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Old 05-21-2008, 03:14 AM   #1
samfaina OP
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Location: Barcelona, Catalonia
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Wee strom suspension set up

Hello it is the firs time I write so I don't know how it will work out... any way my questio is if any body can give me orientation on how to adjust the suspension of the wee when going solo or 2-up, on higway, mountain roads, off-road, rainy days... I know more or less the theory (or I should say that I have been told diferent theories...) so I would like to be a bit more confused

thaks in advance
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Old 05-21-2008, 06:27 AM   #2
amk
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I am afraid there is not much to set up on wee. Chose preload and rebound on the rear as much comfortable as you can running it over curbs. Chose the correct sag when you seated on the loaded bike by turning the preload dial. Correct sag is ~ 30 mm. Then experiment with rebound, listening to your spine, when riding over curbs, or any other sharp bumps about 15 cm of height. But for the front, unless you go aftermarket, nothing really. Correct sag, again, about ~30 mm loaded, that is it.
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:12 AM   #3
samfaina OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amk
I am afraid there is not much to set up on wee. Chose preload and rebound on the rear as much comfortable as you can running it over curbs. Chose the correct sag when you seated on the loaded bike by turning the preload dial. Correct sag is ~ 30 mm. Then experiment with rebound, listening to your spine, when riding over curbs, or any other sharp bumps about 15 cm of height. But for the front, unless you go aftermarket, nothing really. Correct sag, again, about ~30 mm loaded, that is it.
I see... thanks for the informatio I guess it is a matter of finding the best setup for each one and that is it.
but let me ask: do you guys change the setings often depending on the road ahead? or due to the litle efect of the adjustments that the bike offers you stay with a "do it all" setup?
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:16 AM   #4
Gustavo
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Creo que estas paginas te pueden ayudar:

http://motogear.com.mx/wordpress/?p=28
http://motogear.com.mx/wordpress/?p=13

Saludos,

Gustavo
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Old 05-21-2008, 07:21 AM   #5
samfaina OP
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Gustavo,
Thank you, Gracias!
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Old 05-21-2008, 08:33 AM   #6
PapaWheelie
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Sonic Springs.

OEM springs are progressive wound and do not work well.
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Old 05-22-2008, 02:32 AM   #7
samfaina OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaWheelie
Sonic Springs.

OEM springs are progressive wound and do not work well.

Wll I just wanted to know which is the best position of the preload depending on the road ahead, but is there that much of a difference when changing the OEM springs?
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Old 05-22-2008, 04:13 AM   #8
PeterW
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Set up for commuting - set up the sag to ~30% front and rear, find some potholes/traffic calming measures and play with the damping until it's as smooth as you can make it at about 40kph.

For higher speed roads, up the pre-load and add some damping.
Take the bike around sweepers at ~100kph, increase preload and damping until the bike tracks nicely around corners without wallowing.

Offroad, less pre-load, less damping.
Find a quiet patch of dirt road, and from about 20kph wind on the throttle - reduce preload and damping until the rear stops skipping under acceleration. That's about right.

Note down the settings, or put marks on the adjusters.

I couldn't manage the last bit without suspension work - if you weigh less than me you could do better.

With a Wilbers rear shock - +2 on the damping settings for fanging around the hills , +2 turns of front preload , -3 rear damping for offroad, front preload -1. (No change to rear preload).

As for the progressive/linear spring thing. Linear springs are WONDERFUL on a race track - where you can tune the suspension exactly - less so in real life where the riding conditions vary more.

Progressive springs are more forgiving (and IMO more suited to real life scenarios), linear more exact.

Pete

PeterW screwed with this post 05-22-2008 at 04:19 AM
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:12 AM   #9
samfaina OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterW
Set up for commuting - set up the sag to ~30% front and rear, find some potholes/traffic calming measures and play with the damping until it's as smooth as you can make it at about 40kph.

For higher speed roads, up the pre-load and add some damping.
Take the bike around sweepers at ~100kph, increase preload and damping until the bike tracks nicely around corners without wallowing.

Offroad, less pre-load, less damping.
Find a quiet patch of dirt road, and from about 20kph wind on the throttle - reduce preload and damping until the rear stops skipping under acceleration. That's about right.

Note down the settings, or put marks on the adjusters.

I couldn't manage the last bit without suspension work - if you weigh less than me you could do better.

With a Wilbers rear shock - +2 on the damping settings for fanging around the hills , +2 turns of front preload , -3 rear damping for offroad, front preload -1. (No change to rear preload).

As for the progressive/linear spring thing. Linear springs are WONDERFUL on a race track - where you can tune the suspension exactly - less so in real life where the riding conditions vary more.

Progressive springs are more forgiving (and IMO more suited to real life scenarios), linear more exact.

Pete


Thank you very much! got a lot of testing to do this weekend... thanks!
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