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Old 03-11-2010, 11:46 AM   #6421
morse
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Location: Estonia
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Is it just me or does that one look mean!
More pictures please. And why did you change the bike?

Welcome!
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:57 PM   #6422
Dino3310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morse
Is it just me or does that one look mean!
More pictures please. And why did you change the bike?

Welcome!
X 2 on that mate, thats the hottest SR41 ive ever seen.

More pics Torte
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:41 PM   #6423
juss
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Welcome, Torte! What a cool bike! (and good that you cut out the HUUUGE German license plate that's about the size of Liechtenstein and manages to totally ruin the looks of any bike ;)) Please feel free to show us much more pictures;)

What tank is this? how did it fit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by vilguy
theres a specific lighting kit available for the sigma that just bolts on the side of it.
OK, i have to check it out..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroka
there is also a 1606L model that has a backlight feature.. its not the cheapest of sigmas but i think the backlight worths the extra $$
That might really be the best way to go, if it weren't for two reasons:
1) I already have a Sigma with no backlight (lifted it from my VF750)
2) I'm damn short on the $$ these days...

;)

But great thanks anyway!!

cheers, juss
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:53 PM   #6424
zappa71
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Nice bike Torte!!

And the Sigma light is a little green led witch goes next to the sigma on 22mm bar.. but can't order it by my suppliers anymore for a while..

And the back light on the 1606 works just for some seconds after pushing one of its buttons i believe..
Could use a small bike led to light up the sigma
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:17 PM   #6425
jabroka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71

And the back light on the 1606 works just for some seconds after pushing one of its buttons i believe..

it lights up when you press a button yes.. but you can also turn the light "on" or "off"

copied/pasted from the manual:

"The lighting function is switched on/off when you press
the SET and RESET button at the same time. The display
is illuminated when you press any button and the function
is switched on when you press it again.
Protect the battery by avoiding unnecessary
illumination!"
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:34 PM   #6426
jabroka
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K&N + straight through slip on.. need to mod the carbs?

hi guys.. .just wondering if anyone has a similar setup and if you had to change main jets or raise the needles to get the bike working properly..

first I installed the scorpion slip-on with stock filter and i had to turn the mixtures screws out couse it wont pull as hard and backfire on desceleration..

they where at 1 3/4 out and at 2 1/2 turns out was the best working config.. it worked much much better than with stock exhaust (and feels much lighter )

anyway.. yesterday i installed a K&N air filter.. it started to backfire a little again... it works fine.. no misfires or anything.. but it wont pull as hard,.. what do you think? should i go a step up on mains? (from 130 to 132.5) raise the needles?





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Old 03-11-2010, 07:49 PM   #6427
Ladder106
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Idle mixture OK with the K&N? More than 2.5 to 3 turns doesn't do much to richen the mixture and after 3 turns the adjustment screws are in danger of vibrating out of the holes. If you need more than this, go up one step on the pilot jets

I'd start by raising the needles. Once the roll-on/midrange is sorted, see what happens at full throttle. I'd expect the mains will have to go up a size. If so, you can then try lowering the needles one step.

You'll get good at removing the carbs.
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:45 AM   #6428
ausibatla
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Laugh



I filled the 800 up with 98 octane fuel (BP Ultimate) and went on to reserve at 332 kms. I refilled and it took exactly 20 liters. The speed I had sat on for most of that was 110 kph. I worked it out at 16.6 km per liters. If you recall when I first reassembled the bike and put the factory twin system on it I thought it was running really rich because of the popping and the black, sooty plug. Well the popping has disappeared and I haven't rechecked the colour of the plug but I reckon with mileage like that why bother. If it had of been running rich it would have been blowing smoke and it never did. I think the only reason the plug was black was because the motor hadn't done any work for six months or more and it was checked after having been at idle for a while. Not really recommended for a plug reading.
I guess the only reason you're having to put up with this useless crap from me is because I'm such a happy DR800 rider at last. Not sorry though.
Cheers.

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Old 03-12-2010, 02:05 AM   #6429
ztaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
Idle mixture OK with the K&N? More than 2.5 to 3 turns doesn't do much to richen the mixture and after 3 turns the adjustment screws are in danger of vibrating out of the holes. If you need more than this, go up one step on the pilot jets

I'd start by raising the needles. Once the roll-on/midrange is sorted, see what happens at full throttle. I'd expect the mains will have to go up a size. If so, you can then try lowering the needles one step.

You'll get good at removing the carbs.
Is the pilot jet removable in the carbs from the SR43 ? Just curious as I can't change mine in the SR41 and have quite bad bogging below 4000 rpm, I've learnt to live with it but it would be nice to sort it.
Just spent 12 hrs and 896k's on the BIG today Damn I love riding my bike. It was tempting to do another 104k's just to make a nice round number.

