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Old 05-17-2008, 10:44 PM   #16
Don't shoot me!!!
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I only had to rerout the vires on the left, and i probably didn't need to rerout them annyway cause they wasn't so tight.

It's a dumb question, but many of the modifications that had some minor issues on advrider hasn't been an issue at all on my bike???

Are there so big differenses on European bikes and US?
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Old 05-19-2008, 02:09 PM   #17
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I won't shoot, I promise. Guns scare me.

Anyway, I'd have to defer to Jim or someone else smarter than I to answer your questions.

In terms of offering an update as to the functionality, you can check out the ride report here from this weekend:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343271

Bottom line is that I think they worked fine, but didn't make too much difference. So I am convinced that I need other things more than these. I guess they make it more comfy overall, and a touch easier for stand up riding, for long distances, but in the mostly technical stuff from this weekend, they didn't make much difference.

From a strength perspective, though, they held up very well as I binned it 3 times and not one slip or problem.
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Old 05-19-2008, 06:54 PM   #18
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Laugh Counterpoint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by longtallsally
I won't shoot, I promise. Guns scare me.

Anyway, I'd have to defer to Jim or someone else smarter than I to answer your questions.

In terms of offering an update as to the functionality, you can check out the ride report here from this weekend:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=343271

Bottom line is that I think they worked fine, but didn't make too much difference. So I am convinced that I need other things more than these. I guess they make it more comfy overall, and a touch easier for stand up riding, for long distances, but in the mostly technical stuff from this weekend, they didn't make much difference.

From a strength perspective, though, they held up very well as I binned it 3 times and not one slip or problem.
Look for all you that are considering Rox Pivoting Risers for your GS or GSA understand that your height and reach may make these risers exactly what you need. BMW's 'average' rider [suspension neutral settings] is 185 lbs...I seem to remember that LTS is 6'7" and has a 39 " reach so I also doubt he is 185 lbs. Perhaps I am confusing him with someone else. My point is for me at 185 lbs, 33" reach and 5' 10" the risers have transformed my control and comfort while riding standing up off road...best investment next to my low seat that I have made and since I shooting* for 90% off road riding on my '07 GSA it has enormously enhanced my off road riding skills.

To each their own and a lot of good off road folks recommended, use and swear by the Rox Pivoting Risers...I am glad I listened to them.

*Hope this word doesn't cause you angst and I trust you will overcome your fear of inanimate objects.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:07 AM   #19
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I just bought a set of the Rox Risers for my bike. Of course I screwed up my order and Ryan called me because I used the comment field to tell him what I wanted. Great service. He sent the link to this install. I'm mostly through doing the install and have some comments.

My bars are held down by some E-10 Torx bolts so that's the tool I need to sneak in that gap. Sears local to me doesn't have them in stock of course.

My throttle cable is very snug now. I even moved the bars around some just to ease the pressure and it doesn't have room. I'm going to have to bend or remove the little wire clip near the VIN on the fork tree. Anyone else have that or am I just lucky? Mine was the first GSA12 delivered at Morton's BMW in VA so it's early production.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daGeeeze
I just bought a set of the Rox Risers for my bike. Of course I screwed up my order and Ryan called me because I used the comment field to tell him what I wanted. Great service. He sent the link to this install. I'm mostly through doing the install and have some comments.

My bars are held down by some E-10 Torx bolts so that's the tool I need to sneak in that gap. Sears local to me doesn't have them in stock of course.

My throttle cable is very snug now. I even moved the bars around some just to ease the pressure and it doesn't have room. I'm going to have to bend or remove the little wire clip near the VIN on the fork tree. Anyone else have that or am I just lucky? Mine was the first GSA12 delivered at Morton's BMW in VA so it's early production.
I assume you moved the cables and hoses behind the fork tubes? If so, you may have to lift the tank and do a bit of repositioning of the throttle cable to get it to cleanly reach.

As for the E-10 Torx, use a 9mm, IIRC, closed end wrench to loosen and tighten them, or replace the E-Torx with allen screws like I did.

Jim
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:59 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden
I assume you moved the cables and hoses behind the fork tubes? If so, you may have to lift the tank and do a bit of repositioning of the throttle cable to get it to cleanly reach.

As for the E-10 Torx, use a 9mm, IIRC, closed end wrench to loosen and tighten them, or replace the E-Torx with allen screws like I did.

Jim
I had an 8mm 12 point that worked but I'm too afraid of rounding off the heads to turn hard. It is kinda snug in there. I'll find the E10 Torx wrench at some point but I think the 8mm did a good enough job. I'll have to look at my main tool set to see if I have any 6 point metric box wrenches. Too lazy right now. Just got my AC turned on for the first time this year. I think I wanna take a nap now.

As for lifting the tank. Ugh. I've only got about 250 miles on this tank so far so it's still half full. I'll run some more out.

Thanks Jim. You're helpful as always and I do want you to know I appreciate it.

From just sitting on the bike in my garage (making vroom vroom noises) I can tell it's going to be an improvement. My forearms are level now and when I stand I can grip with my knees locked out. I do that on long rides to cool my butt and the seat and before I could only reach with my fingertips unless I bent my knees or leaned forward.

