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Old 04-09-2013, 12:57 AM   #14311
wundis
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Location: Vilnius, Lithuania
Oddometer: 74
It looks good mait, i think here in the Baltics we have another 2 weeks till the season starts :)

As you are about to do the same thing I am about to do - any ideas on the camchain tensioner locking tool? Does anyone have any recommendations on how to make it?

Also, those 200 and 195 mm stud bolts - the areas by the thread are different, which one is top and which one is bottom?
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:37 AM   #14312
robmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor View Post
you got the motobat for less than 130 much less !!!!!
Doc didn,t he want 150, and seeing you know him I got it for 130, that's what I recall, Its fucked now so it don,t matter any way .
Batteries Direct is the way to go, I was only stating that I had a failue with a Motobat as we were talkig batteries and giving this brand another try , I also bought the second dearest charger to suit..
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:38 AM   #14313
mait
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Wundis, I've managed to use ordinary screwdriver instead of cam chain tool previously. How exactly I don't remember. Just be creative, maybe some tape and wire

I've never removed the stud bolts from crankcase, no idea whisch way they go in... According to CMSNL the shorter one is on the left side the rear one. It is also different color than the other 3.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:50 AM   #14314
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Mait , good to see that the bike is nealy ready although the weather is still a bit cold .
when you put the cam in and time it, the marks on the cam that should be parraell to the head are usually about 2 degrees out , even with a new cam chain, if yours is way more and I am only thinking from the top of my head, it may be possible to turn the cam cog around and drill a new hole for the locating pin .
I don,t know if this will keep the straighjt up and down allingment the same as, I don,t have a cog in front of me to look at.
This is only a suggestion and may be for you worth looking into . or get the hole welded and re drill it lar,s would know as he is the metal man .
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:35 AM   #14315
MrPopples
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No Ladder, that's not helpful ... now I'm lurking ebay
I have a SR43, if the airbox is fine, I might just change the filter with a "washable foam" that would let more air in.
I have a full inox exhaust (hessler manifold + laser pro duro)
I guess I just need the carbs now ...
and maybe a nice camshaft ... but after that, I'm stopping

anyone tried buying two separate (identical) carbs and put them together?
seems I could have a "similar" experience for way less money using two Keihin FCR 37 from a 250 RMZ :)
there's plenty on ebay ... and some used are around 100 euros ... :)

just gotta understand why there is so many on ebay ... might be that the carb suxx ?

other news: I should be receiving a 450 SXV fork in the end of the week ...
stay tuned :P
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:47 AM   #14316
Ladder106
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I've no practical experience with the SR43 yet as mine is still in "rebuild mode" but from what I understand and can see, the 43 airbox is vast improvement over the 41/42 model. You should be OK there.

I use an FCR 39 on my DRZ400. It's one of the most complicated carbs in existence. There is a vast selection of fuel jets, needles, air bleed jets, air compensating jets, accelerator pump timing, vacuum break diaphragms in the slide, etc.

Jetting one or a pair of these from scratch would be quite time consuming. If the Big was a bike you could just pull the carbs from it wouldn't be quite so bad but with the " remove the side panels and pull the tank " routine every time, it would have me mental in about a month. They are great carbs if the jetting work is done for you so you only have minor adjustments to do but would be a real hair-puller if starting from zero. This is why Stefans carbs are so expensive. He wants (and rightly so) to recoup the time spent fiddling with tiny pieces of brass.

The FCR is also the only carb I've seen actually wear out (which may be why there are so many on eBay).

The slide rides up and down in the carb on 4 tiny plastic wheels (odd but true). If owners are not meticulous (as most are NOT) about air filter maintenance, the wheels will wear grooves into the aluminium carb body. This results in the slide having too much in and out play and engine vacuum actually holding the slide in place during high manifold pressures like on overrun and at idle. This gives you a bike with a hanging idle or a bike whose idle speed can not be set since it keeps changing. Eventually, if the play gets too great, air passes around the slide rather than through the jets (path of least resistance) causing all manner of fueling nightmares.

I was actually (lessons learned) victim to one of these worn carbs and after a few weeks I finally decided that there was nothing I could do to save it and layed out my brass for a new one.

Building a linkage to have two of these guys working together would be another interesting project all by itself.

So, not saying it's impossible, just that it's not really a Plug n Play operation.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:52 AM   #14317
motolab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
I use an FCR 39 on my DRZ400. It's one of the most complicated carbs in existence. There is a vast selection of fuel jets, needles, air bleed jets, air compensating jets, accelerator pump timing, vacuum break diaphragms in the slide, etc.
It is complicated, but not why you assert, as aside from idle and WOT, everything is on the needle. The reason that makes matters complicated is that the needle must therefore be the correct shape for 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 openings to work correctly, whereas on most other carbs there are other circuits to deal with 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 openings, meaning that only 1/2 and 3/4 openings must be correct via the needle. Two points define a line, and therefore a single taper at the right height can simultaneously provide the correct fueling for two openings such as 1/2 and 3/4. On the FCR 1/8 opening can be dialed in with the base diameter, and usually 1/16 is then correct. That leaves 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 that must be correct on the taper, which may not be achieveable with the single taper needles available from Keihin's aftermarket division. There are multiple taper needles used in OEM applications, but it is very difficult to find them all (they are spread across multiple manufacturers), and only part of the letter code corresponds to the conventions established by Keihin's aftermarket division, so it's really difficult to tell what effect any given OEM needle will have by looking at the code. Some, but by no means all of these have been analyzed and the information has been put into the public domain by skilled and generous individuals. Unfortunately, there are often cases when neither Keihin aftermarket division, nor OEM needles will give the correct mixture at all openings. If someone like J.D. doesn't have a needle in his line up that fits the bill, a needle must be modified to work. Woe unto him who tries to do this on a multi-cylinder rack of FCRs.
Quote:
Jetting one or a pair of these from scratch would be quite time consuming.
Yes indeed.
Quote:
The FCR is also the only carb I've seen actually wear out (which may be why there are so many on eBay).
Others wear out too.
Quote:
Building a linkage to have two of these guys working together would be another interesting project all by itself.
FCRs to fit the BIG can be bought off the shelf.
Quote:
So, not saying it's impossible, just that it's not really a Plug n Play operation.
Due to jetting, you're likely to be correct.

