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Old 03-24-2012, 03:24 PM   #12616
nejauks
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Seems to be Dynojet 150 = Mikuni 140,6.
This jets is for DR800 (full jetting))).
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:51 PM   #12617
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resi View Post
Mate, I've got one. A round hole in the middle :)

Cheers,
LarS
Thanks! That settles it - I am ordering one.

Don't know Dyno jet sizes...I never used them on my bike - jets or needles...did not like them for some reason (just did not feel right, pure hunch)
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:11 AM   #12618
ztaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nejauks View Post
Jetting

DR750:
The air filter housing as cut + in air box top drill 100 mm hole
That's a seriously large hole to cut in the top of the airbox Also it would kind of make the air filter redundant, wouldn't it ?

Just sayin is all
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:35 AM   #12619
Doctor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 800rider View Post
PS, your bike looks very shiny but watch the silicon on the tires
neither Rob's BIG nor my 1400 rely on silicon to shine
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:10 AM   #12620
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Hi Ray, thanks for posting the pic,s about the muffler, I wonder why the cockheads made the link pipe so short .
As you know I have orderd one the same but with a header pipe, and a 2 week wait before posting , I was going to use Resi/ Lars header with mine as the yella terra allready has it fitted.
So maybe I will have to get a bit of stainless welded to it allso, anyway I will just wait and see.
I bet you love the Wilbers and Intiminators.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:48 AM   #12621
AJ..
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
So the GPR pipe arrived today from Jolly Ole.

Looked very nice. I was sorta expecting some type of internal baffles with the "tri-oval" design but its really just straight-through with probably more packing than the circular cross section model.

Removed the JAMA pipe and midpipe and tried to fit the GPR. The mid pipe was about 50mm SHORT

Tried all the usual rotations and every way possible to fit this thing but I just could NOT magically make the mid section longer.

My SR41 has the standard head pipe and I'm certain that it's the correct length since the standard silencer will fit right up with good pipe overlap and clearance.

SO

A trip to the local auto-muffler shop. A quick bit of cutting and expanding (are those machines cool or what?) got me an extension piece.



Then I had to use 2 T-bolt clamps in a short space.....not perfect but it did at least work.



I think that originally this pipe was designed to have the silencer placed in the "LOW" position like the standard pipe. But, by twisting the mid-pipe a bit, I was able to make it line up with the silencer much higher. The springs that hold the silencer onto the mid-pipe aren't quite straight but they work just fine.



I was trying to make the silencer follow the "line" of the plastic side panel. There was a black bracket that came with the kit that allowed me to place it in just about the position I was looking for.



With the dB Killer in place on the outlet side, the sound is just what I was looking for. Deeper but without any harshness. I'm sure Rob would disagree

Overall it works much better both in sound quality and esthetics than the JAMA pipe did. The last thing to do was to drill and safety wire the tiny 5mm bolt holding the dB killer into the end pipe. This thing looked like it would last about 50 miles before the vibrations would have it loosening and popping out of the end of the pipe (likely only to run over by a truck (lorry) before it could be retrieved).






The only thing I don't know is if standard jetting is supposed to change. Nothing in the information that came with the pipe said anything about this.

Any ideas?

Ladder,may I know what tailight is that?
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:59 AM   #12622
nejauks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztaj View Post
That's a seriously large hole to cut in the top of the airbox Also it would kind of make the air filter redundant, wouldn't it ?

Just sayin is all
Excuse my bad English. I wanted to say - cut stock air filter is not enough. Need an additional hole in the air box. (Ok, drill 80mm)

nejauks screwed with this post 03-25-2012 at 04:05 AM
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:28 AM   #12623
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
So the GPR pipe arrived today from Jolly Ole.

Looked very nice. I was sorta expecting some type of internal baffles with the "tri-oval" design but its really just straight-through with probably more packing than the circular cross section model.

Removed the JAMA pipe and midpipe and tried to fit the GPR. The mid pipe was about 50mm SHORT

Tried all the usual rotations and every way possible to fit this thing but I just could NOT magically make the mid section longer.

My SR41 has the standard head pipe and I'm certain that it's the correct length since the standard silencer will fit right up with good pipe overlap and clearance.

SO

A trip to the local auto-muffler shop. A quick bit of cutting and expanding (are those machines cool or what?) got me an extension piece.



Then I had to use 2 T-bolt clamps in a short space.....not perfect but it did at least work.



I think that originally this pipe was designed to have the silencer placed in the "LOW" position like the standard pipe. But, by twisting the mid-pipe a bit, I was able to make it line up with the silencer much higher. The springs that hold the silencer onto the mid-pipe aren't quite straight but they work just fine.



I was trying to make the silencer follow the "line" of the plastic side panel. There was a black bracket that came with the kit that allowed me to place it in just about the position I was looking for.



With the dB Killer in place on the outlet side, the sound is just what I was looking for. Deeper but without any harshness. I'm sure Rob would disagree

Overall it works much better both in sound quality and esthetics than the JAMA pipe did. The last thing to do was to drill and safety wire the tiny 5mm bolt holding the dB killer into the end pipe. This thing looked like it would last about 50 miles before the vibrations would have it loosening and popping out of the end of the pipe (likely only to run over by a truck (lorry) before it could be retrieved).






The only thing I don't know is if standard jetting is supposed to change. Nothing in the information that came with the pipe said anything about this.

Any ideas?
Does it run OK? If yes - forget about rejetting and enjoy :)
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:26 PM   #12624
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Questions, Answers and even More Questions

Quote:
Ladder,may I know what tailight is that?
Yes, It's the USA standard tail light from the Suzuki DRZ400. The taillight that was designed for the DRZ somehow did not meet our silly DOT (Dept of Transportation) requirements so it got axed for this stupid looking add-on.



