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Old 08-03-2008, 02:49 AM   #1
rowdy_im OP
KTM 625 Snowy Mountains
 
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Fork Seal replacement info for KTM 625

Can anyone direct me to a link ,or supply some info about changing fork seals on the 625,06 model ,,it seems to be a common prob on these bikes ,so I am sure that the info is out there.

cheers
Rowdy
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Old 08-03-2008, 02:30 PM   #2
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdy_im
Can anyone direct me to a link ,or supply some info about changing fork seals on the 625,06 model ,,it seems to be a common prob on these bikes ,so I am sure that the info is out there.

cheers
Rowdy
I'd be interested in this too. Have an 04 SXC. Assume the 06 uses the same 43mm forks. This said, I've not seen anything in my searching.

Also, can anyone recommend a brand of neoprene seal savers thats works well on the 43mm forks in conjunction with the stock fork guards. I need to add some so I can hopefully postpone seal replacement as long as possible.
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Old 08-03-2008, 05:43 PM   #3
Zerodog
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It is a common problem on any bike ridden in the dirt, not just KTMs. The procedure is the same as the 48mm forks. Meatpopcicle has a great fork service thread that is very informative. If your fork is leaking it is time for service anyway. Your oil will be nasty.

I don't really like seal savers. They can trap grit against your fork leg and the full length ones actually limit travel. I recomend packing your dust seals with some thick waterproof grease. It acts as an extra barrier.

OEM seals are best on KTMs. Racetech is ok. Everything else is junk.
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Old 08-03-2008, 06:07 PM   #4
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodog
Meatpopcicle has a great fork service thread that is very informative.
Hmmn. I'm guessing "Servicing the Fork Seals (thanks Surly! ) "
but the hosted PDF is a bad URL now. I sent Creeper a PM to get the copy. If I get it, I'll try and rehost.

Quote:
I don't really like seal savers. They can trap grit against your fork leg and the full length ones actually limit travel. I recomend packing your dust seals with some thick waterproof grease. It acts as an extra barrier.
Thanks for the advice.
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:06 AM   #5
cevquit
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moose or oem have served well, synergy not so much
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Old 08-04-2008, 12:35 PM   #6
meat popsicle
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I think ZD was referring to THIS thread, which was based on my own work and does not include a seal replacement. But as ZD said, it does include quite a bit of info, including some working links. The link you found CB does have some very good info in it too.

Seems that general consensus is to clean your fork seals first, oh and service your dust seals often (packing them as ZD said). If the cleaning doesn't do the trick then replace the seals. Since you will have to completely disassemble the forks to replace the seals you might as well do a complete service.
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:00 PM   #7
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
The link you found CB does have some very good info in it too.
What are the pdf files referred to in this (above) thread? Anyone have them?

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=23 -- link is bad and it's only one pdf file.

Later in thread:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=28 says "I just sent the boss the two pdf's from Creeper" ..... " I did not send the fork one because it is just a copy of the WP shop manual".

This implies there are 2 pdf docs, neither of which are WP ones. I have all the WP ones (they are on the factory repair cd).

What are these mystery pdf docs? The only other thing I found was:
http://www.wpsuspension.com/service/proline.pdf

Tony

crazybrit screwed with this post 08-04-2008 at 01:36 PM
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:52 PM   #8
meat popsicle
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Heya,

I am not sure exactly which PDFs dirtrider and creeper were discussing, but the information and links in that thread of mine should be adequate to get anyone going on this, who has any business taking apart their forks that is... unfortunately I don't have the dis/assembly notes to get someone all the way thru a seal replacement, but it probably isn't too hairy once you have the resources I linked to in that thread.

If someone does replace their seals, I'd appreciate it if they added their experiences to my thread.
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Old 08-04-2008, 01:54 PM   #9
crazybrit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meat popsicle
Heya,

I am not sure exactly which PDFs dirtrider and creeper were discussing, but the information and links in that thread of mine should be adequate to get anyone going on this, who has any business taking apart their forks that is... unfortunately I don't have the dis/assembly notes to get someone all the way thru a seal replacement, but it probably isn't too hairy once you have the resources I linked to in that thread.

