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Old 06-07-2013, 01:48 PM   #1156
Powderaddict
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Western Colorado
Oddometer: 141
More issues with heating. My bike did actually overheat - all the way past the red line on the temp guage. It has a 330 in it, I don't know if that's relevant.

If I'm moving it's fine, really it's only if sitting at idle that it overheats, or moving slowly. But it happens fairly quickly, I can't sit still for more than a minute or so without the bike overheating. I've even set the fan up to run all the time - it helps, but the bike will still overheat. If I rev it up it high while at a standstill it helps, I'm guessing the water pump is forcing the coolant through the system and dropping the temps? The thermostat supposedly is pretty new. I've belched it. But it does overheat on slow, steep, long climbs, or when at a standstill.

I want to check the radiator cap, but ordering them online is fairly expensive, especially just to check it. Are there alternatives for radiator caps? Are they common items shared across platforms, or are they specifically made for each bike?
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:36 PM   #1157
nnamssorxela
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Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Fort Collins, CO
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Try one of those radiator flush kits that remove the build-up inside, as your efficiency could be compromised (does it look clean inside?). I use water wetter (decreases surface tension aiding cooling) with 15% anti-freeze mixed in, though some prefer engine ice. Anti-freeze actually hurts the cooling effects of water, so make sure your mixture isn't more than 50% anti freeze (it is the summer after all). Be sure to use only distilled water when mixing as tap water has minerals etc that promote build up.

Also, don't run just water. Coolants and anti-freezes have additives that keep the seals conditioned whereas water alone wont.

Sorry for the jumbled dump of info. Let me know if you need me to elaborate on anything.

When I had my last bike (yamaha wr400), I was able to use a Ford Ranger v6 rad cap that was rated at a higher pressure, but this was more to keep me from boiling over and dumping coolant than controlling temperature.

-Alex
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:17 PM   #1158
XDragRacer
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powderaddict View Post
More issues with heating. My bike did actually overheat - all the way past the red line on the temp guage. It has a 330 in it, I don't know if that's relevant.

If I'm moving it's fine, really it's only if sitting at idle that it overheats, or moving slowly. But it happens fairly quickly, I can't sit still for more than a minute or so without the bike overheating. I've even set the fan up to run all the time - it helps, but the bike will still overheat. If I rev it up it high while at a standstill it helps, I'm guessing the water pump is forcing the coolant through the system and dropping the temps? The thermostat supposedly is pretty new. I've belched it. But it does overheat on slow, steep, long climbs, or when at a standstill.

I want to check the radiator cap, but ordering them online is fairly expensive, especially just to check it. Are there alternatives for radiator caps? Are they common items shared across platforms, or are they specifically made for each bike?
I had the IDENTICAL problem!

The solution? Embarrassingly simple:

BURP the radiator!

An air pocket apparently impeded coolant flow at idle, resulting in a high temperature reading from the temperature sensor at the head, while the coolant temperture didn't rise sufficiently in the bottom of the radiator to trip the thermal switch and activate the cooling fan.

(BTW, activating the cooling fan at idle by jumping the thermal switch lead to ground did NOT lower the temperature gauge reading at idle.)

(As in your case, at higher rpm, and when rolling down the road, engine temperature was normal; seemingly problematic only at idle.)

Burping involves running the engine with the radiator cap OFF 'til the coolant circulates, allowing trapped air to escape. Then, after topping off coolant in radiator and reservoir, system activated fan when temperature rose at idle, cooled down according to temperature gauge, repeat.

Hope your problem and its solution is as simple.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:18 PM   #1159
leakyfaucet
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Hi all,

New to dual sports, I've been looking to buy a KLR 250 for some adventure riding. I found an '05 with 5,000 miles on it in excellent cosmetic shape, but I noticed a few things wrong. The most obvious being that the tach and temp gauge don't work at all. Is this a common problem like something as simple as some unplugged wires? Or does it mean I'll probably have to source a new gauge cluster? I'm concerned about the temp gauge not working. Would it be possible that this has prevented the fan from kicking on, and possibly overheating the motor in the past?

Thanks!

leakyfaucet screwed with this post 06-09-2013 at 03:37 PM
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:34 PM   #1160
DrMoto
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Joined: Aug 2011
Location: California, USA
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Not positive, but i don't think instrument cluster not working would influence fan behavior. My fan almost never comes on, and I'm in south Georgia. My fjr, on the other hand, blasts plenty of heat on me when the fan kicks on at a long stoplight.
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Old 06-09-2013, 11:21 PM   #1161
kbess1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
I had the IDENTICAL problem!

The solution? Embarrassingly simple:

BURP the radiator!

An air pocket apparently impeded coolant flow at idle, resulting in a high temperature reading from the temperature sensor at the head, while the coolant temperture didn't rise sufficiently in the bottom of the radiator to trip the thermal switch and activate the cooling fan.

(BTW, activating the cooling fan at idle by jumping the thermal switch lead to ground did NOT lower the temperature gauge reading at idle.)

(As in your case, at higher rpm, and when rolling down the road, engine temperature was normal; seemingly problematic only at idle.)

