DR750 & DR800 owners thread

[ausibatla]

1991 DR800 for sale in Australia. This is the ebay link if you want to check it out.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUZUKI-DR...item48508a3bab

Cheers.

[Ladder106]

Lars,

Can you be a bit more specific about that additions or changes are necessary to wire the SR43 CDI into a SR41 wiring harness?

Electronics is my weak point and I'm having trouble following the wiring diagram on you web site....cant tell what is different or what changes are necessary.

[EBMOTT]

hey ya'll i was wondering what is the frame difference between the dr650 and the dr800. seeing as how the dr800 was never imported in to the US. want to be able to bolt all the dr800 plastic on my 650. wondering if it willl work or how much fabricating i would have to do? thanx for your help
cheers mott

[Simosez]

Originally Posted by EBMOTT

hey ya'll i was wondering what is the frame difference between the dr650 and the dr800. seeing as how the dr800 was never imported in to the US. want to be able to bolt all the dr800 plastic on my 650. wondering if it willl work or how much fabricating i would have to do? thanx for your help
cheers mott

then you would only be an imposter!!

honestly though, it would not be easy and you would only be adding weight that a piddly little 650 would stuggle to lug around.

[Ladder106]

wondering if it willl work

Possibly but things like distance between the botom of the tank and top of cylinder head might make things difficult.

I think there is more relation between the pre-1995 DR650 and the Dr750/800 than there is for the post 96 models.

or how much fabricating i would have to do?

Some welding to attach brackets tot he steering head to mount the front fairing bracket.

Lost of little tabs and things to mount other body panels. It depends on your skills with welders and other tools


The only way to know would be to mock up some 800 bodywork and see if anything fits.

It's certainly not a bolt-up operation.



I might just have the only DR800 in the USA. Right now, I'm starting to do a frame-up repaint and rebuild. The bodywork is off, engine is out, the frame is just a "roller" until I get the engine work done.

You're welcome to come by and try duct-taping the 800 body work onto your bike if you want to spend the day taking your tank off etc.

[Resi]

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Lars,

Can you be a bit more specific about that additions or changes are necessary to wire the SR43 CDI into a SR41 wiring harness?

Electronics is my weak point and I'm having trouble following the wiring diagram on you web site....cant tell what is different or what changes are necessary.

Hi Ray.

A mate from german BIG forum did the conversion on his SR42.
When you look at the diagram, the greyed-out parts are supersede (decompressor relay and decomp. switch).
The tricky part is to connect the '96 CDI to the old loom. On the scheme you can see which wire from the CDI has to be connected to the accordant wire on the loom.
The only thing you have to rewire is above the three connectors!

Cheers,
Lars

[bluesman]

Originally Posted by EBMOTT

hey ya'll i was wondering what is the frame difference between the dr650 and the dr800. seeing as how the dr800 was never imported in to the US. want to be able to bolt all the dr800 plastic on my 650. wondering if it willl work or how much fabricating i would have to do? thanx for your help
cheers mott

It is totally and completely different. Even sheer size-wise it won't fit, it will be a bit of a small bike in oversized clothes

[Ladder106]

When you look at the diagram, the greyed-out parts are supersede (decompressor relay and decomp. switch).
The tricky part is to connect the '96 CDI to the old loom. On the scheme you can see which wire from the CDI has to be connected to the accordant wire on the loom.
The only thing you have to rewire is above the three connectors!

Lars....many thanks.

For some reason I never noticed the greyed-out parts. I was concentrating on the CDI unit .....and....I was looking at a file that was much too small. I increased the size so I could see.

Then I looked up the word "enfallt" which google translated as "deleted"

So, I would appear that I would have to cut the decompressor circuit completely out of the wiring system on the SR41 wiring harness.

I've never really understood why the decompressor was part of the ignition system in the first place.


However.....this does not seem like something that can be done and then easily restored to the original SR41 system.

Is there any huge advantage to using the later CDI?

If I remember... someone (probably you) said that the later models had 3 "timing moments" rather than one. I'm not certain what this means or how it's an advantage.

Also there are certain wires on the SR43 CDI that are not used. Any idea what their purpose was?


My reason for asking about using the SR43 flywheel and CDI in the SR41 will be aparent in the next post

[Ladder106]

After living with my transplanted SR43 engine for a few more days and few more miles, I find I have a love/hate relationship with it.

I love the taller gearing.

I love the bit of extra power that this engine seems to have.


I HATE the Vvvibbbraaation !!


Yes, I know that the Big is NOT a Goldwing and I don't expect that kind of feeling.

But my SR41 engine ran with much less vibration than the SR43. I've put in 6 to 8 hr days riding the SR41 with no problems.

The SR43 engine actually it starting to make my hands numb.

This is not acceptable for me.

Some History

When I had the SR43 engine out of the frame and on the bench, I had to remove the SR43 flywheel, stator and ignition coil and replace it with the SR41 parts so the electronics would work. This has been successful and the bike starts easily and runs well.

While the flywheel was off, I noticed that the balancer chain was quite slack.

I adjusted the chain and found that the chain appeared to have been changed completely at some point since there were no "chrome" indicator links to be seen.

