Oz/ Kiwi Ktm 690 Riders Thread

[podge NT]

Originally Posted by Big Willy

Done a bit of reading and it turns out that this is a very good oil... a group IV which basically means that it contains no Viscosity Improvers (the chemicals that get broken down and turn to sludge)
Probably not as good as the Penrite 10 tenths Racing 15w/50 that is made up of group IV and group V oils from what I've read, but both should be quite ok...not that I'm recommending them as KTM specifically recommend the Motorex voodoo
Here's an interesting article which helps clarify a few things...
Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

The best oil for a 690 is Motorex 10w60. Do you have a problem with using the right oil just to save a buck?

[Oz-Strom]

Yeah Podge, I do use the Moterex oil. But was wondering if there was an equivalent that is readily available. It is not always easy to get the Motorex in my area. End of oil discussion

[Big Willy]

Not so fast there Graham...
I don't enjoy being reamed
If there is a cheaper altrrnative, I'm all for it.
I'll personally be trying the Castrol next oil change.

[mickd]

Originally Posted by Oz-Strom

Yeah Podge, I do use the Moterex oil. But was wondering if there was an equivalent that is readily available. It is not always easy to get the Motorex in my area. End of oil discussion

motorex is in most bike shops in brisbane

[MymoJoe]

Originally Posted by Big Willy

Not so fast there Graham...
I don't enjoy being reamed
If there is a cheaper altrrnative, I'm all for it.
I'll personally be trying the Castrol next oil change.

I used a car oil years ago as I was low on oil and it was all I could get, I fried a clutch in a few hundred K's. It had a friction modifier in the car oil.. turns out the friction plates in a clutch didn't like being modified...

I have run Dello 400 in a few bikes and like it, it does seem to go off quicker than a full synth motorbike oil... with super slick gear changes to start with, turning into a bit notchy after a while.. change the oil and the slick changes are back...

[Big Willy]

Originally Posted by mortaygo

I used a car oil years ago as I was low on oil and it was all I could get, I fried a clutch in a few hundred K's. It had a friction modifier in the car oil.. turns out the friction plates in a clutch didn't like being modified...

I have run Dello 400 in a few bikes and like it, it does seem to go off quicker than a full synth motorbike oil... with super slick gear changes to start with, turning into a bit notchy after a while.. change the oil and the slick changes are back...

Hey Joe...yep I've heard a few stories like that and don't doubt it but I've tried plenty with no ill effects.
The 0w/30's are a definite no no as are the cheap car oils like GTX and GTX2.
I've used plenty of Delo and still do but really it's not all it's cracked up to be (no pun intended you oil boffins). Best thing about it is the price for the quality you get so you can afford to drop it more often and purge your motor of all the debris

[Seth S]

The supposed reason for the motorex in the 690 had to do with a high silver content in the bearings...or something along those lines. I have stuck with the motorex given the oil change intervals and I don't think its that expensive...in my end of the world. That said there are people running different oil with no ill effects so far.

[Big Willy]

13 litres going cheap in WA if you're quick...

Motorex oil cross power 4T 10w/60 KTM HUSABERG | Parts | Gumtree Australia Rockingham Area - Baldivis

[B2]

Originally Posted by Big Willy

13 litres going cheap in WA if you're quick...

Motorex oil cross power 4T 10w/60 KTM HUSABERG | Parts | Gumtree Australia Rockingham Area - Baldivis

I will grab it but can you pick it up 4 me biggus '-] good buy considering its $100 plus for a 4 ltr bottle

[fearless phill]

Originally Posted by johnno950

hi joe,another local cq gent.He bought this one a few months ago and just got it on the road rego/etc.Its a very tidy bike and super strong engine....great day!

hey johnno 3 weeks off for me over christmas should try to get out for a ride

[El Ponkin]

Big Wills,

This is my attempt at making the evo airbox cover sit better to make a more even seal with the filter and prevent dust ingress.

I made up an endplate out of ally with a slot to take the new retaining plate. The endplate is bolted through the flat part of the airbox and lots of silastic to seal.



Also put bolts and spacers through the top flange.



Little spreader plates for the screws to bear down on just araldited on.



Retainer plate made out of 2mm ally with reinforcing angles to stop any bowing. Lip at the front to engage in the cut out in the front plate. Drilled and tapped for the allen headed bolts which will be the adjustable bearers, each with a lock nut to retain the preset position. Filed cutouts to allow for the reinforcing fins on the evo cover.



Locate the filter, cover and retaining plate in position and locate / tighten rear screws.



Screw down bearer allen screws to press on the cover and set to the appropriate amount of squeeze. Lock up the locknuts.



All fits in and no problems with seat, just had to shuffle the wiring near the radiator and reroute the overflow to make room for the additional front plate on the airbox.



It was a pigs arse to make and I trimmed some of the big plastic web which is part of the evo cover in order to get the retaining plate into position. Hopefully should be still OK to remove and clean the filter in situ with the airbox fitted but I haven’t tried yet. And before you ask no, make your own, it took ages to get it right, hopefully you can figure it out from the piccies.

[Mudguts]

I just use grease it works well and easy and cheap

[ADV-Wes]

Originally Posted by Mudguts

I just use grease it works well and easy and cheap

Works for me. I run a foam filter and Marine Grease around the seal. Always have on all my bikes going back to the MX days. Makes for a good seal if you use just the right amount, and sticky as shit to a blanket.

[Oz-Strom]

That is quite the engineering effort Andy. I do wonder if it is all really worth it performance wise over the std foam filter and drilled snorkel cover, but maybe it is? Does that mean lots of screws to remove to get the airfilter out? Mine just has 2 self tappers to remove and it's out.

Like your work though!

[El Ponkin]

As Big Willy previously mentioned the evo cover bows in the middle and even with my foam filter and tons of sticky grease i still got a fine dust inside on a particularly dusty ride. I like the evo lid as it gives extra airflow but without the induction noise of something like the rally raid filter. In theory once the bearer screws are set I should just be able to undo the two rear screws and it will all lift out and refit as normal.

Its one of those things, I chose the evo cover and didn't want to spend more money on another option and apart from labour the mod didn't cost me anything really just left over scraps in the shed.
Andy