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Old 08-18-2008, 07:08 PM   #1
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airheads and water crossings.

With my D/S thumper, I can pretty much go as deep as the airbox or exhaust pipe. That started me wondering about airheads which seem to have lots of "holes" considerably lower. Can I dunk my G/S or will I regret it? How deep is deep?
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:52 PM   #2
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I've had my R75/6 up past my ankles.

My dad claims to have had his R75/5 up to the tank(!), but his memory might be a bit fuzzy.
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:49 PM   #3
bgoodsoil
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I've been wondering the same thing. The electrics are high up and the breather for the final drive can have a snorkel fitted but I have slots in the my front cover, I'm assuming to allow some air out of the alternator for cooling? There's the speedo cable, and the hole on the left side where you can see the fly wheel. Can those be plugged safely? The place I usually go offroading at has two creeks I have to cross or my riding area is very limited. I remember having water almost to my knees on my KLR when crossing them, I'd hate to have to avoid things like that on the G/S.
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:53 PM   #4
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If plug cables are healthy the engine will run as long as the airintake is above water.

The electronics behind the front cover seems to work fine, but the gen-light often starts to flicker when the alternator gets to wet (no worries).

I think the clutch is the worst problem, the clutch housing gets full of water and if you use the clutch (esp going uphill) it might start to slip.

It might be smart to find another way to vent the gearbox and final drive,
but itís not strictly necessary if you check/change the oil pretty soon.
When you drive in salt water you should clean your bike asap, corrosion starts fast (cables, bearings, leverage, electronics ++)



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Old 08-20-2008, 10:11 AM   #5
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I destroyed the output shaft on my '83 R65 with injudicious use of a pressure washer. I figured I knew well enough what to avoid, bearings, electrical, instruments, etc. I didn't know enough about boxers tho. I got too much spray up under the engine and into to clutch and splines and stripped the lube out of the spline. About 5k later I was left stranded on the road. It was an expensive repair and now I know much better. New bikes must have fixed this weak spot, but I'd be wary of dunking this part of the bike on any model like mine.
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Old 08-20-2008, 10:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBaba

What fairing is that? And I might as well ask what bike (G/S or GS)?
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Old 08-20-2008, 10:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
I destroyed the output shaft on my '83 R65 with injudicious use of a pressure washer. I figured I knew well enough what to avoid, bearings, electrical, instruments, etc. I didn't know enough about boxers tho. I got too much spray up under the engine and into to clutch and splines and stripped the lube out of the spline. About 5k later I was left stranded on the road. It was an expensive repair and now I know much better. New bikes must have fixed this weak spot, but I'd be wary of dunking this part of the bike on any model like mine.
My G/S which lead to this question is essentially the same as your 83 as far as "achile's heels" goes.

Did you get that much water in the speedo boot/hole? Or where? I.e. what do you mean "under the engine"?
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:10 PM   #8
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i'm having a really hard time figuring out how you got a pressure washer to ruin your output shaft. care to elaborate?


Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
I destroyed the output shaft on my '83 R65 with injudicious use of a pressure washer. I figured I knew well enough what to avoid, bearings, electrical, instruments, etc. I didn't know enough about boxers tho. I got too much spray up under the engine and into to clutch and splines and stripped the lube out of the spline. About 5k later I was left stranded on the road. It was an expensive repair and now I know much better. New bikes must have fixed this weak spot, but I'd be wary of dunking this part of the bike on any model like mine.
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:12 PM   #9
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Pressure washers are for driveways, bilges, decks, and stucco.

They really do push water where it shouldn't be, the clutch is an odd one, I don't think I could get significant water to strip the lube out of there.
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Old 08-20-2008, 04:27 PM   #10
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care to elaborate?[/QUOTE]
no boot?
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Old 08-20-2008, 04:54 PM   #11
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A problem area is the carby breathing/drain hole .. it is on the bottom of the float bowel.. if that is block by water long enough (say 50 - 100 metres) than it drags water into the float bowel and the bike trys to run on water rather than petrol. HPN/Tortech (sp?) offer a solution .. pricy but if you want to run submerged ...

Water into the final drive and gear box won't stop the bike running .. you can later drain off the water .. let it settle and than drain untill oil starts to come out.

As noted above - water on the clutch can be a problem .. as it is for 4WDs (manuals). Don't use the clutch while submerged and you won't have a problem. Use it once and it should not do too much harm, the more you use it the more problem (slipping) you will have.

Water into the alternator/ignition bean can area is not a problem. Nor should it be a problem with eht electics - they should be sealed ...
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Old 08-20-2008, 05:39 PM   #12
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on my toaster i had it shut down due to water under the charging cover in the front. i pulled it off, water rushed out and then it started and was on my way.

imo: airheads don't like water.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmeslack
What fairing is that? And I might as well ask what bike (G/S or GS)?
Itís originally a GS Basic (last airhead build in Europe) which was converted to a Kalahari (upper pic). Itís now converted to a HPN Rallyesport (lower pic).

The fairing fits both a standard GS and G/S with a HPN-tank.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
A problem area is the carby breathing/drain hole .. it is on the bottom of the float bowel.. if that is block by water long enough (say 50 - 100 metres) than it drags water into the float bowel and the bike trys to run on water rather than petrol. HPN/Tortech (sp?) offer a solution .. pricy but if you want to run submerged ...
Itís 13.50Ä from HPN, but I guess you can make it yourself

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
As noted above - water on the clutch can be a problem .. as it is for 4WDs (manuals). Don't use the clutch while submerged and you won't have a problem. Use it once and it should not do too much harm, the more you use it the more problem (slipping) you will have.
I havenít tried it but I guess a ceramic clutch like this will work better.
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Old 08-21-2008, 09:54 AM   #15
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yeah, i dont use one on my bike, but i was trying to figure out how he could get the lube off the clutch splines with one. i'm guessing that's a WAG for an explaination on why his splines failed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
Pressure washers are for driveways, bilges, decks, and stucco.

They really do push water where it shouldn't be, the clutch is an odd one, I don't think I could get significant water to strip the lube out of there.
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