The chain adjusted easily and the tensioner mechanism ended up about in the middle of the slots provided. I believe this is telling me that the chain is in good condition and not "stretched" to the point of throwing the balancer shafts out of phase.

Per the service manual, I counted the links between the indicator marks on the crankshaft (at TDC) and the two balancer shafts.....I counted them many, many times while I turned the crank with a wrench to make certain that they were timed correctly.

Presently

Now it feels as if the balancers are NOT where they should be. The bike is not jumping the front wheel off the ground at idle or anything dramatic, but while riding, the vibration is obviously stronger than the SR41 was.

I asked this question over at drbig.info. and was advised that the difference between the 41 and the 43 was noticed by others as well and that was just the difference in the larger displacement bike.



So.....for those of you with both models. I'd like to have your opinions.

Does the SR43 vibrate more than the SR41? Does it make the SR43 uncomfortable to ride?


I have a few things I can do. I have bar-end weights to experiment with and I also have 2 sets of "Vibranators" from Ricor with different weights.

I also have just received a brand new official Suzuki balancer chain (complete with the nice shiny "indicator" links) and was thinking about pulling off the old chain and replacing it with the official part.

I am also wondering if running the SR41 flywheel on the SR43 engine had any affect on vibration. If I'm thinking about this correctly (possibly not) any flywheel should be balanced and should make no difference.

However, I did notice that the SR43 flywheel had a metal strip added to one side of the flywheel and welded onto the outside. The strip was about 4 cm long and about 1cm wide. A balancer weight? or was this used to compensate for the weight of the SR43 piston and different characteristics due to the shorter stroke. The SR41 flywheel had no weight or metal strip added.

Any idea are appreciated.

Apologies once again for the long post. It seems I can't just ask simple questions any longer.

[Longdude]

I don't feel I should be interrupting this latest thread, but I just want to show off my refurbished wheels...............then I'll go away..........

[Ladder106]

Threads are meant to be interrupted....no problem.

Nice wheels.

Are the spokes new originals or stainless steel?

I am never able to get a tire mounted without at least scratching the rim one time.....well done.

[Longdude]

Thanks Mate,
But it was not me, I paid a shop to do it, I'm useless at wheel rebuilding. I went for galvanised spokes, cheaper and not so brittle with more flex, so better for off road (and cheaper). Not that I'll be doing the Dakar on it . The shop I use has blanks and bends and threads them to suit.

[Resi]

Ray, you're welcome.

If you have access to blank connectors used on the loom you can easily make an CDI-swap.
Okay, it's not a "5 minute waiting for a beer" job, but not that hard to get some gray hairs...

Later BIG models had a throttle position sensor, AFAIK to keep the bike in (german) enviroment pollution laws.
I heard about that the CDI "recognizes" that the bike is driven in test mode (over here 50km/h over some seconds) and reduces ignition some degrees to reduce HP and noise. But I never tested it out...

Each flywheel should be balanced out by Suzuki, so you can interchange them.

What I figured out: On my green SR43 the engine is vibrating when using a Laser ProDuro can.
After I changed the exhaust system to a double can system the vibrations went pretty low...

Cheers,
Lars

[robmoto]

Ray my motard is fairly light weight and has KTM forks with no rubber type mounting for the handle bars , I use those vibrinators in the bars and it will still give me numb hands in no time , Just recently I bought some pro taper ATV postrarmi bend bars and pro taper medium density rockstar grips this helped a fair bit and the bars were more comfortable roughly about 40 percent better than before I changed.
The main problem is really the solid mount with the KTM forks .
My yella terra bike is now a 800 and allso has lost some weight, I have never done any long road rides on it only a lot of dirt as the tracks and back roads are where I live and close by and I am using the same as above but no vibranators as I don,t want any extra weight but have fairy light weight bark busters from procycle, moose brand .
Both these bikes have a lot of grunt and you can feel the thumps low down an mid range if using the throttle heavy.
My standard you might as well say, red 750 is rather smooth but with same thumping low down and standard mirrors.
My orange 750 is fairly smooth but get numb hands after say 1.5 to 2 hrs I have bark busters the ozz ones fitted and a pro duo with shorter stem 650 mirrors.
My blue bike had the small DIA alloy bars and was fairly smooth but the throttle return spring was a bit to strong and I used to get a sore rist and not to bad numb fingers.
I have just done work on a SR/42 in standard trim except for a produo exaust I put on it and sort off think it was the smoothest of the lot, which is totaly opposite to what Lars said so just maybe every bike has its own characteristics
Funny now that I think of it I only get it in the right hand, so is it the throttle tube vibrating arround the handle bars.
Just a thought maybe thats why SR/42 had those long mirror stems , and to come to think of it that SR/42 I just worked on for Shanefalcon fellow inmate he had extra extensions on his mirrors .
Ray some times when I am riding long distances on road I will put a finger on the end of my thumb tip and allternate fingers and this helps heaps , its called old age mate, live with it , and suffer .
I find these bike really to be no worse my 2008 650, and are you running knobbies might have something to do with it as well riding on tar.

[robmoto]

Long dude the wheels look terrific but whats with all the weights those tyre must be out of whack heaps .