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Old 04-05-2013, 11:53 PM   #31
VietHorse
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Or www.cyclenutz.com He is an inmate here.
Jim
Thanks Jim. It's exactly the one.
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Old 04-06-2013, 02:14 AM   #32
crazyhawk99
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CycleNutz.com

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From which website I could buy one for 1200gs? I have tried http://ww2.fuzeblock.com/ and it showed up several links which are not really related.
Thanks.
You may also want to try CycleNutz. Good customer service. I think they are also active on this forum.

http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuse-Panel-Relays_c_38.html
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:24 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Or www.cyclenutz.com He is an inmate here.

I have done two in the last month. My bike:



My friend's bike today:


Jim
Does the "trigger" wire source (the diagnostic plug) cause the switched outlets to stay powered after turning the bike off?

I am currently using a lead off an accessory port to serve as the trigger for my fuseblock and I find it a bit annoying that it stays powered up for a couple of minutes after the bike is turned off.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:38 AM   #34
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Waterproofing

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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
It really isn't an issue. Guys have been doing it for years on the 1100/1150 bikes.

The only thing I would do different is use liquid rubber tape on the back of the fuzebox instead of regular electrical tape. The regular electrical tape will peal off leaving a sticky mess when it gets hot.

Jim
This is also good and spray on, there's a variety of them available, Jim's right the tape not so good...
http://usledsupply.com/shop/electro-...g4736891thiqu2
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Old 04-06-2013, 08:04 AM   #35
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Nice installs guys, looks great!
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:33 PM   #36
JimVonBaden
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Originally Posted by bobframe View Post
Does the "trigger" wire source (the diagnostic plug) cause the switched outlets to stay powered after turning the bike off?

I am currently using a lead off an accessory port to serve as the trigger for my fuseblock and I find it a bit annoying that it stays powered up for a couple of minutes after the bike is turned off.
That is the advantage of the switched wire going to the diagnostic plug. On and off with the key.



Jim
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:11 AM   #37
VietHorse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
That is the advantage of the switched wire going to the diagnostic plug. On and off with the key.



Jim
Jim,
Did you meant the FuzeBlock will connect the Positive wire to that Green wire??
I have just installed my BlueSea fuse-block and both Positive+Negative connected to the Battery, which I don't like.
I just don't know where to connect to use the Ignition key to energize the BlueSea block.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:38 AM   #38
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Jim,
Did you meant the FuzeBlock will connect the Positive wire to that Green wire??
I have just installed my BlueSea fuse-block and both Positive+Negative connected to the Battery, which I don't like.
I just don't know where to connect to use the Ignition key to energize the BlueSea block.
The positive and negative connections to the FuzeBlock should run straight to the battery positive terminal. The trigger wire to energize the relay in order to make the positive connection "hot" within the FuzeBlock is being connected to the green/blue wire in the photo.

Does your Blue Sea block have a relay built into it like the FuzeBlock? If not the only way to energize your BlueSea system when the ignition is on is to add a relay that is triggered to a circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on.
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Old 06-30-2013, 06:40 AM   #39
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A big thanks to everyone on this thread who has shown pictures of their install. I'll be wiring one today and you all have given me some ideas of how to make my install a little cleaner.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:08 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by JM View Post
The positive and negative connections to the FuzeBlock should run straight to the battery positive terminal. The trigger wire to energize the relay in order to make the positive connection "hot" within the FuzeBlock is being connected to the green/blue wire in the photo.

Does your Blue Sea block have a relay built into it like the FuzeBlock? If not the only way to energize your BlueSea system when the ignition is on is to add a relay that is triggered to a circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on.
No, I don't think the relay included with the BlueSea block.
Talking about adding another relay to blah blah,... is really hard part to me. My electrical knowledge sucks.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:11 AM   #41
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No, I don't think the relay included with the BlueSea block.
Talking about adding another relay to blah blah,... is really hard part to me. My electrical knowledge sucks.
Do you want the entire Blue Sea fuse block to be hot only with the ignition on or do you want some circuits hot all the time and other circuits "ignition on hot" only? It can be done either way. It all depends on where in the system you locate the relay.

A relay is basically an electronic switch that completes the circuit when a trigger wire is energized. By finding the correct trigger wire you can design your circuit to meet the needs of your application.

For instance, in my application I will be using 3 relays.

The first relay is part of the Fuze Box (or as mine is branded a Power Hub). This relay is built into the Power Hub and will be connected to an ignition hot wire. Either the green/blue wire off the diagnostic plug or the hot lead to the stock power socket below the tool tray. This allows me to decide which circuits on the power hub I want switched or hot all the time. I like my power ports hot all the time. I like my aftermarket lights to be tied to the ignition so they don't drain the battery if I leave them on after I shut down the engine.

