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Old 06-05-2014, 12:57 PM   #1
darthslayer OP
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Puke Vibration from gearbox @takeoffs - R1150GS - 2000

Hey Guys

I bought my dream bike(R1150gs of course ) recently, but it seems like she creates new habbits like creating vibration at takeoffs. It contiunes untill full engagement of the clutch. After the engagement no vibration/no slipping occurs. I've checked the forum and there is a guy with new clutch replacement has encountered the same issue but as far as I know it has been approx 10k km from the replacement of clutch.

So any ideas about the issue? I dont want to remove the complete gearbox without being completely sure about it.

Thanks for the help
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:05 PM   #2
Mega watt maker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthslayer View Post
Hey Guys

I bought my dream bike(R1150gs of course ) recently, but it seems like she creates new habbits like creating vibration at takeoffs. It contiunes untill full engagement of the clutch. After the engagement no vibration/no slipping occurs. I've checked the forum and there is a guy with new clutch replacement has encountered the same issue but as far as I know it has been approx 10k km from the replacement of clutch.

So any ideas about the issue? I dont want to remove the complete gearbox without being completely sure about it.

Thanks for the help
If Id have to guess....and I do.....Id say that whoever put the new clutch in, did not align the paint marks correctly, and the clutch pack is out of balance.

If this is the case....it aint a good thing, cause sooner, or later (if your luck is like mine....it will be VERY soon)it will ruin the rear main bearing and seal. Easy 'nough to fix, just gotta pull the tranny back off, and clutch pack, and align the marks correctly, then reassemble....a good afternoons work, provided you lay off the beer till the job is done!


OR.....I could be talking completely out of my ass, and its another issue!

Good luck and please post what you find out.
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:37 PM   #3
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You say the clutch was replaced 10,000 km ago? If the new clutch was ceramic or sintered, you might be experiencing chudder. Those kinds of clutches will do that.
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:13 PM   #4
def
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darth, please clarify, was your clutch replaced 10k ago?

If so, I would go back in and see whats wrong.
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Old 06-05-2014, 03:15 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Mega watt maker View Post
If Id have to guess....and I do.....Id say that whoever put the new clutch in, did not align the paint marks correctly, and the clutch pack is out of balance.

If this is the case....it aint a good thing, cause sooner, or later (if your luck is like mine....it will be VERY soon)it will ruin the rear main bearing and seal. Easy 'nough to fix, just gotta pull the tranny back off, and clutch pack, and align the marks correctly, then reassemble....a good afternoons work, provided you lay off the beer till the job is done!


OR.....I could be talking completely out of my ass, and its another issue!

Good luck and please post what you find out.
Hmm... It seems like a trip to the mechanic, because in my current home I lack of space to do the maintanence. Which also the visit will be costly...
Also another question, I checked the advwisdom and guys said that clutch plates must be marked before the disassembly of the clutch. In my current condition, it's already misalligned. Can you explain a little bit more about the subject?


Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
darth, please clarify, was your clutch replaced 10k ago?

If so, I would go back in and see whats wrong.
I'm considering to ask the previous owner to find out the approx time. I hope he would be honest with me about the subject. Considering that I already bought the bike
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthslayer View Post
Hmm... It seems like a trip to the mechanic, because in my current home I lack of space to do the maintanence. Which also the visit will be costly...
Also another question, I checked the advwisdom and guys said that clutch plates must be marked before the disassembly of the clutch. In my current condition, it's already misalligned. Can you explain a little bit more about the subject?




I'm considering to ask the previous owner to find out the approx time. I hope he would be honest with me about the subject. Considering that I already bought the bike
A new clutch pack will have paint marks form the factory indicating where the heaviest part of the rotating part is, the fly wheel should also have a paint mark. The idea is to align these marks up so they are 120 degrees apart, hence getting the clutch assembly into balance. If the marks are not 120 degrees apart (they will never be exactly 120 apart, but you can get them close enough), or the paint marks are assembled "lined up"(IE matched together with zero degrees of separation) , it will create a heavy section on the assembly that will cause a vibration at high RPM, which I suspect is what you have. All clutch assemblies have the paint marks from the factory.....just carefully clean the pack till you find them, and avoid using any cleaner or chemical that will remove paint or you just screwed yourself in a painful way!

You feel the vibration with the clutch pulled....but its still there with the clutch engaged....its just being absorbed by the larger mass of the engine and tranny....and causing slow but steady damage to the rear main bearings...and likely other expensive and hard to replace parts as well.
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:19 PM   #7
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Why 120 degrees and not 180?

Does that match crank journal spacing?
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:36 PM   #8
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couldn't this be caused by replacing the disk only and using the existing plate with irregular surface?
asking b/c I'm thinking about a disk only clutch job @120k.
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:54 PM   #9
def
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couldn't this be caused by replacing the disk only and using the existing plate with irregular surface?
asking b/c I'm thinking about a disk only clutch job @120k.
I am interested to know why you think you'll be able to get away with replacement of the clutch disk only. Has your bike had a new clutch previously?

Have you looked at the disk through the starter hole? Hope it is disk only for you.
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:56 PM   #10
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You say the clutch was replaced 10,000 km ago? If the new clutch was ceramic or sintered, you might be experiencing chudder. Those kinds of clutches will do that.
I'll bet you're correct. A new BMW disk might just be the ticket.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:04 PM   #11
def
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Why 120 degrees and not 180?
Because BMW says so. Also, I don't believe that the bolt pattern would allow 180 orientation.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:08 PM   #12
def
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Hmm... It seems like a trip to the mechanic, because in my current home I lack of space to do the maintanence. Which also the visit will be costly...
Some BMW owners repair their motorcycle in the kitchen or living room. I remember I rebuilt my Triumph TR6C in my dormitory room at college. Most of my homework papers had oil on them.
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:16 PM   #13
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Because BMW says so. Also, I don't believe that the bolt pattern would allow 180 orientation.
Ahhhh...asked and answered...thanks def!
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:54 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by def View Post
I am interested to know why you think you'll be able to get away with replacement of the clutch disk only. Has your bike had a new clutch previously?

Have you looked at the disk through the starter hole? Hope it is disk only for you.
I don't know if i could get away with disk only, don't have enough knowledge on the matter.
It was replaced at 80k now at 200. Planning on using the 80k Trans-rebuilt & new disk, prob won't happen till winter, i think.
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