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Old 04-22-2010, 06:55 AM   #6781
Ladder106
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Location: Davis, CA
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Quote:
If I forget to turn off the fuel cock and leave it overnight, sometimes the carb overflows, sometimes it doesn't.
With an obviously leaky fuel tap it's VERY important to check the engine oil at those times to be certain you haven't contaminated it with fuel. If the oil level seems to be higher, give the inside of the case a quick sniff and check for the odor of gasoline. Drain and replace if necessary.

I've seen more than one engine ruined when the new "automatic" fuel taps go bad and the owner doesn't understand what happened.

Being a FOG, I want all my bikes to have a positive manually operated fuel shutoff (at least any that are gravity fed systems). Forgetting to turn the fuel on is much less dangerous than forgetting to turn it off.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:01 AM   #6782
Ladder106
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Jabroka,

It sounds to me like there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the system.

The 800 has some vacuum operated stuff doesn't it? The compression release? I'd look at vacuum hoses and diaphragms.

Apologies for multi-posting...just got out of bed.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:37 AM   #6783
jabroka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
Jabroka,

It sounds to me like there is a vacuum leak somewhere in the system.

The 800 has some vacuum operated stuff doesn't it? The compression release? I'd look at vacuum hoses and diaphragms.

Apologies for multi-posting...just got out of bed.
as far as i know just the hose that goes from the carbs to the fuel pump.. but if that would be the case.. wouldnt the system have extra air (lean mix)?? better running when cold isnt a sign of rich mix? maybe I should call an exorcist

ill check the carb/fuel pump vacuum hose to see if its ok anyways, you never know.. tnx!
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:40 AM   #6784
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto
Ladder 106, Ray I went to the suzuki dealer today to get some parts for the 650 dakar and asked what the standard sprockets were they said 16 / 42 it has a 48 on the back now and I put a 15 on the front to run odd even numbers as I read on the other forrums allso about even numbers wear chains etc I just hope I don,t wear out my new swing arm chain slipper,

Vilguy, nice work so far
Not sure why but over here standard 650 sprockets are 15/42, not 16/42.
Which would make sense - I did not see japanese bikes with even-even sprockets yet
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:52 AM   #6785
Ladder106
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Jabroka,

I was wrong, the decomp. lever on the 800s is electrical.

I just remember seeing a big canister looking thing in the service manual and thought it was somehow a vacuum canister. Since my bike doesn't use it, I didn't pay much attention.

Sorry if I misled you.
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:02 AM   #6786
Ladder106
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I still think it's sounds like a vacuum leak though.

Some guys recommend spraying WD40 around the throttle shafts while the engine is running. If the idle evens out (because the liquid seals a vacuum leak) OR you start to see white smoke out the pipe (because the liquid is being sucked into the engine and burnt) then your throttle valve seals are bad.

Here's an interesting experience I had just last week:

I removed the carbs from my DR750 (no easy task) for inspection. Everything looked good so I cleaned things up and reinstalled.

When I started the bike, the throttle would hang-up. I mean it would not come back down to idle quickly. It would sit at 2000 rpm for 5-10 seconds and then come down.

I could see that the throttle was not touching the idle stop during this time. I could push the shaft closed by hand and idle speed would drop.

I thought "Oh GREAT, I get to pull the carbs AGAIN". For some reason I thought I'd try a quick tap on the throttle shaft with a hammer and punch. Not a lumber-jack swing....just a tiny short rap.

I was shocked when it actually worked. I tapped on the shaft when the idle was hanging up high. It immediately snapped down to correct idle speed and has not hung up since. I don't know if I pulled on the cable attachment when removing the carbs or did something else strange. (I did not seperate the two carbs when I inspected them).

In any case it worked and saved me a lot of trouble.

I also learned that before you take something apart......HIT IT
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:47 AM   #6787
jabroka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106
I still think it's sounds like a vacuum leak though.

Some guys recommend spraying WD40 around the throttle shafts while the engine is running. If the idle evens out (because the liquid seals a vacuum leak) OR you start to see white smoke out the pipe (because the liquid is being sucked into the engine and burnt) then your throttle valve seals are bad.
I replaced axle shaft seals/spacers 2 weeks ago with oem parts.. I ordered 2 k-583 carb rebuild kits.. the fuel valves and valve seat orings are new but not the valve seats, that is the only thing that isnt new on the carbs.. all other parts where replaced (diaprhagms, slides, slides carriers, jet needles, needle jet, float assys, fuel valves, throttle and choke cables, axle shaft spacers and seals and intake boot orings)

remember i still couldnt achieve the -1mm fuel level (on gskt bowl surface) Stefan recommended even with new float assys


will report back as soon as i get the rebuild kits..
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:51 AM   #6788
ppe172
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I'm sure your local dealer could get the parts for you from suzuki, it's pretty easy to look up the part #'s on the computer and then order them.