The second and third relay will be triggered to the daytime running light switch on the handle bars. This will let me use that switch to power both LED light systems. One relay for each system. The big advantage of these two relays is it allows me to bypass the switch with the main current draw from lighting system. Switch wiring is always a little questionable when it comes to wire size and it's ability to handle the current draw from more powerful lights. If you aren't careful you can melt the switch. These circuits are already relayed "ignition on hot" only due to the relay in the power hub.

There are 6 circuits available on the Power hub.
1-4 will be hot all the time for the 4 Powerlett accessory sockets
5&6 will be ingintion on only circuits with individual relays to power a Baja Designs Squadron LED light kit and a 8" Onx LED light bar, if the Squadrons don't light up the road enough.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:21 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by JM View Post
Do you want the entire Blue Sea fuse block to be hot only with the ignition on or do you want some circuits hot all the time and other circuits "ignition on hot" only? It can be done either way. It all depends on where in the system you locate the relay.

A relay is basically an electronic switch that completes the circuit when a trigger wire is energized. By finding the correct trigger wire you can design your circuit to meet the needs of your application.

For instance, in my application I will be using 3 relays.

The first relay is part of the Fuze Box (or as mine is branded a Power Hub). This relay is built into the Power Hub and will be connected to an ignition hot wire. Either the green/blue wire off the diagnostic plug or the hot lead to the stock power socket below the tool tray. This allows me to decide which circuits on the power hub I want switched or hot all the time. I like my power ports hot all the time. I like my aftermarket lights to be tied to the ignition so they don't drain the battery if I leave them on after I shut down the engine.

The second and third relay will be triggered to the daytime running light switch on the handle bars. This will let me use that switch to power both LED light systems. One relay for each system. The big advantage of these two relays is it allows me to bypass the switch with the main current draw from lighting system. Switch wiring is always a little questionable when it comes to wire size and it's ability to handle the current draw from more powerful lights. If you aren't careful you can melt the switch. These circuits are already relayed "ignition on hot" only due to the relay in the power hub.

There are 6 circuits available on the Power hub.
1-4 will be hot all the time for the 4 Powerlett accessory sockets
5&6 will be ingintion on only circuits with individual relays to power a Baja Designs Squadron LED light kit and a 8" Onx LED light bar, if the Squadrons don't light up the road enough.
Thank you very much, John.
Your second option (some circuits hot all the time + others hot on ignition) is really great to me.
I really appreciate your time describing that option.
I have at least two things to settle:
1. Find the correct trigger wire.
2. Get someone who really knows about Relay to design for me the wiring scheme as well as provide material spec (relay, fuse) based on your recommendation.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:29 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by VietHorse View Post
Thank you very much, John.
Your second option (some circuits hot all the time + others hot on ignition) is really great to me.
I really appreciate your time describing that option.
I have at least two things to settle:
1. Find the correct trigger wire.
2. Get someone who really knows about Relay to design for me the wiring scheme as well as provide material spec (relay, fuse) based on your recommendation.
That is harder to do on the Blue Seas fuse block because the hot is a bus, so either all hot, or all hot only with the ignition on.

To do it that way you would need something like the Fuzeblock: http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuzeblock-F...FZ-1_p_92.html

This allows you to select any of the circuits to be hot or switched just by moving the fuse.


How to wire it for switched. The horn wire should actually be the blue/green wire from the diagnostic plug, see below.



Trigger wire:


More wiring diagrams here: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/BMW_Wiring_Diagrams.html

Jim

PS Yes, rehash, but all at once.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:48 PM   #44
VietHorse
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Great info, Jim. It seems much clearer for me when having pix and scheme.
So the trigger wire is the GREEN one which comes from the slot #10 (as your pix above)??

I have installed my BlueSea fuse block temporarily with direct connection to the battery:

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Old 07-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #45
VietHorse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
That is harder to do on the Blue Seas fuse block because the hot is a bus, so either all hot, or all hot only with the ignition on.

To do it that way you would need something like the Fuzeblock: http://www.cyclenutz.com/Fuzeblock-F...FZ-1_p_92.html

This allows you to select any of the circuits to be hot or switched just by moving the fuse.


How to wire it for switched. The horn wire should actually be the blue/green wire from the diagnostic plug, see below.

Trigger wire:

Hi guys,
Someone pls tell me what is the name of the red device on above photo which take the power from the green wire without tearing the wire?? And link to where selling it? Or we can have an alternative stuff to do the same function?
Thanks.
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