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Old 10-05-2013, 02:51 AM   #4531
El Ponkin
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They suggest putting some lockwire to hold the two halves of the plastic shroud together as some have had the clips come undone and the pump has bounced around in the tank.
Did you get the profill filter to fit whilst there as the stocker is too course a mesh and also as a hole in the pump base.
Also make sure the electrical spade connectors on the pump are a tight fit just pull them off and give them a squeeze with the pliers before refitting.
I normally use a piece of welding rod to tuck the pipes upwards as I feed the pump in, just make sure the pump flange goes to the fully seated position without any springback then you know you haven't kinked a hose.
Andy
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:50 AM   #4532
shaun66
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Mesh on the pump looked pretty fine & i didn't see any hole in the bottom of the pump. But i will pull off again & check tomorrow.
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:10 AM   #4533
Big Willy
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I don't think the 12 and later models had the hole in the bottom from what I've read.
Seems like that hole might have caused a lot of the problems that we've heard about.
Do you find that your Safari tank rubs on the forward seat brackets?
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:10 AM   #4534
El Ponkin
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Yeh sorry if it is post 12 there is no hole.
Also you may want to change to the Canam Filter now you have it external as the Canam is metal body and the plastic ones can be a bit vulnerable.
Andy
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Old 10-05-2013, 04:34 PM   #4535
shaun66
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Haven't got the tank on BW, thats mondays project.
"13 model El Ponko, do you have a part No for the canam filter.
Cheers
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Old 10-05-2013, 05:41 PM   #4536
Mudguts
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Pro flow make an external filter 10m 30m & 70micron serviceable about $70
It nice and small autobahn might stock but can order them in
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:36 PM   #4537
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I will be putting a load of parts on ebay tonight { two hard for me to to put that many on fleabay here } if yas wan't to keep an eye out - scotts steering damper, windscreen , panier racks , upper and lower tank bolts dummy switch, thermo switch, front sprocket cover, rear rack etc
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:25 AM   #4538
shaun66
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You couldn't be more correct, the fit is terrible. The tank sits way to the right, i think to give clearence for the temp switch in the radiator. It sits that far right that with only 1mm clearence between switch & tank, the forks hit the tank on the l/h side when the handle bars are turned left.
Nothing i can't fix. The tank needs a recess moulded into it for the switch.
The fit on my bike is that bad i would say the people at Safari tanks have never fitted one to a '13 690.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrwocky117 View Post
I'm interested as well. Safari tank on my '09 R fitted like a dream. New tank on my '13 not such a good fit. Need to go to the left about 15mm on the seat mount. The spacing at the forks was in consistent, too close one side.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:41 AM   #4539
johnno950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaun66 View Post
Haven't got the tank on BW, thats mondays project.
"13 model El Ponko, do you have a part No for the canam filter.
Cheers
Dont know part number but am told is same as used on 570 burgers that have been raced in oz safari etc,sub $30 dollar item.Couldnt see the part/no on the one on my 570
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Old 10-06-2013, 03:42 AM   #4540
El Ponkin
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Canam filter P/N 709-000-100 about $27.
Andy
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:30 AM   #4541
Big Willy
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Been a bit busy trying to sort out my rear shock.

I've decided to try a bit of revalving myself for the first time. Idea is to swap a few shims around, fill with oil, pump the piston up to 200psi with compressed air. If it feels good, I'll get it nitrogen charged.

So I had to make an adaptor for a bicycle Presta valve as the nitrogen filling hole is too close to the petrol tank.



Fits nice and snug. Hope it doesn't leak



The lower shock bearing is prone to seizure. When this happens, the shock shaft wears the lower shaft bearing causing leakage.

These bearings are expensive from KTM. The aftermarket ones don't seem to be as wide as the genuine so I decided to help the original out with some lube instead.

The bearing is a spherical type and has a bronze liner.

The outer part is mild steel so was easily drillable



Then drilled a fine hole through the alloy clevis





The idea is shoot a shot of WD40 down there every so often and maybe plug it up with a bit of silicone each time.

I'd recommend the least that should be done is undoing the lower bolt every so often and try to get some WD behind the rubber washers
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:50 AM   #4542
DRjoe
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Nice work
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:11 AM   #4543
Cruz
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Don't you find WD dries out too fast and doesn't lubricate?
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:18 AM   #4544
shaun66
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you have gone that far, why not tap a thread & put a grease nipple in.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:38 AM   #4545
Big Willy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruz View Post
Don't you find WD dries out too fast and doesn't lubricate?
No, not really Cruz. It's not kerosine as some used to think. It's fish oil and we all know how slippery them critters are

Besides, the bronze is probably oil impregnated.

The WD is really to help prevent corrosion and get rid of moisture.
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