LC4 exhaust info

[NICO]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

NICO,

don't forget that if Cavi does not have a Hi-Flo head the '03- header will not mate with the exhaust outlets. The -'02 Lo-Flo heads have a different spatial arrangement. I know this because Staintune's big bore header will not work with '03- Hi-Flo heads because it was designed for the previous design.

GTFOH.

OK, now you're bumming me out, Meat. I am pretty sure what I put into my body back in college has flushed out by now and I am not imagining what I read. It has been a while since reading it though.

For the time being, I have no problem standing corrected, but I swear I recall the Creep noting this as a viable option to upgrade the older exhausts. Maybe this also involved changing out the exhaust flanges? Maybe?

I'll spend some time looking through the myriad of posts to see if I can come up with something. If not, color me st00pid.

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by NICO

... Maybe this also involved changing out the exhaust flanges? Maybe?

...

I was pretty hot to trot for the Staintune big bore headers and their maintenance-free SS can so I looked into this and the problem is not the flanges, it is the distance between the two exhaust flanges. I didn't buy them and find out but I was still bummed

[NICO]

Damnit, I had a nice response with investigative pics and all but got fooking booted off-line just before I tried to submit the post. Fekkin' internets! I ain't re-typing that sheet.

The gist of it was the part numbers did change from '02-'04 ('03 was shown with the same numbers as the previous year back to at least '97, but I think the fiches on Munn's site are fooked.

If there is a spacing difference, well that throws another wall up to making the swap.

All in all, I should've never inhaled. But I swear I remember this being shown as a viable alternative. Maybe Creeper can chime in as I thought he mentioned it as a possibility, although I don't recall him being certain it'd work.


Cavi, sorry bout the BS mislead.

[Cavi]

Okay I pulled the trigger on an exhaust, I ordered the supertrapp ids2 quietcore. I also ordred a FCR39 to go with it, I plan also on modding the airbox. so jetting? Also how many plates do I run in the supertrapp?

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by Cavi

Okay I pulled the trigger on an exhaust, I ordered the supertrapp ids2 quietcore. I also ordred a FCR39 to go with it, I plan also on modding the airbox. so jetting? Also how many plates do I run in the supertrapp?

Take a look at the threads in the index on setting up your LC4 (creeper's is just below the HOWTOs), and I think there is a thread on the IDS2 that has some chatter on # of discs.

[potatoho]

Originally Posted by Cavi

Okay I pulled the trigger on an exhaust, I ordered the supertrapp ids2 quietcore. I also ordred a FCR39 to go with it, I plan also on modding the airbox. so jetting? Also how many plates do I run in the supertrapp?

I've never dialed in an FCR, but I spent some time with the ids2.

Look at the picture on my last page here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=209038&page=3

That poor flange seal with the ids2 is the main loss of low/mid power. Use some silicone tape or baking sheet or whatnot and wrap it as a seal. Liquid sealants won't do, you have to get hard-core on it.

Mine was a 1999. Looks like I'd settled on 8 discs and the racing cover. User preference on disc count, but 8-10 was a good match for my low flo motor. I adjusted the count to get the best feedback. What I did was I reduced the discs until I couldn't hear a "pappy" sound in the high end, assuming correct air/fuel.

I have to hand it to supertrapp. As much as I hated servicing that thing, it has decent technology. Once the air/fuel was dialed in, and that flange sealed, the thing was super smooth with no bark at all. I am awaiting a custom build (no logo rivets. yay!!!) for my TE450 to see how it measures up.

[666]

Originally Posted by Cavi

Okay I pulled the trigger on an exhaust, I ordered the supertrapp ids2 quietcore. I also ordred a FCR39 to go with it, I plan also on modding the airbox. so jetting? Also how many plates do I run in the supertrapp?

Where did you find quiet core? I looked everywhere and only race version is available.
thx

[Hooked]

I had the chance to upgrade my 2002 Enduro model with the WINGS non oval carbon fiber exhaust. It produced an immediate grin as the stock SuperTrapp can was missing the throaty ripper sound. I installed it in the snow season and when spring finally came around I took it for a ride and what a great improvement. I bought it thru Alternate Cycle in Kamloops. It sounds perfect and performs great. It is pricey $500 Can. But what isn't expensive for the LC4. If you have the cash and can locate a pipe to fit your model, I definitely say GO FOR IT! The workmanship and appearence is awesome. So far very happy with it. Jetting and airbox next. Yee Haw.

[potatoho]

I just finished installing a universal 19" ids2 quiet core onto my 2008 TE450. The available exhausts are all "race" cans which I find particularly useless.

I'm the absolute worst at metalwork, but I managed to frankenstein it together with the connecting pipe from one of my useless cans, and an adapter.

I've only run it for a few minutes, and I'm waiting for some sealant to cure. I usually have to seal up the ids2 t-bolt area pretty good. So far it sounded quite a bit better than the race can. Still loud with 12 discs but more of a white noise sound rather than the bark of an open core. Plus my race can with the sparky insert always made a stupid chirp sound that drove me crazy.

