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Old 05-13-2012, 06:26 AM   #76
freyke
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You'll get more slack/play by routing the throttle cable "under" the handlebars; right now you have the cable over the top. Follow this thread to help you relocate the cable ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347359 )

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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardpackrider View Post
okay, just finished ROX install on 2012 GSA. what worked for me.. had to drop clutch side forks and put cables under (towards rear of bike), did not have to drop front brake side..

did have to pay close attention to throttle cable... dealt with it with cable (zip) ties..



no binding at this time...



hope this helps others.. again this thread, and Jim's DVD were very helpful to me..

best

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Old 05-13-2012, 08:37 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallguy-09 View Post
Did you have to re-route throttle or brake lines?
On my 07' the throttle cable is behind the bars and forks and the brake line is fine because I moved the bars forward. After taking pics I noticed that the risers are actually pushed forward a few degrees.

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Old 05-13-2012, 09:26 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddMc View Post
On my 07' the throttle cable is behind the bars and forks and the brake line is fine because I moved the bars forward. After taking pics I noticed that the risers are actually pushed forward a few degrees.
How did you get the throttle cable to the bottom of the handlebars, mine exit on top?
Is that different on the 2010's?



Exit on top:

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Old 05-13-2012, 09:54 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallguy-09 View Post
Is that different on the 2010's?
Yes, this is one of many differences between 2005 - 2007 and 2008+ models.
Notice the bar clamps too, very different from the 2010 that you have.

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Old 05-13-2012, 03:10 PM   #80
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After getting a Russell seat, I knew I'd likely want some risers, so I had purchased a pair from an inmate months ago.

The seat came on Friday. Today I got to go for a ride and, while not as dramatic an angle as I had experienced on other bikes, I still thought I wanted the risers.

Today I installed them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by objectuser's tangent of mechanical woez
In the process, I dropped a Torx socket down between the tank and the forks. (Yes, I am the world's worst mechanic ... or at least the worst on my block.) I could see the socket resting beside some plate with a + like on a battery (and I could see copper coil below that). I got a coat hanger and tried to finesse it out. No joy. I knocked it out of site. Then reaching into the front, I could feel it. Then a thought occurred to me ... I could feel belts. Any thought of leaving it was discarded at that point. I tried a telescoping magnet, but no luck ... in fact I knocked it even lower. Then I noticed the plastic plate on the front. I took that off and felt around and could feel it again. Tried the magnet again and it couldn't get purchase. Then I just started feeling around in there. Eventually I thought I could get a hold of it and ... after fiddling ... voila, I had it. Holy crap am I relieved.
So I have the risers installed, but I didn't move the throttle cable. After the above issue, I was done for the day. I think I'll try to tackle that some time this week. My thought is to do the between-the-posts route.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:12 PM   #81
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I can't tell from the pics, but is the R1200GS bars 7/8 pr 1 1/8?

Cheers
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:33 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikecat View Post
i can't tell from the pics, but is the r1200gs bars 7/8 pr 1 1/8?

Cheers
1 1/8
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:45 AM   #83
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Works great.







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Old 05-27-2012, 06:35 AM   #84
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thanks .. order en route :)
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:05 PM   #85
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Question.. could someone who has moved the throttle cable please advise as to how it is correctly unhooked from handlebar area? And re-attach? much appreciated. Also, as u can see from my photos.. my clutch side, the cables had to come behind (towards rider) my forks. It works, but the "bend" of the clutch braided line, borders on too tight a turn.... any thoughts on that.. I think just loosening that Clutch line and opening it up (turning it counter-clockwise) a bit... that may help the tightness.

Any one who had worked with such problems (year 2012), would be appreciated.


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Old 05-29-2012, 12:17 AM   #86
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347359

Try taking a look at this pictorial done by inmate xq89olp. Took me 25 minutes to move my throttle cable start to finish with this thread. Brilliant simple instructions.
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:43 PM   #87
DownunderBrian
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Rox install on 2012 GS

I installed my Rox Risers last night, following the instructions in this threat. I've got a 2012 12GS triple black (not that color should make any difference.. but you never know with those crazy Germans!)

Risers went on OK. I found that I was able to tighten the torx bolts down fine - I tensioned the small torx (closer to the tank) with a closed wrench (7 or 8mm I think it was) then becuase of the angle of my Rox, I was able to use a socket stright on the front main torx bolt. Have not fully tensioned yet. Less than an hour work to this point.

