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Old 03-16-2013, 08:30 PM   #1771
redleger
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Location: Tornado Alley, Oklahoma
Oddometer: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by eakins View Post
unless you own the full pro/shop version of the motion pro chain break tool w/ the special hardened pins, you should always grind down the heads of the rivets 1st. harbor freight has a $10 light duty grinder. you need a chain tool to shorter any chain. there is no way around it, unless you buy the proper length to start with. harbor freight has an ok chain tool and there are better $50 ones out there.
So I finally got around to doing it last week after I found someone with a chain tool. I pulled everything apart and found that once again, what I was told was stock was not, and the front sprocket was an 11T. I decided what the heck, lets try 11/52. I finally got decent enough weather here in WA to get some riding time in and that is way too low! I can't even keep the rear tire under the bike, and 2nd and 3rd gear are basically useless because of the torque. I was wide open on the entrance road and felt like I was doing 30 MPH.

I am gonna stick on this 12T that I got and see if that helps. according to www.sprocketcalculator.com that should drop me from 20% down to 13% bottom end. I also realize that I need a new rear tire because the grip today sucked.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:14 PM   #1772
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Just incase anyone is still following this. I put on the sprockets and the new rear tire. Did a quick 5 min ride around the area behind my house. 12T front 50T rear. Less low end, more top end which is not what I wanted, but last ride was unbearable on speed. My guess is my riding ability is above the bike. I thought it would be a nice mixture of low maintenance and trail riding, but here in WA where the riding can be gnarly, I feel like the bike is lacking.

good news is I am moving in a month and I heard OK is pretty much flat and easy riding. So hopefully I will get a few more years of riding out of this bike down there. Here is a picture of the new tire. I put on a bridgestone because the manager at my bike shop said she suggested it for the southern OK dirt/clay there.



On a side note I do not have a manual. The oil bubble is supposed to read where when the engine is running? It reads full when it is cold, but today when it was warmed up and running, it showed none in the bubble. Input on this would be nice. Thank you for all the input I have received on this bike.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:21 AM   #1773
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this might help

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Old 03-22-2013, 07:25 AM   #1774
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12/50 that bike should be a billy goat

the engine will be crank the revs and the bike moving at walking speed, wheelie king

go call for the mountains, for the desert a 14/48 is a bit closer (maybe)

i run a 13/49 in the woods of wv and a 15/46 on the street with a 13/49 as ds gearing
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:23 AM   #1775
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12/50 that bike should be a billy goat

the engine will be crank the revs and the bike moving at walking speed, wheelie king

go call for the mountains, for the desert a 14/48 is a bit closer (maybe)

i run a 13/49 in the woods of wv and a 15/46 on the street with a 13/49 as ds gearing

Well thats why I am starting to think there is something else wrong. Because this bike seems very power light to me. I am very unhappy with it. I should be popping up and keeping the front wheel up on the trails. I seem to always be burying the front wheel alot. Even on my DR350 I can keep it fast through the gnarly stuff, although I wrestle with it because of weight.

I am not sure why it seems to be so light on power.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:03 AM   #1776
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Your oil level

Yes when the engine is running you will show none to very little in the sight window. This is because it is drawn into the engine and cooling "radiator, " then when the engine stops gravity draws it back to the lower part of the engine. Book gives a process of running the engine up to temperature and then shutting it down. Wait approx three minutes and check the sight window. At this point the level should show between the low and full marks.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:11 AM   #1777
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Thank you Privateer! That makes me feel alot better.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:44 AM   #1778
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Originally Posted by redleger View Post
Well thats why I am starting to think there is something else wrong. Because this bike seems very power light to me. I am very unhappy with it. I should be popping up and keeping the front wheel up on the trails. I seem to always be burying the front wheel alot. Even on my DR350 I can keep it fast through the gnarly stuff, although I wrestle with it because of weight.

I am not sure why it seems to be so light on power.
have you uncorked it ?
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:27 PM   #1779
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have you uncorked it ?
It was the first thing I did. I also had issues with the california carb after words. I actually had to cover the airbox back up. Its runs now and I am scared to mess with it anymore. I know I should he buying a new carb if I want more out of it but I have already put in so much money that if the carb doesnt add the snappiness and HP I am lookng for then I will just be trading it in anyway.

She is also very cold blooded. i am not sure if that is a symptom or just the way it is. I have ridden many other bikes and this is the first one i havent felt like i had the power i needed.
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:54 PM   #1780
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you need some jets for sure or

a dr250 off road carb will work with the drz250 pumper carb intake manifold
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:01 PM   #1781
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I know they are the same, I have been keeping an eye out on EBAY. TM33 would be nice as well. I am sure a new Carb would fix alot of the snappiness issues, but would it fix the power problem? I ordered the Dynojet kit prior to reading and learning about "How to uncork your DRZ" I already spent the money, so I used it. The jets in that kit I believe are smaller than the ones from the write up.

If I ordered the Jets from the write up, open the air box back up will that add some power?
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:04 PM   #1782
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the tm28 will help the low end performace more than the 33
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:14 PM   #1783
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OK, ill keep an eye out for a TM28. Anything has got to be better than that BSR though.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:18 PM   #1784
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This the right one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-TM28-...sories&vxp=mtr
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:22 PM   #1785
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its for a 2 stroke

the carb you need will use the same throttle cable you have

also you will need the intake manifold to work right
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