Interestingly the 19" measurement is made from end to end, including the endcap. So this 19" ids2 is still actually shorter than the arrow race can I am replacing. They offer a 16" ids2 as well.

[potatoho]

Here's a side by side of an arrow Husky can and my new 19" ids2.

[Cavi]

I ended up calling supertrapp and they called my local dealer and setup the drop, that was the only way I found to get the quiet core, it does exist just not in the dealers. Also beware the race core costs 249 while the quiet core cost 349. Major difference in cost.
I installed it today along with my FCR. With both the bike was transformed from miled mannered turd to a great dirt bike. The difference is night and day, do not let anyone tell you that there is no real difference in the CV and the FCR powerwise. There is and you will feel it for real.
As for the ISD2, I had a numbeer of problems and complaints in build quality. To start with, the discs, there was no way to get all three bolts on at the same time, the holes were just too small to align them, so I redrilled slightly larger in order to mount them, I also removed the set screw and slid the core part way out to get closer access, but when I went to put it back, the nut inside came loose, I am not too worried as the clamp at the base closes down both on the shell and the core. Next, the mounting brackets on the mid pipe do not line up. Last , the flange on the midpipe that mounts to the bikes S pipe is no where near what anyone would call a tight fit, not even a loose fit, probably not even a good idea to even call it a fit. I will end up with lots of silicone, high temp. All things considered for the price it was a bit of a rip off, but it does work well and sound good.

[potatoho]

Originally Posted by Cavi

As for the ISD2, I had a numbeer of problems and complaints in build quality. To start with, the discs, there was no way to get all three bolts on at the same time, the holes were just too small to align them, so I redrilled slightly larger in order to mount them, I also removed the set screw and slid the core part way out to get closer access, but when I went to put it back, the nut inside came loose, I am not too worried as the clamp at the base closes down both on the shell and the core.

That kinda sucks. The disc holes kinda need to be the original size, as it is the flashing around them that creates the precise air gap. I think so long as you didn't drill away the flashing it would probably be ok. I have had good luck in the 3" disc mounting. I run the screws through the pack while in my hand, then I slosh them in the can and thread the the screws in by hand.

The core might be a problem. I'm one of the adherents towards installing the iconel rivet. There is quite a lot of back pressure involved. I saw a thread on here that even a KLR was able to eject the core when the bolt went missing, and also lack of iconel rivet.

What I did with my new one, is to coat the core bolt and the endcap bolts with "the right stuff" which is a high-temp RTV. Kinda like ultra copper or ultra black, but it's tougher. Then I installed them. This keeps them immune to vibrations. I only tighten about 8 ft lb or so.

Next, the mounting brackets on the mid pipe do not line up. Last , the flange on the midpipe that mounts to the bikes S pipe is no where near what anyone would call a tight fit, not even a loose fit, probably not even a good idea to even call it a fit. I will end up with lots of silicone, high temp. All things considered for the price it was a bit of a rip off, but it does work well and sound good.

It is tough to keep a seal with a baffled exhaust. I know even my new set up has a leak and I have the pieces press fit and t-bolt clamped. It makes a lot of difference towards best performance to have the joints sealed.

In the LC4 application the only way I have found was to use a sleeve method. The pressure is too high for sealants and they will burn and blow out very quickly, leaving you with crap for mid-range power. Use either high-temp silicone tape such as (stretch & seal) or someone had a great idea regarding a silicone baking sheet cut into a strip.

[666]

I ordered Leo Vince with sparky for about 350 including shipping and tax. p/n 3940E. There is not much choise these days for 2000 adv.
I must say that after I fixed vandalized airbox and rejetted(from 160 to 152.5), and installed loaded's mixture screw bike is really happy. And this is with stock can. I almost did endoes couple of times today going up to mt. Hamilton.

[Cavi]

as for the flashing I did remove it on the three holes that the three screws go through, but the other three holes on the plates are still there and they will keep the gap you speak of. As for the screw, I guess I could drill a hole right above the clamp and install a screw to hold the core in its place. I might do this. And yes I will get high temp silicone tomorrow, but even with the bad seal the power still feels amazing. The FCR and this pipe work great.

[potatoho]

Originally Posted by Cavi

as for the flashing I did remove it on the three holes that the three screws go through, but the other three holes on the plates are still there and they will keep the gap you speak of. As for the screw, I guess I could drill a hole right above the clamp and install a screw to hold the core in its place. I might do this. And yes I will get high temp silicone tomorrow, but even with the bad seal the power still feels amazing. The FCR and this pipe work great.

The core nut coming loose sounds like a warrantee issue to me. I had a mount on one ids2 develop a crack after 8 months in use. I called them up and they sent me a new shell free of charge.

Incidentally I use a bit of rubber as a washer on the tab mount. I don't think it liked being hard mounted there.