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Old 10-15-2012, 10:26 AM   #1531
bobfab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1zero View Post
What exhaust is that? Looks great with that headlamp too!
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:55 PM   #1532
1zero
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Hi Bob, yes the headlight assy, tailpipe and even the black frame protectors transform the looks of the bike to the 20th century
The tailpipe is off a RMZ250 2006 model, all thats needed is a machined up spacer bush(32mm ID-38mmOD) at the header pipe end and a fabricated bracket at the muffler mounting point, I didn't bother with the mid pipe bolt.
The DRZ std tailpipe is approx 3.9Kg, RMZ is approx 2.3Kg - so it's a good 'high weight' saving, quite noticeable when riding.
Cheers, talk soon.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:34 AM   #1533
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Thumb

Quote:
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Quick question for you DRZ riders, who of you run the TM28 pumper carb and if you have re-jetted etc and to what size jets and how many turns out on the fuel screw? mines rejetted and generally 'fiddled' with just curious as to others experiences, cheers guys.
Hi,

I Dynojetted mine,
The jet sizes are marked different from the standard jets that you can get through a dealer. I have mine fitted with the DJ116 Jet as recomended by Dynojet. Another noteable point is the new needle supplied with the kit is quite a different shape than the standard one. Aside from that the fuel srew 3 and 1/4 to 3 and 1/2 turns out with the standard piolet jet fitted. Bike runs great, good top end. Intake mods: more holes in top of airbox. Exhaust mods: weld removed at headder pipe, tip restrictor removed.

Cheers
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Old 10-17-2012, 12:42 PM   #1534
tdrrally OP
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i have a full yoshi,
uni filter and airbox mod
the jet kit for the main and called sudco for the pilot
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:21 PM   #1535
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WOW thats massive 3.5+ turns out you know if the bldy fuel screw wasn't so incredibly difficult to adjust i'd do it whilst out riding to test different settings, mines out 1.75 turns, up a bit on old setting of 1.5 turns out - it's definitely crisper in the throttle response now, maybe i'll go a bit more
Mines re jetted to the Soviet boys supplied 'Uncorking Guide' + header weld goneburger+opened up air box+Twinair air filter+ the extra 10% magic is a non-'O ring 520 drive chain(it really does make a difference)+2x extra teeth on rear sprocket. Cheers.



Quote:
Originally Posted by roleyrev View Post
Hi,

I Dynojetted mine,
The jet sizes are marked different from the standard jets that you can get through a dealer. I have mine fitted with the DJ116 Jet as recomended by Dynojet. Another noteable point is the new needle supplied with the kit is quite a different shape than the standard one. Aside from that the fuel srew 3 and 1/4 to 3 and 1/2 turns out with the standard piolet jet fitted. Bike runs great, good top end. Intake mods: more holes in top of airbox. Exhaust mods: weld removed at headder pipe, tip restrictor removed.

Cheers
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:23 PM   #1536
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Nice do you have tailpipe only or header as well?


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Originally Posted by tdrrally View Post
i have a full yoshi,
uni filter and airbox mod
the jet kit for the main and called sudco for the pilot
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:26 PM   #1537
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BTW - this is a very good site with lots of info on adventure riding a DRZ250 and bike setup etc.

http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/arti...0-adv-bike.php
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:02 PM   #1538
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header and tail
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:05 PM   #1539
roleyrev
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Originally Posted by 1zero View Post
WOW thats massive 3.5+ turns out you know if the bldy fuel screw wasn't so incredibly difficult to adjust i'd do it whilst out riding to test different settings, mines out 1.75 turns, up a bit on old setting of 1.5 turns out - it's definitely crisper in the throttle response now, maybe i'll go a bit more
Mines re jetted to the Soviet boys supplied 'Uncorking Guide' + header weld goneburger+opened up air box+Twinair air filter+ the extra 10% magic is a non-'O ring 520 drive chain(it really does make a difference)+2x extra teeth on rear sprocket. Cheers.
Yeah the fuel screw was the bain of my existance when tuning the bike up. I was thinking of going down the road of an adjustable fuel screw but having it tuned it now seems unnecessary. Most of my inspriation came from the uncorking guide as well, I use a Twinair and an O2rush filters (alturnate). The only reason I run 3.5 turns out was to get the bike to idle, check out (about half way down page):
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzit...carburetor.htm
this will show you where each part effiects tuning in the carb. The Dynojet kit was about the only jets that I could find for the bike in this part of the world.

Cheers John

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Old 10-18-2012, 07:32 PM   #1540
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Which part of the planet are you John?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:05 PM   #1541
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Which part of the planet are you John?

Christchurch,
New Zealand

Ha - just noted your from NZ too!
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:09 PM   #1542
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we need some pictures of drz/djebels 250s ect. from around the world in here!!


where are you and what pix do you have ?
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:58 PM   #1543
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Drz - fmx :-)

Heres a photo and vid of my FMX abilities - maybe i'll talk to Pastrana as a fill in
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:07 PM   #1544
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coolness

i looked into an mx drz250 at one time

i was going to remove the e-start and battery, long story short the drz needs it battery to run right

a capacitor might work to replace the battery, i have not tried yet

keep up the cool pix
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Old 10-21-2012, 04:49 PM   #1545
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Exactly the same thinking i've had for a while now, ditch the starter motor and battery to shed some weight - but I just can't bring myself round to not having the E-Start . I think your right about the cap, i've read somewhere about what size cap to put in place of the battery.

Other mods/improvements i've been contemplating are:
1) Either replace the oil cooler with a larger unit to lower the oil temp particularly for Summer months OR fit another cooler in series with existing and mount on other side of front main down tube, make it look factory.
According to digital infrared temp guage i'm getting 125C on a hot day.

Any ideas/thoughts on this would be appreciated.


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coolness

i looked into an mx drz250 at one time

i was going to remove the e-start and battery, long story short the drz needs it battery to run right

a capacitor might work to replace the battery, i have not tried yet

keep up the cool pix
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