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Old 06-20-2008, 06:18 AM   #16
buspilot
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Hi, I'm very pleased that you enjoyed your visit to my country!
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:13 AM   #17
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I miss "home"

kepp the pics coming!
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:49 AM   #18
on2wheels52 OP
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Apoligies for dragging this out, let me see if I can string a few days together and get it moving.

Day 4, Sunday
I get an early start and head to Reutte again, passing through Immenstadt and Sonthofen. At 10:00 I stop at a church in a small town. As I approach the entrance a pipe organ is blaring and a five part choir is singing. Clouds of incense smoke rise through the sun-lit apse. Not a Pentecost Sunday for the faint of heart.

I didn’t get a lot out of the sermon but I don’t always at home either.
By now I have adjusted the bars and controls a bit to suit me better and have stored the peg rubbers in the rear. I feel I’ve had the bike for a month. Soon I am in Imst and decide to take the 65km road that ends in Mittelberg. At 1736 meters it’s the highest I’ve been so far.


I backtrack and go a few km east to the Timmelsjoch pass road. I know it is closed by snow (gesperrt) but want to go up as far as possible. I wanted to make sure I sampled a few of the great Alpine roads in case the weather tanked or something came up to cut my ride short. At 2171m my head was cold walking around but I was fine on the bike with the Gerbing cranked up.


I think Mautstelle means tollbooth. Roads like this were a major incentive for taking the trip.


I think this is where I left my Michelin map of Austria that had all my prospective roads traced out. I soon bought another but it was of another make and bigger scale. While I was mapless a young couple from Romania pulled behind me at a turnout and asked if I knew the way to Trostberg in Germany. The map they were using was about like the one of Europe in my sixth grade geography class. I was unable to assist.
It was getting late in the afternoon when I started looking for a zimmer frei in the towns approaching Silz. I rode around there also looking but must have not been in the right neighborhoods. I checked into a pension shortly before dusk, the clerk said they had a small room for 50 euros.

But it did have internet service, which I was on for several hours. This keyboard was the cause for some amusement to those I was emailing.

I got acquainted with my new map and plotted out my desired roads.
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Austria '08 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352082
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on2wheels52 screwed with this post 06-24-2008 at 09:55 AM
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:44 AM   #19
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Day 5
Breakfast isn’t served until 7:30 but it is a buffet affair. I load up on scrambled eggs and meat and cheese. A few other guests are eating also but I don’t hear any English.
I take the autobahn 70km past Innsbruck to Jenbach and head south. At a gas station an english-speaking german rider gives me some local intel (the tall guy).


The monday after White Sunday is a holiday for most people, I have seen many bikes on the roads so far. A lake on the way to Mittersill.

I go through the 5300 meter tunnel on the way south to Huben. There I go west on something of a blue highway to Staller Sattel pass. At Huben I had not seen any sign it would be closed but after some distance I come across a barrier in the right hand lane. But the road has been so great I decide to continue as far as I can. It gets cloudier and I encounter serious snow on the ground.

When I get to the pass (2052 meters) it is obviously closed.


When I get off the bike there is a rider on a dual-sport Yamaha who waves me over from the other side of the barrier. We are equally bi-lingual but he soon indicates he has come up from the Italian side of the pass. There is a place where foot traffic has walked a wandering path down to the asphalt that he rides across and then rides off the way I have just travelled. While I am gearing up a couple on a Guzzi & a Honda pull up. They are ready to turn around but I tell them what the Yamaha rider has told me and that I am going to see how far it goes.
I ride to the other side on the path, the bags scraping against the snow but am through with no great difficulty. They follow behind. There is a narrow section of road for a few kilometers that is one-way; I believe (normal) traffic alternates every 15 minutes.

We continue to the ‘closed’ west end of the pass and easily ride around the barrier.

Near Olang I hit a main road and go east to San Candido, then to Lienz. On the east edge of town I spot a sign for a zimmer frei and soon am talking with the owner. His english is weak but he corrals a young neighbor into translating. At some point he asks when I want breakfast. I say “6 o’clock”. I can see the owner is a bit surprised by the translation but he says he is up then anyway so it’s ok with him. I choose to gig him a bit and ask the translator if I’ll have to wake him up. The owner absorbs this, then laughs and shakes my hand. We have a deal for 20 euro.
He says “put der murchenien here”.

There is a bed in the back. I indicate I would be happy to sleep there. He laughs and shows me my room in the house.
Jim
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Austria '08 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352082
Back to the Alps in '11 http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744205
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:06 AM   #20
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Great stuff - keep it coming!
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:39 AM   #21
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Day 6
My host and his friend

I am on the road south by 6:30, planning to take a back road from Kotschach to Heinfels. I have made a few adjustments to my loading and am thinking I am getting this Alpine thing down as I wasn’t lost once yesterday. I take a right at Kotschach and enjoy the ride. When Heinfels doesn’t show up in 70km I stop at a crossroads to check my location. I don't see the towns on the signpost on my map or even in the index. I have ridden off the edge of the map and have to ask at a (full service) gas station where I am.

Tolmezzo Italy, about 100 km past a second right turn I should have made in Kotschach. It was a great road through Plockenpass however.