I changed it back to the lens that the rest of the world uses:




But then I found that this lens fits right into the toolbox opening on the DR750. You have to fabricate a backing plate using some aluminium stock but that's pretty east to do.



You can likely find quite a few standard DRZ400 taillights on eBay in the US since lots of riders take them off in favor of something smaller.



Quote:
I wanted to say - cut stock air filter is not enough. Need an additional hole in the air box. (Ok, drill 80mm)
Nejauks, The confusion here is not with English.

If you just drill a hole into the top of the SR41 airbox, you are allowing UNFILTERED air into the engine. The filter on the SR41 is an "inside-out" design. You can certainly open a hole but then some type of filter would have to be fabricated to keep out the dirt.....or am I missing something


Quote:
Does it run OK? If yes - forget about rejetting and enjoy :)
Blueman, Yes it runs OK.

Seems to fuel very well ..... but ..... The bike will not now pull past 6000 rpm in top gear (standard gearing)

It used to pull to 7000 before. It doesn't sputter or sound like its running badly at full throttle in top...just won't rev past 6000.

I'm thinking that since I eliminated a number of baffles and turns that the exhaust gas has to make to get out by adding the GPR rather than the standard Suzuki silencer then it would have to be running a bit lean...if only on top.

What's main jets feel like when it's too lean? Sputtering or just no power past a certain rpm?

It will pull to 7000 in all the other gears.

Inside of the pipe is dark to medium grey in color no white of evidence of overheating.

Ideas?


Quote:
I was going to use Resi/ Lars header with mine as the yella terra allready has it fitted.
Rob, Let me know if yours will fit correctly with Resi's head pipe since I'll likely ask him for one soon. If not maybe try the head pipe that is supplied. I'm thinking that they probably designed the system as a whole...and their head pipe was just a bit longer than standard. Then they sell the less expensive kits with just the mid-pipe and silencer and the mid-pipe ends up too short.

Quote:
I bet you love the Wilbers and Intiminators.
BRILLIANT combination. I was having fits getting the Intiminators to work right (or what I thought was right) with the standard worn-out rear shock. I could just never get to the suspension action that I found on my Transalp.

Once I fitted the Wilbers on the back, the front just magically fell into line.

The Big goes just about as fast as my DRZ400 over rough ground. The DRZ changes direction more quickly (of course) but I'm really liking the Big for off-road stuff now.

Last thing to do is to mod a US Forestry Approved spark arrestor into the GPR so I can be legal in the US outback.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:24 PM   #12625
AJ..
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Hi Ladder,thanks for the reply and very detailed info.

I think.I am able to source out those TV screen tailight or also the slightly new model DRZ as all these items were throw all over the place.

initially,I wanted to use an aftermarket DR650 tailight,but not quite available here unless you order online.Only if happens someone from the local forum.selling it.

Once again,thanks plenty!
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:30 AM   #12626
kyle
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GPR looks well Ladder!! was wanting to see how they looked on the bike..like Robmoto i am thinking of gettin the full system but i see they are off eblag
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:06 AM   #12627
bluesman
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Ladder106,
Apart from obvious "pull the plug"....how to see if it's too lean...well
When it's too lean simple way to detect it - hold you hand next to exhaust outlet. If gases got so hot, you cannot even hold you hand there - this is lean.
Other kinda rough way is to listen to small frequent pop ups in exhaust - it can even happen in usual mode, leave alone overrun. But this is quite tricky to detect I must say.
Fact, that it does not run past 6000 means it is lean in top. Lean in top as you know is either needle or needle and a bit of main jet.
So...try to raise needle 1 notch? See what happens, if no luck - change main jet of course...

I just had some bad luck with my carbs AGAIN....suddenly they started leaking. 1 month since brand new rubbers, needles, o-rings etc. Removed bowls - not perfectly clean. Looks like damage, they got from that bad gas back last summer in Italy was more than I thought. Residue everywhere... :(

I am so tired of those BSTs, I really hate them. But then TMs no less tricky.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:59 AM   #12628
Resi
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Concerning to jets for K&N:

It's not that I wanna buy a Dynojet ket, but when swapping air filter I want to get a base guideline.
Somewhere I read about a 160 main jet...

So, Nejauks mods are for SR43, aren't they?

Cheers,
Lars

BTW: I let the endpipes of my headers some mm/cm longer than stock ones...
But it might be to short anyhow...
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:38 AM   #12629
the_sad_punk
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Ladders header must have been cut me thinks.


I remember doing a trial fit with the oem header and gpr link pipe and can and all was well, no hassle with clearances anwhere. My can is different (nicer) but the link is identical.


Resi's excellent header works well with the gpr link and can.


Put back in the front baffle, the drilled conical baffle (top rhs of pic) and leave out the circlip one at the exhaust tip is my advice.
With stock air box and carbs she pulls top no bother with this. Sounds 'blowy' and just wrong to me with this baffle left out and the other in which is what i reckon you have from reading that post earlier.

Ps: re intiminators and wilbers
Could not be happier with how the old girl cuts a rug now!
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:41 AM   #12630
Ladder106
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Quote:
Ladders header must have been cut me thinks
Thanks for letting me know. That's what I was thinking also and your mid-pipe certainly looks identical to mine....

BUT

The standard Suzuki muffler/silencer will bolt right up to my header pipe and then bolt directly to the frame (all holes line up) with no problems at all.

If the header had been shortened the standard pipe should not fit, correct?

There IS evidence of modding by a previous owner since there is a small 5mm nut brazed onto the top of the head pipe (to be used as a spring mounting point presumably).

I wrote to the company to advise them of potential problems with their product but if others are fitting up with no problems, my case would be my fault. I'll see what they say

Any other GPR kits out there with no problems?

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