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Old 01-31-2015, 11:27 PM   #1
BarryT OP
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Joined: Jul 2009
Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 670
My 1982 R100 Adventure or? (Finally with a video!)

We got in late and I was only able to do limited tinkering with my new airhead. It was quite the adventure picking this thing up. I'm going to post pictures and a write up of the trip to get it and my adventure trying to get it back on the road.

What I know as of tonight:

Strong spark on both sides
Carbs were spotless inside
Cranks over well
The bike looks very clean internally
I tossed the stupid fairing in the corner of the garage
The fairing install was clean and taking it back to stock is/will be easy.
Tons and I mean tons of surface corrosion. None of it is very deal but it is everywhere. I need to soda blast and paint nearly everything.
Various seals are leaking from sitting for a decade.

I'm pretty good at fixing things, but have never tackled this level of refinishing.
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BarryT screwed with this post 02-06-2015 at 08:11 AM
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:48 PM   #2
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 670
Again no pictures..... My camera is in the wifes car.


I got it running, but there are a couple issues. It runs on only one cylinder at idle. If rev'd up the other cylinder fires up, but its sputtering and backfiring. The timing is spot on and each cylinder shows a strong spark I haven't synch'd the carbs yet and the carb that is sputtering has no float bowl gasket (PO). I am going to order a rebuild kit and new plugs. I have the feeling it is something fairly simple. It does run well on that one cylinder though ;).


Thanks,
Barry
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Old 02-02-2015, 03:58 AM   #3
Kt-88
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How's the choke synch?
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Old 02-02-2015, 09:15 AM   #4
Rapid Dog
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clean'em

Didn't you say the bike was sitting several years.
Mine did the same one cylinder sputter even after new plugs/wires and valeve set.
...until I actually cleaned the carbs and replaced the orings and gaskets
I'm betting gunk is a big part.
Order the kit from MaxBMW or at least all the o-rings and gaskets.

Note that the idle jet o-rings ( 13 11 1 254 735 GASKET RING) on Max says 2 when you need actually 4 as shown in the pic, two idle jet and two mixture screw.

I washed mine out repeatedly with seafoam and parts cleaner, lots of compressed air, then put them in parts cleaner just up to the butterfly arm so as not to ruin the butterfy o-ring.
Then wash well/dry with air, them re-assmble.

Sputter fixed, idles like a new bike....

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Old 02-02-2015, 09:10 PM   #5
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 670
I think the carbs just need a rebuild as well. One carb I can't get apart because the screw on the diaphragm seems to be seized and now the phillips part is rounded out. Its on the carb that seems to be working though. The other carb like I stated above is missing the float bowl gasket (PO) If I put my hand over the intake tube for that carb in the air box the engine starts to run very well. When I remove my hand allowing for normal airflow it backfires sputters and that side stops firing at idle. Maybe its an issue with the diaphragm? Either way I ordered two rebuild kits including diaphragms, new plug wires, new plugs and a new diode board for my other issue.

Thanks,
Barry
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:31 PM   #6
Kt-88
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Sounds like classic case of plugged pilot.
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Old 02-03-2015, 07:08 AM   #7
Rapid Dog
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On getting that screw out, I had the same problem on my RS.
The local auto parts store recommended a reverse drillbit.
Worked great!

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Old 02-04-2015, 10:40 PM   #8
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 670
Rapid,

Thank you for the tip. It worked (mostly) I picked up a set of left hand drill bits from HF and attempted to do what you did... no dice, but there was a silver lining. I bored deep enough into the screw that one of those big fat phillip's head bit actually fit in there pretty nicely. I popped it into my driver and out came the screw.

My carb rebuild kits, thunderchild diode board and NGK plug wires also showed up in the mail today. In my new garage the lighting is terrible so doing things like rebuilding a set of carbs at night is close to impossible. I did manage to run the new spake plug wires and install the new(used) diode board.

I didn't feel like paying $20 plus shipping for solid mounts, so I went to Lowe's and fashioned a "one of" set of solid mounts. They ended up working out really well.

Tomorrow I am going to try to get the carbs rebuilt and hopefully the my new plugs will show up so I can really see how this thing runs.

Thanks,
Barry
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Old 02-05-2015, 06:59 AM   #9
Rapid Dog
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....don't forget to change the oil first. Dump out that old sludge and replace it with something clean.
I've been using Rotella 4T which is pretty inexpensive.
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Old 02-05-2015, 12:03 PM   #10
BarryT OP
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My oil filter kit should be showing up tomorrow.
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:05 PM   #11
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
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ITS ALIVE!

I was able to get the carbs cleaned out and re-sealed just before I ran out of light (base housing garage has a one bulb light for a 2 car garage). I did a quick visual syncing by flashlight before giving it a try.

First try: Cranked over endlessly and did not start. I swished the gas tank around and came to the conclusion that I must be out of fuel.

Second try: After going to the gas station and grabbing 2 gallons of gas I tried again...... No dice. Just cranked. I still didn't see fuel in the filters... I took my dads advice and tossed the universal filters that were on the bike.

Third try: Still cranking...... I pulled the plugs and checked the spark. It was good on both sides. I finally resorted to spraying starting fluid into the intake tubes.

Fourth try: Started!!!! But wanted to die almost immediately. I pinned the throttle wide open and it slowly came to life. After a second I let off the throttle and it sat there idling fairly smoothly at about 2.5k RPM. I lowered each of the carbs idle screws one by time evenly until I was at about 1,100 RPM. I had the mixture screws 1 turn out.

It idled fairly well and only had a few pops here and there. Its been in a garage for 10 years so I was pretty pleased. I took it out for an unregistered, no helmet, no shoes (sandles), no tire pressure test drive. It shifted more smoothly than I remember my R75/7 ever did and it pulled to about 3.5k RPM pretty good. I was doing this in base housing sooooooo I kept it pretty slow and very brief. I think after I do an official synch on the carbs and adjust the valves (I know I should of done those first) I'll be in pretty good mechanical shape.

On a side note my oil pressure sending switched is leaking oil pretty damn fast. The leak isn't coming from the base, but near where the wire connects. I guess I'll see if I can ebay up that part really quick.

I'm having an out patient surgery tomorrow (very small deal) but I don't think I will be capable of doing to much more for a few days.

-barry
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:22 PM   #12
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 670
I bought rebuild kits for 32mm Bings..... Mine definitely has 40mm bings, I don't know how I missed that, but luckily all the o-rings are the same sizes. I just can;t use the diaphragms. For a 1982 R100 are the 40mm bings stock?
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:42 PM   #13
Kt-88
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Congrats, first. That's a great moment. Second, hope the surgery goes well. Third, if you have a plug in your garage, Costco had some LED shop lights for like $28 that are damn near daylight.
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Old 02-05-2015, 10:52 PM   #14
BarryT OP
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Location: Edwards AFB California (Rosamond CA)
Oddometer: 670
The house I owned before moving on base had amazing lights. I installed them all my self. On base I can't install anything. Its very annoying.
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Old 02-06-2015, 02:37 AM   #15
chasbmw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryT View Post
I bought rebuild kits for 32mm Bings..... Mine definitely has 40mm bings, I don't know how I missed that, but luckily all the o-rings are the same sizes. I just can;t use the diaphragms. For a 1982 R100 are the 40mm bings stock?
I would have thought that for a R100, 32 bings were stock, 40s were reserved for the "sports" RS, S and RT models, but your bike is over 30 years old and who knows what has happened in that time.

If you put the engine no into Realoem, you should find out what your bike was when it left the factory.
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