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Old 05-04-2015, 01:46 AM   #1
Peanuts OP
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Minimum tools to remove wheels

I am renting a recent model year R800GS for 10 days and the company (Motoquest) do no supply a tool kit. I will feel happier if I have the bare minimum tools to repair a flat tyre.

I think I need a 17/24 wrench to remove the wheel nuts. Do I absolutely have to remove the front caliper to get the wheel out? E12 torx socket if I do. T45 for the axle pinch bolts.

Is the rear axle trapped to prevent it turning or do I need another wrench for the opposite end to the nut?

Do they have security bolts/rimlocks? If so, which size wrench?

Any other tools I am likely to need in 3000 miles of asphalt/hard pack?

Thanks for your help.

Peanuts screwed with this post 05-04-2015 at 01:59 AM
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:40 AM   #2
Nickhob
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this is a comprehensive list of what is needed on a 2013+ F800GS.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=322


to remove the wheels you also need a :

T25 to remove the ABS sensors so they don't get damaged when taking wheel off.

2 x 13mm open ended spanners for the chain tensioners.

the rear axel is trapped so only need the 24mm wrench.

to get the front off you need the 17mm on the left and I use a 19mm hex on the right, some people don't bother with it as the pinch bolts keep it all in place.

yep the brake callipers need to be taken off if not the tire can't fit through.

the T25 is also used to take the panel/faux tank to access the battery.

Oh and if you bring an electrical air pump the stock powerlet socket will not be able to handle the Amp draw, it can only take up to 5A and as an example my air pump draws more than 10A

Enjoy your trip
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:49 AM   #3
IckyBob
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100% you do NOT need to remove the front calipers to get the front wheel off, same goes for putting it back on. I do it all the time.
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:17 AM   #4
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I saw the 70East tool list, very comprehensive but I just want the bare minimum. My normal tool pack for my KTMs is very small and very different to BMW fixings.

Interesting difference of opinion there. This real life experience is what I am looking for as I dont want to carry tools all the way from UK and back if not required.

So for the front I just need the 17 for the axle and T45 for the pinch bolts. Calipers stay put.

Do I really need to mess with the chain adjusters to get the rear out and back in?
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:32 AM   #5
Nickhob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peanuts View Post
I saw the 70East tool list, very comprehensive but I just want the bare minimum. My normal tool pack for my KTMs is very small and very different to BMW fixings.

Interesting difference of opinion there. This real life experience is what I am looking for as I dont want to carry tools all the way from UK and back if not required.

So for the front I just need the 17 for the axle and T45 for the pinch bolts. Calipers stay put.

Do I really need to mess with the chain adjusters to get the rear out and back in?

Not saying to take it all, just a source of info

fwiw I can NOT get the front off without taking the callipers off (its a 20 second job) and I've changed the front many many times.

you need to loosen the chain adjusters to be able to slide the wheel/axel forward to get the chain off the rear sprocket
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Nickhob View Post
you need to loosen the chain adjusters to be able to slide the wheel/axel forward to get the chain off the rear sprocket
No you don't. Just remove the adjusting blocks and slide the wheel forward. That way you don't have to adjust your chain when you put it all back together.
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:45 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by scarygary View Post
No you don't. Just remove the adjusting blocks and slide the wheel forward. That way you don't have to adjust your chain when you put it all back together.
That's what I was hoping, thanks.

What about rimlocks, does the F800GS have them? If so, which wrench do I need?
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Old 05-04-2015, 05:46 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickhob View Post
if you bring an electrical air pump the stock powerlet socket will not be able to handle the Amp draw, it can only take up to 5A and as an example my air pump draws more than 10A
Good point, thanks. I will bring a socket on a lead and connect to the battery. So T25 to get to the battery and probably 10mm for the terminals.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:15 AM   #9
Nickhob
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No you don't. Just remove the adjusting blocks and slide the wheel forward. That way you don't have to adjust your chain when you put it all back together.

hahaha thanks, think you just saved me a whole pile of time/pain next time I take my rear wheel off, had tried it before like that but I couldn't seem to get the chain off the back of the rear sprocket, will try harder next time
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:29 AM   #10
sarathmenon
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+1 on removing the front calipers. Not really needed, but it hardly takes a minute to get both calipers off, makes reinserting the wheel a one minute job. In addition to what was mentioned here, my 2012 has ETorx bolts for the front calipers, it may have changed in the 2013 model.

Motoriley has some really good videos on how to do it, for both rear and front . I'd recommend watching them once. In particular, don't nick that ABS/speed sensor, it can be a very expensive mistake and something you can't fix trail side.
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:21 AM   #11
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Great help, thanks.

So there are no rim locks in the 800GS wheels?

Dead easy puncture repairs :)
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:12 PM   #12
sarathmenon
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So there are no rim locks in the 800GS wheels?
Not unless motoquest fit them, and there is no need to, IMHO. This is a heavy bike, anything lower than 20 psi can taco the wheels. There is plenty of photo evidence in this forum to attest that.

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Dead easy puncture repairs :)
I get this feeling that you haven't wrestled with the bead of the K60 yet. It's easily the best forearm workout that mankind ever invented
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Old 05-04-2015, 12:26 PM   #13
Nickhob
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with any luck you'll get anakee 3's on the bike

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=20
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:08 PM   #14
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I would take a small thing of powder or WD40. Depending on the rear tire, it can be a bear to get it back on.

Sometimes it's just easier to remove the calipers, especially if your alone and have to balance the tire and axle and bike.
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:35 PM   #15
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I remove 1 caliper which does make it a lot easier. Rear... no adjusting but make sure you get it set back against the blocks before you tighten. It's too easy to get it a bit crooked - I know.
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