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Old 09-04-2012, 08:52 AM   #13531
Resi
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Shane,

I remove the brass seal on each carb I have on the bench for cleaning. Sometimes the o-ring under the idle screw is worn on the right carb, too.
I adjust both screws to "stock" conditions and tune in with the left (with my special screw, of course).
Regarding the adjustments between carbs: As far as both go into one combustion chamber it doesn't mind that much ;)
But, when having problems with correct idle mixture a slight misalignment may help: The carb with less airflow leans out the mixture ;)

Rik,
seems that your supervisor is examining your work, eh!
Good work!

Cheers,
Lars
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:28 AM   #13532
Ladder106
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Quote:
When I turn the carbies upside down on one carbie I can see a flat screw inside a hole. On the other carbie I see a brass plug in the matching hole.
Yes that screw (and the one hiding under the brass plug) is the idle mixture screw.

Suzuki plugs these screws to prevent owners from tampering to comply with emissions regs. To remove, drill a hole GENTLY into the brass (it's soft). The hole should be about 1/2 the diameter of the plug itself. Insert a tapered sheet metal screw until it just gets tight...pull the screw to pull out the remainder of the plug.

The plug is only about 3-4 mm thick. Drill carefully because you do not want the drill bit to begin to drill into the idle screw. There is another 3-4 mm of "airspace" between the plug and the screw. The brass is soft so don't push hard.

Once you remove the screw you will find:
(a) a silver spring (that looks like a ball point pen spring)
(b) a TINY metal washer
(c) a TINY O-ring.

The washer and O-ring have a habit of remaining in the carb body. If you don't know they are there they will happily fall out without your knowledge and hide in any available crevice in your shop floor.

If the washer and O-ring are lodged, tap the carb body on your workbench over a clean rag to persuade them to leave.

The O-ring here has to be in reasonably good shape also.

On reassembly, hold the screw, then slip on the spring, next the washer (just over the tapered tip of the screw) and finally the O-ring.

Quote:
do I drill out the other side and replace that as well or is the idle controlled by the one side?
With the age of our bikes, it's best to remove the plug and examine the O-ring on the plugged side. Then set the right side (that was previously plugged) to 1.5 to 2 turns out and adjust with the left side.

If after you do all this, the idle speed still will not come down, it is possible that you have a seal leak letting air in where the main butterfly valve shafts pass through the two carbs.

This is fairly easy to diagnose by spraying some light lubricant between the carbs as the bike is running. If the speed drops and you get some white smoke out the pipe, you have a leak around the shafts.

You can worry about this later.
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:15 PM   #13533
Bambi
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Hello there, hello ladder,

somehow reading your last post brought back to my mind that you own the 'African Alp' as you call it. Besides the Big I'm fiddling around with a Suzuki GN 400 to transform it into a flat-tracker. Original seats for these or replicas of these are rather expensive in Germany. A few days ago I've seen a pic of the rear cover/upper mudguard of the Trans Alp. This might be a nice look-a-like. If it's still on your bike or lying on your shelf in the garage, could you please measure it's width and length for me? Second weekend in octobre the biggest auto- and motorcycle-jumble in Germany takes place and with your measurement I could make sure not to chase for a non-fitting part.

Thanks a lot in advance, kind regards, Bambi
PS @ all: Sorry for being off-topic!
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:45 PM   #13534
Ladder106
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???

Bambi,

I'm a bit confused (yes, more than normal). Do you want me to measure the seat?

It sounds as if you are looking for an inner mudguard panel. Is this correct.

The transalp has a black plastic piece that fits between the rear sub-frame rails. It's located under the seat and is separate from the seat.

Basically the black piece keeps water and dirt off the rear shock. Is that what you're looking for?
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:47 PM   #13535
Ladder106
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Nice

Rik le Ray,

The bike looks grand.

Where did you ever find the ORANGE fork boots?
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Old 09-04-2012, 05:21 PM   #13536
Simosez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rik Le Ray View Post

what is the swingarm out of and how easy was it to fit? those rims look sexy.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:48 PM   #13537
shanekfalcon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resi View Post
Shane,

I remove the brass seal on each carb I have on the bench for cleaning. Sometimes the o-ring under the idle screw is worn on the right carb, too.
I adjust both screws to "stock" conditions and tune in with the left (with my special screw, of course).
Regarding the adjustments between carbs: As far as both go into one combustion chamber it doesn't mind that much ;)
But, when having problems with correct idle mixture a slight misalignment may help: The carb with less airflow leans out the mixture ;)

Rik,
seems that your supervisor is examining your work, eh!
Good work!

Cheers,
Lars
Lars,

You had better send me a PM with the price for two of the special screws and delivery. Thanks,

Shane
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:09 PM   #13538
shanekfalcon
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You know, as I clean the carbies up, I am amazed at how dirty they really get. To me, before I started, I thought they looked pretty clean but as I go through slowly, with rags, toothbrushes and carb cleaner the toothbrushes become black in no time. Then I take a look at a part that has been cleaned and dried and another section yet to be finished and then notice the difference. Amazing. Learning all the time on this bike!

Regards,

Shane
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:46 AM   #13539
Rik Le Ray
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fork boots

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Rik le Ray,

The bike looks grand.

Where did you ever find the ORANGE fork boots?