This isn't true, I know from experience. If the bike was not sold in that market the computer doesn't have the part numbers. Not even if you give them the part number, the computer doesn't recognize it.
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:27 PM   #6789
morse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabroka
I replaced axle shaft seals/spacers 2 weeks ago with oem parts.. I ordered 2 k-583 carb rebuild kits.. the fuel valves and valve seat orings are new but not the valve seats, that is the only thing that isnt new on the carbs.. all other parts where replaced (diaprhagms, slides, slides carriers, jet needles, needle jet, float assys, fuel valves, throttle and choke cables, axle shaft spacers and seals and intake boot orings)

remember i still couldnt achieve the -1mm fuel level (on gskt bowl surface) Stefan recommended even with new float assys


will report back as soon as i get the rebuild kits..
I can't remember if I wrote to you here, or I just thought of writing.
ANYWAYS! I had just a similar problem like your's (mainly flooded carbies and bad starting and idling due to that).

The ONLY thing I replaced was the fuel valve seats (not even the valves themselves) and it worked for me.
After that I changed the main needles and needle jets also and these made things even better.

Generally I agree with Bluesman: before changeing expencive parts measure the old ones. But I really think you should change the needle valve seats (since you have replaced EVERYTHING else in the carbies).

OFCOURSE examine the seats before buying!!!! (Not that it's easy to take off the carbs, but you should do it quick nowadays.)

I have posted a MS Paint drawing of worn and new needle seats somewhere here.
edit: this picture


Good Luck!

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Old 04-22-2010, 01:05 PM   #6790
morse
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I asked the same question quite a while ago. Does anyone know where to get a new diaphragm for DR fuel pump? Mine has been a little worn for a while now but since it is otherwise working I don't want to buy a whole new pump.

Cmsnl gives the pump as one part...

Maybe someone has gained some new insight over the year.
(Bluesman told about boat pumps back then I remember...)

By th way!! The Volvo discussion: I reccomend skandix.de page (shipping to abroad is expencive but It's ok if you have friends in Germany).

morse screwed with this post 04-22-2010 at 01:12 PM
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:19 PM   #6791
Ladder106
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Sprockets are HARD!

My DR650 15T sprocket cam in today.

I thought I'd just chuck it up in the lather and spin off 1mm or so on each side.


...screeeeeech......Not Happening.....not cutting....switch cutters...same problem.

Called my local shop to talk with the very experienced owner. He said the material is too hard and has to be ground.

So.....I kept the sprocket chucked up in the lathe and got out the sidewinder grinder. Spun the sprocket at about 1000 rpm and then applied the grinder. Took a while but I made the 525 sprocket into a 520 sprocket.

I was astonished at just how hard a heat treated sprocket is.

No photos because I need both hands whenever I do something silly.

Chain now sounds much happier. I can always tell when the CS sprocket starts to wear when I push the bike backwards into the shop. The chain engagement sounds "rough" somehow. Chain is still easily within wear limits so no problems there or with the rear sprocket.

Now I'm back to a reasonable 15/48 combination........the things I do to keep Bluesman happy

Ladder106 screwed with this post 04-22-2010 at 02:34 PM
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:34 PM   #6792
zappa71
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About the carb problems, make sure the presure hose on top of the carbs is free breathing..
And idle chaging RPM is worn down jet needles/needle jets or cloded holes in the needle jet..

And have a fuel pump for sale..
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Old 04-22-2010, 02:43 PM   #6793
morse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zappa71
And have a fuel pump for sale..
Condition? I already have an old but kinda working one. Otherwise I like using used stuff where reasonable, no need to buy everything from stores.

morse screwed with this post 04-23-2010 at 08:34 AM
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Old 04-22-2010, 04:19 PM   #6794
zappa71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morse
Condition? I already have a old but kinda working one. Otherwise I like using used stuff where reasonable, no need to buy everything from stores.
It should be good, if you want one that works for sure i rip it from my back up BIG..
But the only thing the pump dose is get the last 4L of fuel out of the tank.. even disconnected the fuel gets to the carb up to 20L with the SR43 whit out any help from the pump
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:14 AM   #6795
robmoto
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My 08 650 counter shaft sprocket is a 15, sorry for not saying the 16 was on the 91 650 dakar.
Ray the JT sprockets are a fairly loose fit on the shaft but I have not heard about any trouble with damage to the shaft itself,not like a crap transalp
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