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Old 05-21-2013, 06:45 AM   #14521
mait
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Pedro,

you can find diagram on Resi's website, use google translate if you need.
http://bollertante.de/site/index.php...laene-in-farbe

There is nothing too complicated. I just lost a bunch of wires, connectors and switches on mine and relocated voltage regulator and CDI. All as a part of air filter project. Some day there will be photos, too.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:50 AM   #14522
robmoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mait View Post
Has anyone measured current draw on DR800 starter motor while cranking cold engine?
Or does anybody know the wattage of the starter motor?

I bought one of those Lifepo4 batteries and want to use a quick disconnect plug for it. I would like to buy the smallest possible plug but big enough to handle the Amps.
Have a look here and you can see the DIA of the size of the wires to suit the plug.
http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/sh...FUISpQodQD0AOg
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:55 AM   #14523
p3dro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mait View Post
Pedro,

you can find diagram on Resi's website, use google translate if you need.
http://bollertante.de/site/index.php...laene-in-farbe

There is nothing too complicated. I just lost a bunch of wires, connectors and switches on mine and relocated voltage regulator and CDI. All as a part of air filter project. Some day there will be photos, too.
Thanks mait, got it & emailed it to the garage. I hope this helps them....
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:31 PM   #14524
wundis
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pew pew pew

long story (the lazy bastards should read the last sentence of my post only)

removed the carbs again (or were they removed already, it's all a mist to me right now - unburn gasoline fuses are kicking in), oiled the orings before placing in the valve seats and the float assembly - they even made a pop sound when i put them in. so nice. though ive put in old valve seats and new float valves - the old ones with new orings fit much nicer.
anyhow, measured the float level, it was really nice to see some zeroes for the first time. can't be true I thought and punched the carbs a few times. still 0 mm

carbs back in, fuel tank on - brrrrr rap rap rap. wtf - it was doing the same thing again :(

tank off, temporary tank on - my original intention was to check the float level with the carbs on the actual bike, but then I thought, ill check the choke functioning etc, maybe something is stuck.
I started the bike, same thing happened, choke was functioning nothing stuck. and then I had the light bulb moment again. WHAT IF IT IS THE FUEL PUMP?! i disconnected the vacuum line from the carb and vuala - it started to run like a charm, vacuum line back on - hit'n'miss engine again with all that smoke.
And then I remembered that I've read somewhere - the membranes on old fuel pumps gets tired, and become more stiff - and pump more fuel. More fuel means more pressure means the weak float valves leak more fuel = higher fuel level in the carbs. seems logical to me...

How on earth did I not think of that earlier...

Anyhow, where should I source some replacement membranes? Ebay? Or perhaps get a replacement fuel pump alltogether? On the other hand I can ride by not hitting reserve by using natural flow :)




you lazy bastards! it was the f*cking fuel pump!
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Old 05-21-2013, 03:50 PM   #14525
Simosez
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stuffing around with carbies on and off all the time is heaps more fun than the easy access fuel pump

nice work.
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Old 05-21-2013, 05:33 PM   #14526
Ladder106
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I may be a lazy.....a bastard....dunno, my parents pretty much took full responsibility (although that cost them a few dollars from time to tim) for my existence.

But I did suggest the fuel pump as a problem:

Quote:
How about using a small remote gravity feed fuel source ( I use an old primus fuel bottle). That will eliminate the force of the fuel pump and only provide "head" pressure
See post 14512


So the collective here does get some credit.