If someone does replace their seals, I'd appreciate it if they added their experiences to my thread.
right, it's gonna involve making drivers out of PVC pipe etc. I sent Creeper a PM. Maybe he'll reply and I can clear things up. If there is a more useful doc out there it would be nice. If I ever do it, I'll try and writeup a full howto.
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:53 PM   #10
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Here is the quick version with no pictures and vague descriptions. But this is how it is done no-fuckin-around style. This is the same for all modern KTM inverted forks back to 2000??,except the new TC forks that are not on any DS bikes yet.
  1. Pull the forks off the bike
  2. flip them upsidown and clamp across the axle clamp/ foot in a vice with some kind of soft jaw
  3. Zap the 19mm hex nut of the Base valve out with an impact wrench
  4. carefully pry the dust seal off and slide out of the way.
  5. Pop the wire retaining ring out with a small flathead
  6. Flip the fork over and drain the oil
  7. Undo the top cap and push the outer leg down
  8. Use a thin 22mm wrench to grab the fork cap jam nut.
  9. Unscrew the top cap and slide the spring out and the cartridge
  10. Now heat the seal area with a propane torch or a hair dryer. Dont get crazy, the idea is to warm it up not melt metal.
  11. Slide hammer the seals out by extending the leg and bang the seals out.
Assembly:
Obviously Clean everything. Paper towels are great. So is WD-40
  1. Cover the end of the chrome fork leg down past the holes with packing tape. Clamp in the vise again with it almost horizontal.
  2. Grease up your dust seals with waterproof grease. Slide them on
  3. Slide the wire clip on
  4. Slide the seal on
  5. Slide the bushing spacer thick washer thing on
  6. Slide lower bushing on
  7. Snap the upper bushing on
  8. Lightly grease the inside edges of the sealing and bushing zone. This helps the bushing and seal go in
  9. Slide the upper leg onto the lower leg.
  10. Use a seal driver or PVC home made contraption to push the bushing in using the washer spacer thing to protect the bushing. Most push in but some need a whack. Always tap it to make sure it is seated.
  11. Do the same thing with the seal. Push it in as far as it will go with the seal driver. Then whack it in. It will take a few good hits to get it in.
  12. Snap the clip in. The seal driver helps pop it in
  13. Push the dust wiper on
You are done........with this part


Next::
  1. Slide the cartridge in make sure it seats in the foot of the fork
  2. Grease the threads of the base valve (important)
  3. Thread the BV in by hand a bit.
  4. Put a long socket over the threads for the fork cap. Put a rag on the floor. Put the fork upsidedown on the rag standing it on the socket. Hold the foot in your hand and push down hard. This holds the cartridge from spinning. Zap the BV in with your impact wrench again. Don't get crazy it is just aluminum. They should be tight but not ape shit tight. You do not want to get it stuck in there. It is a bitch and costs $$ to get it out.
  5. If you have done #4 correctly the BV will get tight and not just spin forever
  6. Flip the fork over to fill with oil. Depending on your application, fill to 130mm from the top with every thing collapsed and the springs out. There is more on this in other threads. 130 will work great for most guys. Use 5wt oil. Thinner sucks, thicker sucks worse.
  7. Slide the spring on. Use your thin 22mm wrench to hold the jam nut again. You might need reach through the spring to get it on then use the spring as a screw to thread the rod up so you can get the cap on.
  8. Screw the cap on and lock it down against the jam nut.
  9. Put your fork cap on.
You are done Bitches!! Slap your fork on and ride!!!
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:51 AM   #11
rowdy_im OP
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thanks you all

Thanks for all the info

I agree the best fixet is to clean and service them regularly,but I find its often to late by time I come back from a long ride,1000kms plus
I will just have too get used too changing them more often and make it a routine check to do...

thanks all

Rowdy
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Old 08-05-2008, 06:40 AM   #12
meat popsicle
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ZD,

now there's a comparison between a pro and a diy - your post vs. my thread - Nice post, can I link it into my thread? Might be nice for some folks who don't need or want (care) about explanations.
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:21 AM   #13
cevquit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdy_im
Thanks for all the info

I agree the best fixet is to clean and service them regularly,but I find its often to late by time I come back from a long ride,1000kms plus
I will just have too get used too changing them more often and make it a routine check to do...

thanks all

Rowdy
You should not have to do anything to your fork seals in a 1000k, the stock seals in my e model went 25,000 hard dirty miles before they started to leak.

My buddy wrk2surf, used to have perpetualy leaky fork seals, till we got him to properly install the front wheel. Since the WP USD forks have a floating axle clamp it is very easy to put a side load on the fork leg when installing the front wheel.

Once we got him on the proper installation proceedure, no more seeping.
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