I got them from stefan hessler mate he is very helpful but a little crazy great guy though and fast dispatch
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:48 AM   #13540
Rik Le Ray
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yeah he is very helpful
Rik,
seems that your supervisor is examining your work, eh!
Good work!

Cheers,
Lars[/QUOTE]
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:56 AM   #13541
Rik Le Ray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simosez View Post
what is the swingarm out of and how easy was it to fit? those rims look sexy.

Thanks glad you like them

the arm is made from ally and is an old JMC arm around 18 years i got it with a big back in the 90s it was a nightmare to fit i bought bearings for it had them seated then the long bolt to hold it in the frame would not fit through had to get spacers made up and bushes a total nightmare very costly to about 150 / 200 playing round with it the reason i had such a nightmare is because i did not remove it from the other bike my mate did and all i got was the swing arm back so i think parts were lost as it should have just fitted straight on
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:04 AM   #13542
Silent Hunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
First, do you have any airbox/aircleaner or exhaust mods?

The idle mixture screw can be accessed from the carb bottom even with the float bowl in place and controls the amount of fuel flowing through the pilot (idle) circuit. Lets make certain that you are not referring to the actual pilot jet (found inside the float bowl..these are not the adjustment and should be screwed in snuggly).

Your mixture screw is normally adjusted with the bike warm and idling. Turning the screw in (tightening) leans the mixture....and out richens it.

If your screw was turned in all the way ON BOTH CARBS I'm surprised the bike idled at all. If it did idle well with both screws turned all the way in, there is
(a) something wrong with the choke sealing that is letting fuel through to the bike when it shouldn't
or
(b) there are really large pilot jets installed that differ from standard.

If you are referring to the mixture screw that Suzuki hid behind the brass plug and you have now uncovered I guess it's possible to have that screwed in all the way. Start with determining how far the screw was opened on the other carb.

The "best" place for this screw if the pilot jet is the correct size is 1.5 to 2 turns out.

Because the right side carb is more difficult to adjust with the bike running due to the proximity of the exhaust pipe, I set that mixture screw to 1.5 turns out and make final adjustments with the left side screw.

You are looking for the best/fastest/smoothest idle speed.

Turn the screw in until idle speed falls (lean) then gradually turn the screw out until the speed picks up. If idle speed goes up past 1700 or so, turn the idle SPEED screw (the large one you can reach with gloves) down until idle speed falls to the 1200-1500 rpm speed recommended then go back to the mixture screw. Once the idle speed falls due to lean mixture, start turning it back out counting the turns in 1/4 (90deg) increments. Keep turning the screw out until the idle speed falls again...this time it will be beacuse the mixture is too rich. (On one of my bikes the speed doesn't actually fall but the idle gets a bit ragged and fluffy sounding)

If you've counted - say - 2.5 turns between lean and rich, take half of that...1.25 turns and set the screw there. You have to keep playing (and burning your knuckles) until you reach the best idle mixture with lowest possible idle speed setting.

For idle speed, I like 1200rpm. Most people agree that the Bigs should idle at 1500 because they don't oil well below that speed. I prefer to hold the idle speed at 1500 while stopped for traffic etc manually with the throttle. When riding speep decents around here on trails and just shutting the throttle down for corners etc, I like to have the speed fall off a bit faster so I set for the lower speed.

After all this, you may find that after you've set this "correctly" the bike will pop and bang more on over-run. If so, you can open (richen) the idle mixture about 1/2 turn and while this is not "perfect" for the bike, it reduces the banging to a minimum.

Apologies for the long-winded explanation. It takes longer to say than to do.

Others may have other tips or opinions on how to best accomplish this.

Turning the screws in leans the mixture?
I had always thought that turning the screws in will enrich the mix.

Is it the same for older SL models too? Because the one I have is an SL model.
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:20 AM   #13543
Bambi
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Hello Ladder,
I meant the 'outer shell'. As far as I understand it from fotos, there is an inner mudguard that is covered by an outer one. The piece that sits between the rear-light and the seat ... I don't call it mudguard as I think it just fills the gap and has no function in terms of preventing mud coming onto the bike and it's rider. Better explanation?
Kind regards, Bambi ... realizing, that there are still limits for a German guy with good knowledge of the English language ...
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:01 AM   #13544
vilguy
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lithium batteries

hey guys, any of you lot using lithium cells yet instead of the hunk of lead under the seat?

i just istalled one under the seat of my klv1000, the difference in weight in phenomenal! and it quite happily turns over the 1000 cc twin with more CCA than the original lead acid unit.

Would make a nice little upgrade for the DR. I think i will be getting another one for my bike and for my zx9 too.

Chepeast way of knocking a couple of kilos of weight off you bike... short of eating less.... and wheres the fun in that!
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Old 09-05-2012, 07:09 AM   #13545
Ladder106
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Quote:
Turning the screws in leans the mixture?
I had always thought that turning the screws in will enrich the mix.
It depends on the carb type.

In general, idle screws on CV carbs (or idle screws located AFTER the slide needle as the air "sees" it and usually on the bottom or top of the carb body) control liquid fuel flow....so IN is less fuel/leaner.

Other carbs (or idle screws found at or before the slide needle usually on the side of the carb body) control AIR flow...so IN is less air/richer

I assume the SL model has the same carbs, so it will be "IN is leaner" for your SL model
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