Burping involves running the engine with the radiator cap OFF 'til the coolant circulates, allowing trapped air to escape. Then, after topping off coolant in radiator and reservoir, system activated fan when temperature rose at idle, cooled down according to temperature gauge, repeat.

Hope your problem and its solution is as simple.
Having the same issue with my 250 as well...ill be trying this trick tomorrow thanks!!

sent from my VZW 4G LTE Note 2
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:07 PM   #1162
Outwardbound
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Strongsville, OH
Oddometer: 670
Quote:
Originally Posted by leakyfaucet View Post
Hi all,

New to dual sports, I've been looking to buy a KLR 250 for some adventure riding. I found an '05 with 5,000 miles on it in excellent cosmetic shape, but I noticed a few things wrong. The most obvious being that the tach and temp gauge don't work at all. Is this a common problem like something as simple as some unplugged wires? Or does it mean I'll probably have to source a new gauge cluster? I'm concerned about the temp gauge not working. Would it be possible that this has prevented the fan from kicking on, and possibly overheating the motor in the past?

Thanks!

I own a 2000 KLR250. Surprisingly enough, the instrument cluster won't work without a good battery. Although the bike will run w/o the batt, I recommend against doing this long-term. The rectifier overheats without a battery to charge, and will eventually fail. Batteries are waaay cheaper than rectifiers.

Concerning the fan circuit: With the bike running ground the fan lead which comes from the radiator temp switch. Fan should run.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:24 PM   #1163
leakyfaucet
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Awesome, thanks guys!
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Old 06-10-2013, 06:59 PM   #1164
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leakyfaucet View Post
Would it be possible that this has prevented the fan from kicking on, and possibly overheating the motor in the past?

Thanks!
Not likely; the temperature sensor in the head is connected to the temperature gauge; the cooling fan is on a separate circuit and activated by closure of the thermal switch in the lower reaches of the radiator.

You can test your cooling fan by temporarily shorting the thermal fan switch lead to ground, simulating switch closure.

Here's a wiring diagram for a Generation 1 KLR650 fan circuit; same-o for KLR250 (except no separate 10-amp fan fuse):

http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR-Fan-ckt-4.jpg

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Old 06-11-2013, 06:41 PM   #1165
Brash1
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Location: Bagley, Alabama
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ive got the opposite problem

My 94 klr only runs hot at highway speeds ( 50mph+). Any ideas on the cause of that? This is a unfamiliar bike to me. Bought it a few months ago and had a carb issue. Got that fixed, but when i took it out for the first time it ran hot.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:07 PM   #1166
jules083
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Location: Richmond, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brash1 View Post
My 94 klr only runs hot at highway speeds ( 50mph+). Any ideas on the cause of that? This is a unfamiliar bike to me. Bought it a few months ago and had a carb issue. Got that fixed, but when i took it out for the first time it ran hot.
Get all of the air out? Its happened before on these bikes. Also, what do you call hot? Mine always seems to run on the higher end of the gauge but has never seemed to overheat

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Old 06-11-2013, 07:37 PM   #1167
Brash1
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running hot

into the red. But, pull into a small road or trail and will cool down into the mid to high range on the temp gauge. Havent tried burping the radiator, guess ill give that a shot this weekend.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:47 PM   #1168
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jules083 View Post
Also, what do you call hot? Mine always seems to run on the higher end of the gauge but has never seemed to overheat
Likewise; needle has approached the red, but . . . coolant never boiled.

Thus, WHAT? ME worry?

Even idling in 100-degree F. weather, with the radiator properly burped, the fan cycles and the coolant stays within safe limits.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:38 PM   #1169
rfoll
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Joined: Jun 2013
Location: St. Helens, OR
Oddometer: 35
1988 klr 250 carb issues

I have read everything I can find on the subject of CVK 34 problems, but I have yet to see any solutions to my problem. The engine wants to race with the throttle closed. The carb is clean, I am afraid of wearing out the screws from taking it apart. The start mechanism is new from my thumb through the plastic cap at the carb body. When I had it apart last I noticed the slide was worn badly, so I just replaced it with a new one. The person before me pulled the exhaust diffuser and carved up the air box, replacing it with a spring loaded, oil soaked sponge. For those reasons, I went from a stock 112 main jet to a 115. I noticed the pilot air screw was square on the end. It does extend into the throat, but I wonder if it even belongs to this carb. The motor idles best with the pilot air screw CLOSED!!!??? The engine does not race as bad with the fast idle screw turned down, but then it will not idle regardless of pilot screw position. The bike starts and runs well, and when I last checked it got 67 MPG. The bike has about 3200 miles on it, but I suspect it was mostly off road
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:36 PM   #1170
XDragRacer
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Originally Posted by rfoll View Post
The engine wants to race with the throttle closed.
Long-distance diagnosis difficult, but . . . COULD BE an air leak in your plumbing, somewhere.

Are you certain the starting enricher ("choke") plunger is fully seated, closing both its fuel orifice and air passage?

The idle circuit, properly configured, admits the idle mixture through the pilot jet into the venturi . . . butterfly valve should be in most restrictive position, slide adjusted down with the idle adjustment screw. . . and the fuel screw should have a "pointy" end . . .

You've read a lot; have you read this?

http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm

About the CVK40, but applicable to the CVK34 in large measure.
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