


Should I spring for new chain and sprockets? If so, is it a flea bay job? I can take pics if you guys would like to see, just tell me what angle to snap, wheel is off the bike. Help!

bigfishs screwed with this post 05-01-2013 at 05:10 PM
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:13 PM   #1108
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:21 PM   #1109
DrMoto
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You didn't mention mileage, but those sprockets look very worn. I'd replace them, and chain.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:27 PM   #1110
kidflyr
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That countershaft sprocket looks done! I'll let someone else weigh in on flea bay, but Rocky Mountain Atv/Mc has some good prices on reputable products.
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