Regards,

Derek
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:27 PM   #14318
GRinCR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ausibatla View Post
How cool would he be in an "oh sh*t" moment and in need of evasive maneuvers?

Loving the DR Bigs. Can't imagine the fun one would be.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:30 PM   #14319
mait
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Thanks for the suggestion Robmoto, I will check the alignment for sure. But simple maths show that grinding head surface 0.09mm will not affect camshaft timing more than 0.2 - 0.3 degrees. It is rough estimation because I didn't have time to measure cam sprocket diameter. Nothing to really worry about. I guess cam chain will stretch during its entire life more than that and the bike still runs fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
Mait , good to see that the bike is nealy ready although the weather is still a bit cold .
when you put the cam in and time it, the marks on the cam that should be parraell to the head are usually about 2 degrees out , even with a new cam chain, if yours is way more and I am only thinking from the top of my head, it may be possible to turn the cam cog around and drill a new hole for the locating pin .
I don,t know if this will keep the straighjt up and down allingment the same as, I don,t have a cog in front of me to look at.
This is only a suggestion and may be for you worth looking into . or get the hole welded and re drill it lar,s would know as he is the metal man .
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:41 AM   #14320
aapo
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Location: Finland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPopples View Post
No Ladder, that's not helpful ... now I'm lurking ebay
I have a SR43, if the airbox is fine, I might just change the filter with a "washable foam" that would let more air in.
I have a full inox exhaust (hessler manifold + laser pro duro)
I guess I just need the carbs now ...
and maybe a nice camshaft ... but after that, I'm stopping

anyone tried buying two separate (identical) carbs and put them together?
seems I could have a "similar" experience for way less money using two Keihin FCR 37 from a 250 RMZ :)
there's plenty on ebay ... and some used are around 100 euros ... :)

just gotta understand why there is so many on ebay ... might be that the carb suxx ?

other news: I should be receiving a 450 SXV fork in the end of the week ...
stay tuned :P
I read from finninsh formun one guy who used two carbs with acceleration pumb originally from DR600. I don't know the specific model. But it required also some mechanical work with intake manifods and airbox and some serious tuning and jetting

-aapo
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:46 AM   #14321
MrPopples
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Talking

Thanks guys for your advise. really helpful :)

seeing the Mikuni are so expensive, the FCR are so hard to tune ...
I might just buy a Microsquirt ECU (http://www.microsquirt.info/), that would be a little less money than the Mikuni (but not much) ... and it might prove easier for me than jetting the FCR (I'm doing programming for smartphones) ... and quite challenging

or I can take care of the Fork and rear shock before tampering with the engine ... yeah, that's what I gonna do :)
one thing after another ...

cheers
I'll post pics when the bike looks nice ;)
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:55 AM   #14322
mait
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I think there is no cheap or easy solution if you want to tune the intake.
For fuel injected Big check these links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlyDYvoajPs
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=417178



Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPopples View Post
Thanks guys for your advise. really helpful :)

seeing the Mikuni are so expensive, the FCR are so hard to tune ...
I might just buy a Microsquirt ECU (http://www.microsquirt.info/), that would be a little less money than the Mikuni (but not much) ... and it might prove easier for me than jetting the FCR (I'm doing programming for smartphones) ... and quite challenging

or I can take care of the Fork and rear shock before tampering with the engine ... yeah, that's what I gonna do :)
one thing after another ...

cheers
I'll post pics when the bike looks nice ;)
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:37 AM   #14323
Ladder106
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Quote:
I'll post pics when the bike looks nice
You needn't wait. We're all used to seeing "used" bikes here and enjoy watching them being reborn.

I'm a bit confused about the EFI controller. Wouldn't you still have to sort all the hardware problems involved with converting to an injector system, intake air sensor, exhaust sensors etc. Personally, I'd rather spend my time jetting carbs. But then I do not own even one injected bike so the whole thing is just MAGIC to me...Black Magic at that.

Depending on the type of riding you do, spending money for a good quality rear shock and improving the front forks will certainly give you more overall performance per dollar/euro/pound than any other modification you can make to the bike. The standard engine makes good power IMHO and there doesn't seem to be any really easy solution to making it produce significantly more.

Good suspension will let you at least get most of the power to the ground particularly if you're riding off-road.
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Old 04-11-2013, 02:04 AM   #14324
robmoto
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seem to be any really easy solution to making it produce significantly more.
Yes there is, pumper carbs, large air cleaner, larger header , open can, and a reground cam .
whats so hard this is a easy solution ,
But it is true what you said earlier about tyre wear, Ray 500klm out of a Dunlop 606 . when there down to the last 1/3 of tread depth I chuckem but you can still have a lot of fun with that last bit .
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:58 AM   #14325
spen
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After much thought i am going to buy a complete ss system for the DR i bought this GSXR can as i was going to fit it .It is as new not a mark on it ,so before i ebay it it"s for sale on here ,like i said it is as new .40 plus postage


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