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Old 09-16-2013, 08:34 PM   #1
CaptainCrunch OP
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Delicious Chocolate Milk

Just drained a bunch of Nestle Chocolate Quik from my trans - PO let it sit this last winter with a probably leaky speedo plug, maybe 10 ride miles since then. Trans plug had 2-3 metal flakes on the magnet and god only knows when last changed. My plan is to ride around maybe another 10-15 miles on this fresh 80w-90w, then drain 'n' change again and inspect the plug for more metal.

This seem solid?

Couple of "yea" or "nay" votes, then this can slide off the front page into oblivion.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:30 PM   #2
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I would do pretty much the same thing. But I would put a few more miles on the oil before draining it. Maybe 1-200 miles. Then flush it out and start fresh. Just check the drained fluid for flakes as well as the drain plug.

You are probably fine.

I usually replace the fluid in tranny and rear end every winter anyway. But I do pretty high mileage every year. Usually 25-30K. Sometimes more.
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Old 09-16-2013, 11:07 PM   #3
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Yes. Needs to go through a few heat cycles. I'd change it as you suggested. Oil is cheap. Rebuilding gearboxes aint.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:51 AM   #4
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How large and what shape were the metal flakes that you found on the magnet? What material? (magnetic means steel)

The water usually gets in through the speedo boot by the battery grounding bolt. If boot is cracked looking it needs changing.

This transmissions are pretty clunky when working right but there are symptoms that are not normal. Any thing like falling out of gear is bad or noise?

Yes to putting a couple hundred on it, then changing again. You can use the cheap trans gear oil as long as it is 80W-90 rated GL-5. Do not use GL-4 and do not use other weights.

It would be nice if the first post contained the info about what year/model bike this is and how many miles.
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disston screwed with this post 09-17-2013 at 07:51 AM
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:17 AM   #5
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Yea. I call that the sacrificial oil. I always run it through the trans and engine case on a new (i.e. crappy old) bike, run up 100-200 miles or so, drain it, and see what story it tells. Chocolate milk might mean rusty gearbox, keep an eye on it for sure.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:03 AM   #6
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It's an R75/6 w/approx. 50k with an R100S engine swap w/approx. 25k. Unknown if the trans came with the bike, the new engine, or from elsewhere. The boot isn't obviously cracked, but something's not watertight and it's the most logical place for water to get in so I'm replacing it.

Flakes were ragged slivers largest being around 1/16", very little to no ultra-fine metallic sludge on magnet. Trans was clunky but like everyone jokes, they're all clunky. It's less clunky with the new fluid even on a 1 mile round-the-block jaunt, and the phantom false neutral I wasn't sure I was feeling seems to have gone away. More miles will tell the tale on that.

"Sacrificial oil" is pretty much how I think of it. And yeah, it's cheap so why not?
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:21 AM   #7
Biebs
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Thumb Marvel Mystery Oil

Marvel Mystery Oil - in trans will help clean up any crap - run 30 miles and then drain it!!

Mixed with the correct trans fluid - maybe 1/2 qt of MMO
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Old 09-17-2013, 11:55 AM   #8
disston
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Sounds like a nice bike. Time and a few miles will tell.
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:01 PM   #9
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I would flush it out with some kerosene first. Then go with your oil change plan.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biebs View Post
Marvel Mystery Oil - in trans will help clean up any crap - run 30 miles and then drain it!!

Mixed with the correct trans fluid - maybe 1/2 qt of MMO
Quote:
Originally Posted by flying_finn View Post
I would flush it out with some kerosene first. Then go with your oil change plan.
I'll be honest, these sound a little frightening.

My pops instilled in me a deep distrust of everything he classified as "Snake Oil", which was EVERYTHING. He's a 5wt & kerosene, time, heat, and Big Fuckin' Hammer kinda guy. Suspicious even of WD40.

And regarding a kerosene flush, how exactly do you do that? Do you actually put it in gear and go at all, or just slosh around as much as possible? How do you flush out the kerosene and ensure it's not dangerously thinning the tranny fluid?

Of course, ideally I'd crack it open, inspect, parts wash, give every gear a tender little kiss and fully rebuild it. While that may happen in the future, I certainly would like to finish out riding season before teardown madness overtakes me.

And yeah, I think it's a pretty nice bike. Kind of cool to me that it's the earlier styling with the later big hot-rod motor in it. More brakes probably wouldn't hurt, though.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:20 PM   #11
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I have heard of lots of people that swear by Marvel Mystery snake Oil. Never could find any real results as to it actually doing anything useful.

I know of a few people that have done it in both Tranny and engine. Drove for about 100 miles then drained it all. All that did was totally clean out the insides, which helped tremendously during the total rebuild a few days later.

The only time I would ever put Kerosene in any tranny would be to clean it out after taking it apart. Then cleaning it thoroughly afterwards.

Stick with fluching out the oil with new oil after 1-200 miles. Use a clean pan to drain into and check the old oil very carefully. It will tell you a story.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:22 PM   #12
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I really like your ADV name in relation to the trans....

Large slivers are usually associated with the disintegrating kick starter gears, does it have one ? If so, don't use it and the slivers will stop.

As far as water in the box , I've lately opened three boxes that had water damage. It seems to really like the Helical gears, more than the others. I have no idea how long the box will last with the rust pitting on the gear face but time will tell.
Make sure that you get a new speedo cable boot and pack it with grease before you slip it into place. I've even added a zip tie in the past to make it even tighter yet.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:39 PM   #13
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Pissed Snake Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
I really like your ADV name in relation to the trans....

Large slivers are usually associated with the disintegrating kick starter gears, does it have one ? If so, don't use it and the slivers will stop.

Good advice on the kickstarter - As far as snake oil ect I use WD40 as a cleaner it is not a good lubricant but does displace water as named.


I also have used diesel fuel in Jap bike combined trans/ engine sump to clean up old bike no used for years would start bike and idle for 5 to 10 minutes with diesel in crankcase. ATF is another option all kinds of snake oil out there ATF / Kroil
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:26 PM   #14
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Nope, not a kickstart trans. I know the kicker 5 speeds are generally thought of as turds anyway, which is a shame since it's well-documented that having a kickstart on your bike actually grows a third testicle.

My ability to grow such a splendid mustache can be traced directly to kickstarting my dads '79 XS650 as a lad of 17.

And the speedo boot on the tranny gets a nice big bukkake of silicone sealant for good luck, too.
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Old 09-17-2013, 10:51 PM   #15
disston
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It is only the 1974 5 speed with a kick starter that is supposedly too bad. If you have one of the later GS or added kick starter transmissions they shouldn't be such a baddy. Several problems with the 1974 year transmission. The kick starter is only one of them.

As bad a reputation as these transmissions have there are many of them on the road and even with working kick staters.
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