After reading some recent posts here I was half expecting that my cables would be fine without adjustment, however that was not the case.

My clutch side was seriously tight - could not achieve full lock even after cutting the cable tie up front as per instructions. I followed the clutch cable down the left of the frame to make it "horizontal" per instructions in this threat, but it was already horizontal . BMW is on to us!

I dropped the left front shock (very easy to do, thanks for the guidance on that.. took less than 5 mins) and cable tied the braided clutch line to the small bracket that secures the trottle cable, about the middle of the bike where the throttle cable passes under the fuel tank.

I zip tied it with some free-play left and it seems to be working. Without it the cable was moving all over the place as I went lock to lock, but now it is anchored in the center. That small bracket for the trottle cable is very thin so I'll have to keep an eye on it, but for now looks OK. Lock to lock does not move the bracket at all it seems, so no problem with interferance with the trottle cable.

Tomorrow night I'll do the throttle-cable-under-the-bars trick as described and linked in this threat. Currently I cannot comfortably achieve full right lock without fiddling the throttle cable around with my hand, because the throttle cable is too tight. I see hardpackrider managed to get his working with zip ties.. I'll try that but may just relocate the cable as it sounds like such an easy job.

Looking over the threats again tonight, I think the difference between (a) people being OK with their cables and (b) people having to make adjustments to the cables as I am, comes down to the angle that the rox risers are positioned (and year model of the bike, I'm sure). People with their rox directly upright from the stock risers will have an easier time than people like me that are positioning them at about 45 degrees. Something to keep in mind if you are planning to fit bars. I'm fitting mine more for sitting down touring comfort/reach rather than for standing on the pegs comfort.

Will post pics and final thoughts when I get the throttle cable adjusted and final fitting adjustments/torque down complete (hopefully tomorrow night... if the kids don't have homework I need to help with...).

Thanks all for your previous posts and pics, sure makes it easier for those of us that follow in your footsteps.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:29 PM   #88
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Never did see anyone post the torque values for the fork tube nuts...or did I miss it?
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:09 PM   #89
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Got it. Sorta.


http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/torque.html

Steel handlebars to fork bridge, M8 x 30
1st front, 2nd rear -> gap at rear only (as viewed in forward direction of travel)
21 Nm (15 ft-lbs)

Is this right???:
Fork bridge, top, with fork fixed tube, M10 x 1.25
Replace nut
Mechanical thread lock
40 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:46 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by longtallsally View Post
So there is a really good thread out there with good info in it, but no pics of some of the critical stuff. So I thought I might fill in the gaps a touch. This will be mainly pictorial. For more tech questions go to Jim VonB.

Here they are prior to install:


Before and totally stock:





Fatory switch removed:



Bars removed:



I must be an idiot as I don't think there is any friggin' way to get a torque wrench in there to get this to spec as shown with these:





Here is the initial view of the bars in place:



Taking the caps off the fork tubes:



Loosening the bolt and holding the bottom part stationary with a 19mm wrench (no one else mentioned the size). The upper nut is a 14mm. Just like everyone says, once the nut comes off the top, the fork just slides down. Easy peasy. And just as easy to get it back up.



Initial view of them in there:



Fork tube dropped:



One of the zip ties that had to be clipped close to the ignition key:



Another zip tie needing to be clipped:



My solution for the foglight switch:



I don't see a need to "fix" this any further as the only thing it does is make the key take an extra 2 seconds to pull out. The bike is garaged and I am getting to where I only use it on trips, so the key rarely comes out any more so who cares and it is totally stationary.

Rear view of them in place:



Pics of the wires and cables rereouted:





I'm not nuts about the wires hanging down like they are, but I think they will be OK.

First impressions are that for the first time on a bike I can stand up completely straight. I have not totally finalized the location just yet, but I think I'm close. I put a HUGE amount of weight on them (I'm 220+) and bounced a bit and they seem stable. I'll find out real world in a couple days up in El Dorado in the Sierras.

It's kooky as I feel like I've got ape hangers now, but I think it will by comfy- especially standing up.

I'll report back when I get back as to how they performed. Hope this helps someone out.

im fearing the handlebar will come loose in time, is that possibel? what if you jump or hit a ditch? I need risers and this is a good option, only the way they work, im wondering if anyone had any problems with them? update : i guess not!

can i install them on a 2009 gsa? or only 2010 and up?

2712 screwed with this post 06-14-2012 at 02:03 AM
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