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Old 08-04-2008, 02:56 PM   #1
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
Alps 2008

Howdy. We are two guys from Slovakia. My mate Marian (user MV) on BMW GS1200Adv and me, Matus on KTM 990 Adv.
After two years of tarmac Alps touring we decided to do a bit offroad this year. We are both beginners in offroad riding, we tried a bit here in Slovakia, but never with the belongings. (btw I put it on the scales and even if I was packing only necessary things, altogether with cases and spare water it was 58kgs...)
Before the ride I switched from Karoos back to Scorpions, as we had 2.000kms fast highway ride ahead of us.
Marian rides on Metzeler Tourances.

I am packing

And Marian too

Day 1
Bratislava (SVK) - Selvino (ITA)
933kms, average speed 77kph, total time 12h 02m

Everything went fine, weather was good, we rode app 140kph GPS, police was OK. We enjoyed few hairpins before Selvino and found booked hotel. Accidentally we met there 6 nice slovak girls :-) so it was very pleasant evening.

Unknown biker waiting for unlimited speeds on austrian roads :)

matus screwed with this post 11-15-2008 at 09:34 AM
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:58 PM   #2
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
Day 2
Selvino (ITA) - Bardonecchia (ITA)

441kms, average 40kph, total time 11h 00m

It was not so optimistic than yesterday. It started to rain just when we stepped out of the hotel. We took the direction Foppolo to go on the Passo Dordona.

With girls. It is us, who will be wet :)

After some U-turns we found the track to the pass. The track was good, wet but hard and not too slippery. We got lost again but the local shepperd showed us the right way.

Shepperds "house"

The track became worse, much worse. On the hard bottom were quite big stones, wet and slippery. Then the steep part of the track - this made the climb very hard with loaden bikes. Fortunately soon we joined the traverse and the track became good again. I changed to second gear and felt like Charlie from LWR :-)

Suddently I could hear Marian in the radio, that he dropped his bike. As I approach I see the beemer, and it doesn't look very well. The bike is off the road, only the boxer holds it on the place from the fall to deep. Now I understand this strange engine set-up :-)

BMW down

You can see where I had to stop, otherwise I wouldn't be able to start again on that surface

On the pic it looks easy, but it took us about 15min to return it on the road. There are some sexy scratches :) and damaged foglight.

The road is pretty rough, big wet stones, not a surprise that we had problems with our busses... I had to push Marian up the hill, breathing his burning clutch. I only hope that comrades from deutsche demokratische republik did not use the asbestos :-)

Hard surface

As we are leaving the "crash site" I am dropping my ktm twice, just to make Marian feel better :))

Soon we are on the top. The pouring rain makes the ride difficult, but at least the surface is nice and we have no problem to get to the bottom of the hill.

It is raining more and more, so we decided to skip the Crocedomini pass. Anyway, the Passo Dordona had about 20kms and it took us 3 hours to pass it. I am not sure if we will be able to finish this holiday :)
We continue through Milano to Bardonecchia.
Today we passed our first alp offroad, short, but very though and exhausting.

Our room :)

matus screwed with this post 11-15-2008 at 09:35 AM
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Old 08-04-2008, 06:16 PM   #3
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You sure are doing the Alps the adventurous way!!

Keep it comin'
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:32 AM   #4
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
Bardonecchia (ITA) – Sommelier (ITA)

189kms, total average 16km/h, total time 11h 31m

We woke up to a sunny morning, but my boots are still wet so I am hairdrying them. It started to rain when we left the hotel, but not too much, so we took direction Col delle Finestre. We climb from south side, which is the offroad part of this Col (the north side is tar)
The surface is great, very easy to ride, I feel so confident, that in last corner I almost smash the wall :)

Beatiful views up there

We descend and turned left to find the Fort Serre Marie

We continue through Col del Assietta, Colle Blegier, Colle Bourget, Colle Basset a col Lauson. All very easy with beautiful views and low traffic.

BMW advertisement :)

We descend to Sestriere and continued left, through a offroad to another ski resort - Claviere

Plan for today is done, but there is still plenty of time and we feel confident, so we head onto Sommelier.

Unfortunately, we could not get up to the top

So at least we dropped our bikes to the snow. It was "great" idea, it took us 30minutes to get them back on the road

We try to get higher next time.