By noon I am back in Lienz and ready to head up Grossglockner, at 3798m the highest mountain in Austria. You pay 18 euro for the ride.
I come across a serious snow blower and some snow graffiti.


I’ll only post one of the many great mountain views.

The way down the north side.

I continue north to Bruch and Saalffelden. The road from there to Bischofshofen gets a silver star on the Alpine Roads website. From there I go north to Golling and locate a zf for the night. The floor in the hallway is marble. 27 euro.
I walk downtown and eat a sidewalk café. A couple sit nearby and the first words from the woman reveals her to be from the Midwest US. Another couple and a single guy join them, all Americans. When I finish my meal I walk over and say I hope they didn’t mind me eavesdropping on them, that it was nice to hear some english. They invite me to join them and have another beer. They are in Germany for three months to coach an American style football team in Rosenheim but this is an off week for the team and they are on holiday. They’ve missed the American dialect also. They are interested in a motorcyclist’s perspective as they have been strafed many times during the weekend.
It was still early and I wanted to have a beer in my room. Rather than ordering one to go I had noticed this earlier and wanted to try it out. It was the only one I came across but they may be quite common.


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Austria '08 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352082
Back to the Alps in '11 http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744205
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:53 AM   #22
trialsntribulations
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My last trip through the alps I also went through Staller Sattel, Cortino d'Ampezzo through the Italien Dolomites and then back up through Plockenpass, Grossglockner, Saalfelden, Nock Alm pass - very similar route! Bringing back great memories for me!
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:34 PM   #23
Ze Red Baron
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black font on grey background is very hard to read.

Can you go back and edit your post to change the font color please - I could not read your text.
thanks.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:47 PM   #24
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Red Baron
I'm not sure what to say, anyone else having trouble reading my post? I'm using 'waxy' as it was the most readable to me.
Jim
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:11 PM   #25
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Good Stuff! I spent a few days riding around that area a couple of years ago, great roads & scenery. It's really easy to hire a bike in Munich & go see some of the Alps, even if you only have 2 or 3 days it's possible to bag a few passes.

Your experience on the Staller Sattel reminds me of when I went over the Grossglockner, the lady in the toll booth gave me a detailed explanation of the hazards of the pass while looking at the bike & shaking her head, I didn't understand much more than 'eis und schnee' but nodded & smiled & they let me through there was lots of snow around but the road wasn't bad at all, just wet.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 06-25-2008, 04:40 AM   #26
on2wheels52 OP
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Day 7
From Golling I head east and south to Lammertal, through Abtenau, Annaberg and St. Martin. Then east to Grobming. If there was a sign the Solkpass to Murau was closed I failed to see it. I ride for some distance and come to a barrier in my lane again. I continue around and eventually come across snow in the road.

I make a half-hearted attempt to plow through but as I was on a borrowed bike and on a steep slope I was soon stopped by wheel spin. I dismount and start to kick a path when I hear a whistle from uphill and see clumps of snow heading my way. While I back the bike to a safer spot I see a guy on a bicycle coming up the slope.

I try to find out what he knows about the condition of the pass but we are equally bi-lingual. He carries his bike through the snow while I continue making a path, keeping a wary eye uphill. Soon I have cleared a path and continue on.

I can only go a short distance before I meet the cause of the snow in the road. The whistler does not wish to have his picture taken but is willing to take one of me (you’ve seen enough of my mug).

While I am there the guy on the bike comes back.

I turn around and am faced with a slightly bigger pile of snow this time.

I make my way through, then leave my helmet off and coast several kilometers downhill, perhaps cheating Karl a bit although that wasn’t my goal. At Stein Enns a woman rider gives me a map of a much coarser scale, which becomes quite handy during the rest of the trip. From there I head east to Trieben. There I meet this guy working on the diesel pump of a gas station, who somehow reminds me of a relative of mine.

He confirms that I’m on the correct road to Judenburg. Then it’s into the mountains again.
By mid afternoon I am in Judenburg. I park in the center of town to explore a bit and email. I spend an hour in a motorcycle accessory store talking with a woman who thinks her english is rusty but is really quite good. Her store deals more to the motocross market so I get a feel for that side of riding in Austria after talking with her. I prowl a bit for a zf but soon continue to Weibkirchen where I find the usual flag. It is a working farm and the owner checks with his wife to see if they have a room left. They don’t, but he sends me to Pension Barbara, a half km away. Meanwhile I have been talking to a guy from Boston who has an IH tractor torn apart. I tell him I will return in the morning.
Jim
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Austria '08 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352082
Back to the Alps in '11 http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744205
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:41 AM   #27
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Awesome trip. I would love to do this someday.
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:44 PM   #28
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You left off on day 7. Where is the rest? What did you think about the new F650GS? Don't leave us hanging!!!
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Old 06-27-2008, 06:53 AM   #29
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Wow, still a lot of snow on Sölkpass; I passed by there a week earlier and saw the "closed" signs, wondering.
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Old 06-27-2008, 07:09 AM   #30
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Awesome report. I am from Golling (living in Wisconsin now). You ate at my favorite watering hole (Cafe Maier?)...funny thing is, I grew up there but never toured the country on a bike. I guess I never thought of it as anything special....now I think I'll go back and put a trip together similar to yours.
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