Now quit farting about ... go out and break in that new engine the right way.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:04 PM   #14527
wundis
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hehe :)

of course the solution was collective, without you guys i'd probably be still crying in the garage. the amount of information with regards to fixing bigs is huge in here, plus drbig.info, plus the russian fan site.

and yes, breaking in. gonna be back for more complains!
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:28 AM   #14528
robmoto
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Well if you weren,y so tight and bought original Suzuki needle and seets you wouldn,t have the problem
Pluss how come all of a sudden the diaphragms are hard it would take a long time for this to happen, so was it blowing all that black smoke before or did you just get the bike and it was not running.
I use 3 pumps on 3 of my bikes and they are 25 year old pumps and don,t have a problem, but allways buy original parts for the carbs.
The 2 needles I tested yesterday were 28/30 grams and that bike did not have black smoke and Idling problems, I took those carbs off to fit some pumpers and that's why they were handy to do the test.
So there still maybe just maybe a problem still lingering as the after market ones you bought were similar to the ones I tested for you.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:28 AM   #14529
wundis
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Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
Well if you weren,y so tight and bought original Suzuki needle and seets you wouldn,t have the problem
Pluss how come all of a sudden the diaphragms are hard it would take a long time for this to happen, so was it blowing all that black smoke before or did you just get the bike and it was not running.
I use 3 pumps on 3 of my bikes and they are 25 year old pumps and don,t have a problem, but allways buy original parts for the carbs.
The 2 needles I tested yesterday were 28/30 grams and that bike did not have black smoke and Idling problems, I took those carbs off to fit some pumpers and that's why they were handy to do the test.
So there still maybe just maybe a problem still lingering as the after market ones you bought were similar to the ones I tested for you.
nonono, needle valve and seat are original suzuki parts. i was only tight when i connected my temporary tank to the fuel pump, rather than directly into the carb :)

the bike has been standing "open" since mid october, it had problems before related to high fuel consumption, rather poor performance probably related to the rich mixture. I am thinking that the fuel pump was shite back then already (and i think the dry holiday didnt help either), my theory is that since one of the float valves was incredibly strong (50g compared to the other one at 20g), the excess fuel from the fuel pump affected only one carb (the one with the weaker float valve), thus I had problems but couldn't trace the cause. I did check the float level last year, as far as I remember it was like +4 on the carb with weaker float valve.

anyhow. I want to ride it before I sort out my fuel pump - get a DF44-211 or a repair kit (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIKUNI-PEN...item4855116fa1) for the current one.

any advice on bypassing the fuel pump? disconnecting the vacuum line is obviously the easiest way, but i'm pretty sure it will cause the carb to suck something in.

wundis screwed with this post 05-22-2013 at 01:53 AM
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:46 AM   #14530
CCM/GARRY
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buying parts online

Well what a nightmare this is turning out to be you can"t add to the cart on the english version on HESSLER DR SHOP so i did it in german. Now it will not accept my address have send emails & fax and phoned the poor woman didn"t have a clue what i was saying must be my ozzy accent. I just want to fix my bike and go ridding . If your out their STEFAN please help me.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:29 AM   #14531
Simosez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCM/GARRY View Post
Well what a nightmare this is turning out to be you can"t add to the cart on the english version on HESSLER DR SHOP so i did it in german. Now it will not accept my address have send emails & fax and phoned the poor woman didn"t have a clue what i was saying must be my ozzy accent. I just want to fix my bike and go ridding . If your out their STEFAN please help me.
it's good that you are being the guinea pig. i need to get some stuff from there as well. let me know when you have it sorted
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:45 AM   #14532
robmoto
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Wundis old Mate I thought you replaced the needle and seets with after market ones then found the seet part with O rings was loose so then used original seets with new O rings because they were a firmer fit with new after market needles, anyway I am a bit confused now so I will leave it all to you .
The hose that goes to the inlet on the fuel pump will now go straight to the carb inlet, put a inline filer in the line .
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:56 AM   #14533
Simosez
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i've finally got my new bits so i can start my bike
old on the left, new on the right. the brushes wore down so far that there was no longer sufficient tension holding the brushes against the commutator. you can see the damaged commutator caused by excessive arcing. you can also see the large gap between brushes on the old compared to the new.
check your brushes on high mileage bikes. luckily the new armature was $240. a new starter motor is $1012au
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:15 AM   #14534
robmoto
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Great to see you finally got the parts Simon, are you coming over on Sunday.
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Old 05-22-2013, 06:51 AM   #14535
Simosez
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i'll try to. i'll let you know later in the week.
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