On the way down

We will sleep down there

We slept next to guys with offroad cars from Luxemburg (one of them with Cayenne :-) ) They offered us beer, which was great as we forgot to buy 2 bottles for us :)

We met there also german guy with his wife, he on HP2 and she on Dakar. He did not tell us good news about the Ligurian road and offroad track from Demonte. Ligurian is very soft on some places and there is snowfall on track from Demonte...
Anyway, this day was great!

matus screwed with this post 11-15-2008 at 09:37 AM
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Old 08-05-2008, 10:45 AM   #5
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:41 AM   #6
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
Sommelier (ITA) – Lanslevillard (FRA)
226kms, total average 27km/h, total time 8h 24m

We took our time to get out of the tent, as it was quite cold.
It was beatiful morning.

Next stop - Jafferau. I've seen a lot about this track, but the german guy said yesterday, that the road is closed and the police is there.
He was partly right - the road was closed.

But the police was not there, so we went up anyway :)
The surface was quite difficult for me, very soft.

We got to the workers, which were having their siesta

Down is the toll station

We continued until we got to the rockfall.

I did not have the balls to remove sidecases and continue, so we turned and went back (I regret it now)

We took the road to Lake Mont Cenis, where we raced as always for past years. I booked hotel in Lanslevillard, but at about 4pm nobody was there.
So we went up to Col de Iseran, where is always cold.
Last year there was snowing in July :) (thats my previous bike)

Col de Iseran this year

We also tried the slope :)

I tried to find some nice offroad tracks on GPS, but we always got to the barrier :(

matus screwed with this post 11-15-2008 at 09:38 AM
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:02 AM   #7
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
Lanslevillard (FRA) – Saint Jean de Maurienne (FRA)

235kms, total average 19km/h, total time 12h 20m

We did not have much tracks for this area, so we were just trying and the troubles with barriers continued since morning.

Or the road was destroyed

Afterall we went up to the Val Cenis ski resort.

The we returned to lac Cenis and went around - but from south.

We got to one place behind the Fort on lac Cenis and we saw two bikers on the hill. It looked like they are coming from the nature reservation.
After about 10 minutes the arrived, with engines off. First guy almos hugged us, when he realized that we are not police officers
They were from Luxemburg, riding light offroad bikes.
He showed us some nice roads around

We went with them through interesting road. Guy said, that it is little bit bumpy, but very nice.
Little bit bumpy? I felt like my bike will fall apart! And we got to a point, where were huge stones in the middle of the road with water crossing.
Guy appologized, that he hasn't know about this and they helped us with turning our bikes back. I don't know how we would do this without them.

Little bit bumpy road

We returned through this nice jump, which I enjoyed. Marian later told me, that I hit the jump with left case - I didn't know about it :)

We returned to this road from opposite side - from Italy, but it was very bad. Again very bumpy, so after few kms we went back.

We wanted to stay in St Jean de Maurienne, where I know two hotels, but both were full. In third full hotel was a nice lady and she found nice hotel for us. We dropped the bags and topcase and just with sidecases went to evening ride.
Up the beautiful road of Montpascal and then offroad to Col de la Madeleine. Very very easy track, first time I changed to third gear :)

When we got to the top, we felt like we have to try more. So we went up to the ski resort over the Madeleine. The surface got difficult but with lighter bikes it was OK.

Happy Marian, this was again very nice day.

matus screwed with this post 11-15-2008 at 09:39 AM
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:53 AM   #8
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Excellent .
Stunning scenery and great report on roads
Left over from the 70s
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Old 08-06-2008, 01:40 PM   #10
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Thank You

For the beautiful photographs and the great report.
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Old 08-06-2008, 04:31 PM   #11
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Wink 10

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Old 08-07-2008, 06:10 AM   #12
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
thanks guys. Most of pics took Marian, he is our photographer :)
He did very nice photos, but the photobucket somehow decreased the quality of the pics, don't know why...

I will continue in the evening.
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:07 AM   #13
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Location: Zagreb, Croatia
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Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.
---Mark Twain---

Tunisia ride report

Ukraine, Russia and Romania

Croatian Backroads
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:11 AM   #14
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Thumb Nice

Thanks guys. Even though pic quality isn't the best I can tell it's ridiculous beautiful. Alps has always been my dream. Looking forward to the rest. What device are you using to communicate with eachother, would you recommend?
No regrets when I'm 80

R12GS wasted 2yrs dreamin about it.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:18 AM   #15
matus OP
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: SK
Oddometer: 70
we use the cobras
I have this head set:

Marian has some super-duper-mega device, and he is connected via BT to his garmin, can listen mp3 music, do phone calls etc :)
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