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Old 01-20-2014, 11:56 PM   #4786
Hoots
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Yeah I had to glue one back in. There is a photo of an air box on the k&n website and they look to be flush.
My lid sits up at the back when it's located correctly in the front due to the height of the rubber part of the filter being so thick

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Sorry, I think I misunderstood your question ...

I'll check mine and get back to you ...
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:55 AM   #4787
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Nah I think we're on the same page ;)
These pics are with the older 2 pod uni filter. Its a better fit than the new one.
I will trim a little off where the tabs go.
Sits up at the back here




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Old 01-21-2014, 01:20 AM   #4788
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I used 2 part plastic epoxy glue to glue one of mine back in after I cross threaded the hold down bolt and jammed it, that one was stronger than the original

After that I also tapped the brass bush out to make the hold down bolt a nice easy loose fit and kept them lubed with silicone grease, this helped and I always just did them up nice and finger snug only.

When all that fails the mod people do and put a bolt up through the brass bush from the inside of the box nice and sealed and then a wing nut down from the top to tighten down on the lid is a fine solution to me, and probably better than that stupid original design.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post
Nah I think we're on the same page ;)
These pics are with the older 2 pod uni filter. Its a better fit than the new one.
I will trim a little off where the tabs go.
Sits up at the back here




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Old 01-21-2014, 12:09 PM   #4789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mezcal View Post

Nah I think we're on the same page ;)
These pics are with the older 2 pod uni filter. Its a better fit than the new one.
I will trim a little off where the tabs go.
Sits up at the back here
Those threaded brass fittings need to be pushed back down into the plastic housing - the serrated area you can see on the top is one of the surfaces that is designed to hold the fitting in the plastic hole - so should be invisible ...

I squashed mine back in with multigrips, which seemed to work OK - the left hand one hasn't gone quite back to flush (see pic), but didn't want to apply too much force ...

The bolt with wingnut solution (or something along those lines) would be smart and you'd probably thank yourself for doing it ...

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Old 01-21-2014, 12:23 PM   #4790
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Thanks for the tips, will get onto it
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:22 AM   #4791
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Looking for a 690

Hiya,
I used to have a 640ADv but sold it awhile ago before going overseas for a bit. I'm looking at the 690 and have just spent a few days reading this thread so much info, i like the look of the RR front tanks and fairing.
Saw this one in Sydney seems a bit pricey aren't the fairing and tanks around 3k all up.
sorry pic didn't work but asking $17k for a 2011 model with RR front tanks.




What prices are new 0km 2011-2012 bikes supposed to be?
Thanks for any help

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Old 01-22-2014, 01:08 AM   #4792
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Sounds a little pricey for a 2011, the kit with it might go 4k with postage and sticker kits though. Was it at suttos in penrith?

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Old 01-22-2014, 02:38 AM   #4793
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Sounds a little pricey for a 2011, the kit with it might go 4k with postage and sticker kits though. Was it at suttos in penrith?

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I bet it was ...

It is expensive - the 2012-13 model is a fair bit different to the 2011 - and the 2014 will be different again - given that, hard to expect to get a high price for a 2011 model now - if it's the bike we're thinking of, those are also the older style of Rally Raid tanks / fairing - i.e. EVO-1 - the newer style (EVO-2) is quite different.

Check out Bike Sales / Bike Point if you want to get an idea of new prices and prices for modded bikes ...

Canberra Motorcycle Centre (02 6280 4491) have one 2013 left on the floor - can't recall their price, but it's a big saving - not a demo - brand new bike - they're a good mob to deal with ...
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:33 AM   #4794
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Hiya

Yeah its the Suttos one I thought it was a bit rich looks like old exhaust as well nothing else done but bolt on some plastic and then the battery will be fracked, in a few months.
Would the 2013- 14 ones go for 14k new? I have checked bikesales and big range in prices people think they can get 100% back on their farkles, there is a 2010 wants 16k better to buy new and add the stuff I want i guess.
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:07 PM   #4795
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Originally Posted by maccajim View Post
Yeah its the Suttos one I thought it was a bit rich looks like old exhaust as well nothing else done but bolt on some plastic and then the battery will be fracked, in a few months.
Would the 2013- 14 ones go for 14k new? I have checked bikesales and big range in prices people think they can get 100% back on their farkles, there is a 2010 wants 16k better to buy new and add the stuff I want i guess.
2013 and 2014 are completely different bikes - 2014 is not yet in the shops (I don't think) - no idea of its cost, but it has a few more complexities (e.g. ABS).

If you want to know prices for new 2012-13 models, you'll just have to call a few dealers - many (e.g. Canberra MC Centre) will be wanting to offload their 2013 (and possibly 2012) stock before the new bike arrives - could be some cheap bikes out there.

Buying new vs used is a separate decision - can often put a bit of pressure on people for discount on farkles - but again, you've got to work out what you want then ask around.
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:35 PM   #4796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maccajim View Post
Yeah its the Suttos one I thought it was a bit rich looks like old exhaust as well nothing else done but bolt on some plastic and then the battery will be fracked, in a few months.
Would the 2013- 14 ones go for 14k new? I have checked bikesales and big range in prices people think they can get 100% back on their farkles, there is a 2010 wants 16k better to buy new and add the stuff I want i guess.
I'm very biased but after buying a new 690 and doing exactly that ^^, I now realise I made the wrong decision. Probably a very personal thing (depentant on personal circumstance and $$) but finding a low K's, well looked after bike with a few thousand dollars worth of well thought out farkles will definately help out the wallet and let you hit the trails/long trips straight away. That being said, that bike for 16K is taking it a bit far IMO.
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Old 01-27-2014, 12:45 PM   #4797
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Seat Concepts seat on the flea market if anyone is interested ...

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=132
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:13 PM   #4798
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Broke my brake pedal on a three day Vic High Country ride. Stupid mistake, but hey we all have few moments of brain fade on the trails. See the video on the link http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=950255



As things are a little tight at the moment money wise - thought i would have a go at repair rather than forking out another $200 for a replacement part.

Its made from a stainless steel shelving bracket i found on the hard rubbish and knocked up this pedal that i think will do the job fine until my next off.



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Old 01-30-2014, 12:19 PM   #4799
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Good cheap functional fix, I would add a brake snake too..
I bent mine a while ago too. When I get a new one it will be of a billet variety along with a brake snake.
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:40 AM   #4800
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2014 model when

hiya,
I have been looking at the 690 lately and there are not many second hand ones around, 8 total on bikesales. Do you guys have any idea when the 2014 comes out and what approx retail will be? I'm getting itchy to make an offer on a 2011 model with tanks, or see if 2013 go down in price.

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