I'll sort ya spokes tomorrow Ausi make sure I've got what you want
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:27 AM   #6430
jabroka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
Idle mixture OK with the K&N?
it backfires a little (almost no backfires b4 k&N and 2 1/2) but i guess i can try 2 3/4 turns out and see how it works.. tomorrow ill rise the needles and see if it makes some improvement tnx
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:34 AM   #6431
Ladder106
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Are the pilots really not removable?

Once you have the screws 2.5 turns out, more turning is really not doing very much to the mixture since the tapered screw is just about completly removed from the hole. Pay attention to how the screw "feels" when turning out this far. If there is not much resistance you may want to go back and stretch the spring under the screw just a bit. The spring tension helps hold the screws in the carbs. Without this there is a risk they will vibrate out.

I admit that I've not had the float bowls off my carbs. My recommendations were based on the other jetting work I've done. The reason I advised changing the needles before using larger mains is two-fold. One, you can do this without removing the carbs (again) and Two, often the standard mains are a bit on the rich side to compensate for a lean(ish) needle necessary to get through emissions. What I do not know is if the DR had different jetting for different parts of the world but I'd doubt it.

I recently helped a mate install a Dynojet kit on his GS500. Those carbs are the same as the SR41 through 43 - no? We removed the pilots to clean them.

I've never seen a Mikuni with non-removable jets. Please elaborate.
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:38 AM   #6432
zappa71
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You can remove the pilot screw of a SR43, the one of the SR41 is just a drilled hole.
a good shop has some special instruments to drill up the hole and main jets.

Any Big rider should lift up one or two gas needles to gain some torq and pk, original exhaust and filter or not.

I have on BIG with a open laser and K&N filter, needles 1 groove up, main jets at #135 idle screw around 2,25 out pulls like a beast, going in the red with ease in 5th gear going 170km/h on the GPS

And the other with a legal laser and original filter, needles one groove up, goes also 170 but is there a bit slower

And you can remove the pilot jets of a SR43 leaving the carbs on
If you have the carbs with the screw under the floater box, just turn that one out and put a flat bit on your spanner and turn it out

Bit of fiddling around to put it back but a bit of grease on the flat bit helps to keep the jet sticking on it
To bad the SR41 does'nt have those srews on the carbs..

Oh, and max i did 18 kms on one liter, over 360km on 20L, doing half highway and half off road.. thats was in the summer and just retored the carbs with new needles and housing
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:02 PM   #6433
ztaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
I've never seen a Mikuni with non-removable jets. Please elaborate.
Elaborating.......
I've replaced the standard 120 with a 122.5 main jet (the 1 I've circled)
The one I want to replace is where the arrow goes to.
[IMG][/IMG]

the mixture screw is about right and I've raised the needle 1 notch but there's still this damn bogging ! I am still sure the muffler has been opened up but can't be sure, it's damn loud though

Am I missing something ?
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:58 PM   #6434
zappa71
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The arow points to the air mixture screw.. there are no diverent sizes on that one

the pilot jet is next to the main jet in the flotter bowl.
If it's realy to small or cloded your revs won't drop properly when you close your throtle while driving.

Some backfire is normal, a lot of small boging means to lean, a big one means to rich..

Your mufler could be giving the right back draft [ a vacium sucking air out of the cylinder] don't now of it's designed for the BIG or 1 thumper..
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Old 03-12-2010, 05:34 PM   #6435
ztaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
The arow points to the air mixture screw.. there are no diverent sizes on that one

the pilot jet is next to the main jet in the flotter bowl.
If it's realy to small or cloded your revs won't drop properly when you close your throtle while driving.

Some backfire is normal, a lot of small boging means to lean, a big one means to rich..

Your mufler could be giving the right back draft [ a vacium sucking air out of the cylinder] don't now of it's designed for the BIG or 1 thumper..
Cheers Zappa, but..... I just had another look at a carb body I have and you are right, the arrow was in the wrong place, but if you look at the diagram there is no pilot jet I would show you a pic of the one I have but it's kinda hard to see. There is no slot in it for removing it, it seems pressed in.
Muffler is standard on the outside except for the spark arester (I'll see if I can find a pic, Unknown whats on the inside, There is no backfiring most of the time, I'll give the mixture screw a weeee tweak and see if that cures the bogging, Bike was running at 130-140 deg celsius on the open road yesterday so I think I can lean it out a bit without cooking it.
Am I right ?

found link to pic of muffler....http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...8&d=1259140124
and http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/at...7&d=1259140124

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