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Old 07-30-2008, 09:26 AM   #16
FOCKER
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdbx
This is a great writeup bud. Thank you!

I'd like to pose a few questions to you.

Can you play with your idea of slicing the back off the earphones? Perhaps closing them off with a solid mold instead of earplugs and tape? Something like silicone gel of sorts...
Good thinking. What about a material like Dynamat? It comes if different applications and it's self adhesive. The draw back is the quantity one would have to buy...Maybe a local car audio shop would cough up some leftovers which would be the perfect amount for headphones.
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Old 07-30-2008, 11:10 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawa-Krazy
Good thinking. What about a material like Dynamat? It comes if different applications and it's self adhesive. The draw back is the quantity one would have to buy...Maybe a local car audio shop would cough up some leftovers which would be the perfect amount for headphones.
I tried that lining the cavity around the ear piece in my Baehr Silencer (said to be the world's quietest) helmet, on one side. Can't tell any difference between that and the un-Dynamatted other side. Sorry to say.

So far, the best results from Howard Leight NRR33 earplugs, and from shrugging my shoulders to block the occipital opening at the rear of the helmet.

Gonna try one of those Shoei curtain thingies when the weather gets colder.

Also have Skullcandy InkD earbuds, which have 3 differently sized sets of silicone thingies to fit your ear. These earbuds are damn near as good as Ety fancy-assed earbuds, at 1/10 the price. More durable, too. Gonna try the hot nail through NRR33 earplug trick, and fit some Howard Leights onto my Skullcandy earbuds. Stay tuned.
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Old 07-30-2008, 06:26 PM   #18
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Nice work, as usual!! thanks for the step by step pictorial
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Old 07-31-2008, 07:15 PM   #19
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Excellent write up.........Nice job!

That KLR looks the balls. I'd like to see a write up on all the farkl;es that beauty has!

BTW, best way to waterproof that device on the helmet is a , ahem, condom....I'm serious. Perfect waterproof and you can still operate the controls...............
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Old 08-12-2008, 09:32 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawa-Krazy
Good thinking. What about a material like Dynamat? It comes if different applications and it's self adhesive. The draw back is the quantity one would have to buy...Maybe a local car audio shop would cough up some leftovers which would be the perfect amount for headphones.
I'm pretty happy with the cut up ear plug solution, but if I can find better noise attuniation material I'd be willing to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:19 PM   #21
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Great idea, but maybe you could have started with a smaller pair of headphones to have less to cut up :)

One thing though, I'd be wary of inserting any hard materials in the helmet cavity that can't be crushed by your skull, because in an impact they will be hammered into your head. Also, since you've done cutting on the back side of the headphones, those sharp surfaces will cut into the helmet padding preventing it from crushing and cushioning the impact. The styrofoam inside the helmet needs a flat surface to work, a sharp object will just cut through it and reach the hard shell in no time.

wotevah screwed with this post 08-12-2008 at 10:25 PM
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Old 08-13-2008, 08:01 AM   #22
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Hey, that's a great write up! I've often wondered if this technology could be applied to riding. I've seen tank driver helmets done like this and thought that it might work for bikes too. Please keep us posted as you go forward.
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Old 08-13-2008, 12:52 PM   #23
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HEY HEY THATS MY STYLE VERY NICE WORK
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wotevah
Great idea, but maybe you could have started with a smaller pair of headphones to have less to cut up :)

One thing though, I'd be wary of inserting any hard materials in the helmet cavity that can't be crushed by your skull, because in an impact they will be hammered into your head. Also, since you've done cutting on the back side of the headphones, those sharp surfaces will cut into the helmet padding preventing it from crushing and cushioning the impact. The styrofoam inside the helmet needs a flat surface to work, a sharp object will just cut through it and reach the hard shell in no time.
Good points! I'll try to re-cut more material of the housing while still providing the speaker support. Should not affect the function. Many miles logged so far with no issues!
Keith
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Old 08-16-2008, 02:49 PM   #25
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Im just amazed at all the books on the KLR on the shelf,who woulda thought? I have no problems with earplugs doing what I want,just gotta find the right ones. Nice project though!
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Old 08-17-2008, 07:54 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanMoe
Personnaly, I don't like active noise cancellation because you don't decrease the sound pressure. I've tried several different manufacturers of NC equipment (Bose being the most recent) and still prefer attenuation to cancellation.
huh? that's exactly what active NC does - reduce sound pressure in the cavity due to external sounds. works best at low freqs where passive breaks down, so combined passive-active is usually the best solution.
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Old 08-24-2008, 10:51 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wotevah
Great idea, but maybe you could have started with a smaller pair of headphones to have less to cut up :).
These Maxwell brand were the only ones available at a decent price. Low profile Boise type headphones cost ~8x as much.
Keithm

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Old 08-24-2008, 12:23 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755
These Maxwell brand were the only ones available at a decent price. Low profile Boise type headphones cost 10x as much.
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I fixed your post for you
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