Wish I had this in place before yesterday when I spent 7 hours riding through the Smoky Mountains. (I know y'all feel sorry for me.)
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Old 06-01-2009, 12:06 PM   #22
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This install is different than the newer GSs. Here is a link I did for my 08 GSA:
http://gsri.info/forum/technical-are...tion/#post1453

I did not reroute the cables and did not appear to be any binding.
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Old 06-28-2009, 11:56 AM   #23
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Rox Riser Fork Tube Install

I installed Rox Risers on my 2006 GS and everything went well except when I replaced the fork tubes. I don't know if I stripped out the bolts as on both sides they turned to the torque amount and then began threading easy. I could not back the bolts off. They seem to be tight with no play in the tubes. Anyone run into this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by longtallsally
So there is a really good thread out there with good info in it, but no pics of some of the critical stuff. So I thought I might fill in the gaps a touch. This will be mainly pictorial. For more tech questions go to Jim VonB.

Here they are prior to install:


Before and totally stock:





Fatory switch removed:



Bars removed:



I must be an idiot as I don't think there is any friggin' way to get a torque wrench in there to get this to spec as shown with these:





Here is the initial view of the bars in place:



Taking the caps off the fork tubes:



Loosening the bolt and holding the bottom part stationary with a 19mm wrench (no one else mentioned the size). The upper nut is a 14mm. Just like everyone says, once the nut comes off the top, the fork just slides down. Easy peasy. And just as easy to get it back up.



Initial view of them in there:



Fork tube dropped:



One of the zip ties that had to be clipped close to the ignition key:



Another zip tie needing to be clipped:



My solution for the foglight switch:



I don't see a need to "fix" this any further as the only thing it does is make the key take an extra 2 seconds to pull out. The bike is garaged and I am getting to where I only use it on trips, so the key rarely comes out any more so who cares and it is totally stationary.

Rear view of them in place:



Pics of the wires and cables rereouted:





I'm not nuts about the wires hanging down like they are, but I think they will be OK.

First impressions are that for the first time on a bike I can stand up completely straight. I have not totally finalized the location just yet, but I think I'm close. I put a HUGE amount of weight on them (I'm 220+) and bounced a bit and they seem stable. I'll find out real world in a couple days up in El Dorado in the Sierras.

It's kooky as I feel like I've got ape hangers now, but I think it will by comfy- especially standing up.

I'll report back when I get back as to how they performed. Hope this helps someone out.
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Old 07-11-2009, 05:44 AM   #24
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Just installed the 2" Rox Risers on my 07 GSA. Then I took them off.

I loved the extra height. I can finally comfortably reach the controls while standing. And the wiring stretch I can deal with - but I don't like the reroute of the brake and clutch lines.

Without moving them, they are stretched. After moving the brake (I just unbolted the master cylinder and passed it through the space in the fork) I don't like the angle of the line. The right answer would seem to be having new lines fabricated that are 2" or 3" longer to maintain the routing in front of the fork tubes, and not stretching them.

Not the thing I want to be doing a couple days before taking off on a trip. It will have to wait until I have time to take the lines off, have new ones made, and then go through the pain of bleeding the ABS.
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:39 PM   #25
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Funny. They didn't bother me on my 3300 miles through Baja and 15k miles since I've put them on. To each his own.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9Dave
Just installed the 2" Rox Risers on my 07 GSA. Then I took them off.

I loved the extra height. I can finally comfortably reach the controls while standing. And the wiring stretch I can deal with - but I don't like the reroute of the brake and clutch lines.

Without moving them, they are stretched. After moving the brake (I just unbolted the master cylinder and passed it through the space in the fork) I don't like the angle of the line. The right answer would seem to be having new lines fabricated that are 2" or 3" longer to maintain the routing in front of the fork tubes, and not stretching them.

Not the thing I want to be doing a couple days before taking off on a trip. It will have to wait until I have time to take the lines off, have new ones made, and then go through the pain of bleeding the ABS.
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:40 AM   #26
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Ilium Risers

I just installed ilium bar backs / risers on my r1200gsa and I really like them. Super easy install although I did have to drop the fork tube (no big deal) to reroute some cabling. Tricky part was remouting the fog light switch. Just use the old top bars of the bar mounts with the new risers. Works like a charm. www.iliumworks.com
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Old 07-13-2009, 06:11 PM   #27
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=382184

Save yourself a pile of work, you don't need to reroute the cables unless the GSA is different than the GS for hose routing. Check out my post on this topic.
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:49 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longtallsally
Taking the caps off the fork tubes:


Thanks for the pics, LTS.

I just purchased risers and the front brake and clutch hydraulic cables are binding.

Now I know how to solve this.

I was dreading it, but this looks "easy peasy," to quote you.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:02 PM   #29
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I did not reroute nor have several of my friends bikes that have done this. Maybe some variations in models but the ones I have seen work fine
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:30 PM   #30
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tightening torque

The reprom says 40Nm tightening torque on the fork bridge mounting nuts... plus to replace the nut. Also says 28Nm tightening torque on the BMW handlebar risers... only gap at rear as viewed from sitting on bike.


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