Reviving Aluminum Engine Cases

ALS650L · 07-01-2008, 05:45 PM

The engine and cases on my 71 SL350 are really dingy. I'd like to clean them up so the look more like they should. Does anybody have any tips, tools, or chemicals for doing so? I'm not going for factory fresh look but I'd like them a bit better. On another side note but not completely unrelated, does anybody know where to get repro tank and side cover decals for old bikes?

msells · 07-01-2008, 07:00 PM

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/revie...osolReview.htm is really good. A bit pricey but works very well and a tube lasts a long time. You will need lots of rags. I apply it with a toothbrush and remove it with blue shop rags at first to remove the worst stuff. The towels will turn black as you work so turn 'em a lot. After a few rounds I switch to using a buff mounted on an electric drill to remove it. I believe it's possible to polish something with it a bunch and eventually not have the removal rag turn black.

drhach · 07-02-2008, 05:37 AM

Some of the older Japanese bikes had a clear-coat of paint on them. Assuming that that is not the case here (no pun intnended). I have heard people mention Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner in the past. I finally bought some and figured I'd give it a try. All I can say is that it works great. You just ahve to make sure that you do a good job of washing it off. Otherwise, it will leave a film that turns white. Basically it is acid. If I remember correctly it is HCL. Good stuff. I made the mistake couple of years ago of trying oven cleaner on my Airhead and the engine has never really been the same. The aluminum turned blackish and it just wouldn't clean up. This stuff brought it right out.

England-Kev · 07-02-2008, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALS650L

does anybody know where to get repro tank and side cover decals for old bikes?

http://www.sunrisegraphics.co.uk/

Kevin..

ALS650L · 07-02-2008, 02:16 PM

Cool, thanks for the info so far. I think at one time the cases may have had a clear on them but they certainly don't anymore. I'd like to just beadblast it or something but I'd have to tear it down and it was recently rebuilt.

Cogswell · 07-02-2008, 07:51 PM

I used the Eagle One product on my bike with good results. Heat seems to help a bit and be sure to have plenty of water to rinse available.

Mike

nowhereman · 07-03-2008, 12:19 AM

+1 on the mag wheel etcher/cleaner stuff. You can get it at kragens / pep boys. It really does work very well, especially if you combine it with a scotchbrite or two. As all others have said - rinse rinse rinse. The stuff is acid and will most likely damage paint, your hands, the environment, your general sense of well-being. But hey, you'll have spotless cases.

Reryder · 07-03-2008, 02:24 AM

I bought a metal polishing kit cheap at my local hardware store. It had two 4-inch diameter rag buffing wheels you put in your pistol drill and two bars of coarse and fine buffing compound.
Worked a treat on my 30 year old Harley Sportster cases etc.
Heaps easier and quicker than hand polishing. Wish I had bought one 30 years ago.

Then I finish it off by hand with the aforementioned Solvol Autosol polish.
Mothers aluminium polish from the auto store is quite good for finishing too, but not as shiney as Autosol.

Acid mag wheel cleaner first will get rid of deep staining and that crusty white stuff etc.

07-01-2008, 05:45 PM	#1
ALS650L ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2008 Oddometer: 144	Reviving Aluminum Engine Cases The engine and cases on my 71 SL350 are really dingy. I'd like to clean them up so the look more like they should. Does anybody have any tips, tools, or chemicals for doing so? I'm not going for factory fresh look but I'd like them a bit better. On another side note but not completely unrelated, does anybody know where to get repro tank and side cover decals for old bikes? __________________

07-02-2008, 02:16 PM	#5
ALS650L ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2008 Oddometer: 144	Cool, thanks for the info so far. I think at one time the cases may have had a clear on them but they certainly don't anymore. I'd like to just beadblast it or something but I'd have to tear it down and it was recently rebuilt. __________________

07-02-2008, 07:51 PM	#6
Cogswell Spudly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Riding with my pal Richard Cranium Oddometer: 3,253	I used the Eagle One product on my bike with good results. Heat seems to help a bit and be sure to have plenty of water to rinse available. Mike __________________ Cogswell Rides To Big Bend See my airhead project here Time Warp Vintage Motorcycle Club The good thing is, your damn motor can't read. If it says oil on the container, it's pretty much OK to dump in there.... ED.

07-03-2008, 12:19 AM	#7
nowhereman I'm lost -don't follow me Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Muscat, Sultanate of Oman Oddometer: 386	+1 on the mag wheel etcher/cleaner stuff. You can get it at kragens / pep boys. It really does work very well, especially if you combine it with a scotchbrite or two. As all others have said - rinse rinse rinse. The stuff is acid and will most likely damage paint, your hands, the environment, your general sense of well-being. But hey, you'll have spotless cases. __________________ 1990 R100GSPD 1964 LI125S with a 240 MRB kit

07-03-2008, 02:24 AM	#8
Reryder Onward through the fog... Joined: Sep 2007 Location: Cairns, Oz Oddometer: 1,395	I bought a metal polishing kit cheap at my local hardware store. It had two 4-inch diameter rag buffing wheels you put in your pistol drill and two bars of coarse and fine buffing compound. Worked a treat on my 30 year old Harley Sportster cases etc. Heaps easier and quicker than hand polishing. Wish I had bought one 30 years ago. Then I finish it off by hand with the aforementioned Solvol Autosol polish. Mothers aluminium polish from the auto store is quite good for finishing too, but not as shiney as Autosol. Acid mag wheel cleaner first will get rid of deep staining and that crusty white stuff etc. __________________ '77 Harley Ironhead 6,000 miles across Oz http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527966 Reryder (AKA Hopper) 1977 Harley Sportster 81 BMWR100RS 01 HONDA VFR800 99 SV650 Ancient Harley 45, Snortster (Sporty engine in a Norton), Norton Atlas, Honda 350/4, Ariel HS scrambler

07-01-2008, 07:00 PM	#2
msells Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Sep 2003 Location: Canton, Georgia, USA Oddometer: 172	http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/revie...osolReview.htm is really good. A bit pricey but works very well and a tube lasts a long time. You will need lots of rags. I apply it with a toothbrush and remove it with blue shop rags at first to remove the worst stuff. The towels will turn black as you work so turn 'em a lot. After a few rounds I switch to using a buff mounted on an electric drill to remove it. I believe it's possible to polish something with it a bunch and eventually not have the removal rag turn black.

07-02-2008, 05:37 AM	#3
drhach gorillamanufacturing.com Joined: Nov 2006 Location: Waukegan Oddometer: 1,878	Some of the older Japanese bikes had a clear-coat of paint on them. Assuming that that is not the case here (no pun intnended). I have heard people mention Eagle One Etching Mag Wheel Cleaner in the past. I finally bought some and figured I'd give it a try. All I can say is that it works great. You just ahve to make sure that you do a good job of washing it off. Otherwise, it will leave a film that turns white. Basically it is acid. If I remember correctly it is HCL. Good stuff. I made the mistake couple of years ago of trying oven cleaner on my Airhead and the engine has never really been the same. The aluminum turned blackish and it just wouldn't clean up. This stuff brought it right out.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode