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Old 08-21-2008, 11:00 AM   #16
lkchris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by postaldave
on my toaster i had it shut down due to water under the charging cover in the front. i pulled it off, water rushed out and then it started and was on my way.

imo: airheads don't like water.
Not really realistic to compare an old points ignition bike to the newer ones with electronic ignition. This includes all G/S and GS, of course.
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:24 AM   #17
bikerlt
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Do I have a real oddity here? I just went out to the garage again to make sure I wasn't imagining this. My bike is an '83 R65. At the bottom of the transmission housing where it meets the engine case is a gap of approx 2x16cm. It is open to the clutch. I assumed that is must be some design for ventilation? I don't know. It is placed where it would not be possible to take water unless the bike was submerged. When I got my bike it was expecially dirty and black dusty here and I sprayed it well with a pressure washer. Some time later my output splines disintegrated on me and I (thought anyway) realized that the dust must have been from the clutch and I'd sprayed up into it without realizing the clutch was exposed.

I just walked out to the garage again and put the end of a fat zip-tie up into it. Sure enough, I can slip the tie all the way in and it angles up toward the clutch. Maybe I have a very odd design here. Anybody else with an early 80's R65 can check this out? I guess I could post a pic if needed.
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Old 08-26-2008, 11:15 AM   #18
AliBaba
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Itís like that on all airheads, thatís how the water enters the clutch-housing when you cross rivers. Itís also how it gets out.

I think the damage you describe might be possible.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:36 AM   #19
bikerlt
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I think the 'thou shalt not' approach to pressure washing is a bit much. My example should encourage anyone to know their machine better, not to swear of pressure washing. Heck, any motorcycle is quite intentionally designed to tolerate some water. Highway speeds in rain? And I'm not talking 4.0gpm @4000psi -- if you're washing your motorcycle with a tool that can actually strip paint off of the tank, then you're probably beyond reasoning with anyway. DIY (coin) car washes are nowhere near that (and I hope that's what we're all talking about here).

It comes down to balancing needs. If my bike is just laden with crap from a sloppy dirt road I don't think twice about checking into a DIY car wash along the way to get rid of caked abrasive grit. I'm confident enough to know what to avoid. Instruments, carbs, bearings, etc. What did the clutch splines in was an anomaly (an expensive one), but it was a result of my lack of knowledge. I should have known the engine better before I applied water in a way that the designers couldn't anticipate. And the pressure was certainly enough to reach the splines when directed at the engine from behind. If AliBaba is correct, that all airheads are like my own in this regard, go take a look up under your transmission next chance you get.

bikerlt screwed with this post 08-27-2008 at 07:51 AM
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:44 AM   #20
bmwblake
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i know the design of the engine and i own a pressure washer, though it's never been used on the bike.
i guess in order to get water in there you'd have to lay on the ground and shoot water up in that direction, or you have a pressure washer with a shorter wand than mine.

i have a mental image of me standing on my head trying to accomplish it, that's all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt
I think the 'thou shalt not' approach to pressure washing is a bit much. My example should encourage anyone to know their machine better, not to swear of pressure washing. Heck, any motorcycle is quite intentionally designed to tolerate some water. Highway speeds in rain? And I'm not talking 4.0gpm @4000psi. Car washes are nowhere near that.

It comes down to balancing needs. If my bike is just laden with crap from a sloppy dirt road I don't think twice about checking into a 'misty spray' DIY car wash along the way to get rid of caked abrasive grit. I'm confident enough to know what to avoid. Instruments, carbs, bearings, etc. What did the clutch splines in was an anomaly (an expensive one), but it was a result of my lack of knowledge. I should have known the engine better before I applied water in a way that the designers couldn't anticipate. And the pressure was certainly enough to reach the splines when directed at the engine from behind. If AliBaba is correct, that all airheads are like my own in this regard, go take a look up under your boxer next chance you get.
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:27 PM   #21
Lornce
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Click on the thread in my sig line detailing the rebuild my GSPD required after floundering in a suprisingly deep mud hole.

Viewer discretion is advised.

Lornce screwed with this post 08-27-2008 at 07:33 PM
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:26 PM   #22
Mugwest
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my 81 G/S has always swum nicely-- the depth limit has always been the intake snorkel tubes under the tank, which is something like 2' or so vertical depth. Whenever in doubt at a big puddle, a walk-through or use of a sounding-stick has told me go/no-go.

the ign and alternator stuff does waffle a little after a deep swim, but it heats off after a minute or so. i change oils as a matter of course after such rides, and rarely have i found any water present. Cheap insurance is my take

Things that help: silicone grease packed in the spark plug connectors, and a fresh/new speedo-cable boot packed w/ same sillycone grease. That last item has kept water out of the tranny very well-- but i still change tranny and FD oils after extended swimming rides. FWIW: on an old, ratty speedo cable boot i used to get much more water in the tranny, even after a simple road ride in a downpour. A new boot pretty much eliminates that ingress

Come on in-- the water's fine

best,

MRP

edit: per Frank's warning about the bowl vents: i have the indy floats and bowls, which don't have the bowl vent tubes. That may well make a difference in keeping the carbs water-tight as i've experienced
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:17 AM   #23
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What are the "indy" floats and bowls?
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:17 PM   #24
Mugwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmeslack
What are the "indy" floats and bowls?
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html

see bottom of page. Independent floats in a special bowl vs the 2 fixed floats as stock. Indies were Bing's 'solution' to dripping, off-mixture in lean angles, better gas mileage, healthy babies, no more dandruff, etc etc. The wisemen have always been lukewarm on their effectiveness. The kit already came on the G/S when i bought it-- most likely i'd not do such a mod on my own nickel. They do seem to work well though-- not as fussy as the stock float setup i had on the RS a lifetime ago...
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:36 PM   #25
Gimmeslack OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugwest
http://www.bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html

see bottom of page. Independent floats in a special bowl vs the 2 fixed floats as stock. Indies were Bing's 'solution' to dripping, off-mixture in lean angles, better gas mileage, healthy babies, no more dandruff, etc etc. The wisemen have always been lukewarm on their effectiveness. The kit already came on the G/S when i bought it-- most likely i'd not do such a mod on my own nickel. They do seem to work well though-- not as fussy as the stock float setup i had on the RS a lifetime ago...
Funny, I just got my Bing booklet in the mail today and was looking at them.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:11 PM   #26
Prutser
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My bike has a nippon starter that dosn't like swimming. The noise is just like a really dry valeo.

Some helpfull info for my bike in this thread.

Hope to find more high air intake pics.
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Old 08-16-2012, 04:29 PM   #27
hardwaregrrl
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Hey Mods...can we move this to airheads? thx
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:14 PM   #28
Prutser
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Pre-filters.

Are there people using pre-filters on the original gs/st air intake ?

If there are ? Could someone share their experience or show some photo's
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:19 AM   #29
Phreaky Phil
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Water in the clutch makes things tricky, in most deep river crossings you are slipping the clutch with some revs on to make sure it doesn't stall, but keep the speed low. Water gets in between the plates and you let the clutch out and you have no drive, then it must force the water out and your off. One of the clutch plates with 4 separate pucs may help with this. The forward facing snorkels restrict the depth of water you can ride through. You have to be careful you don't create a bow wave over the engine as it will go straight down the snorkels. An airhead should be easy to due drown though, pop off the float bowls to drain the carbs, drain the air box and pull the spark plugs. Even better with dual plugs, take the bottom ones out !
A lot easier than a 1200 adventure. I was with some guys on a trip to Macetown, near Queenstown in New Zealand. It involves 26 river crossings each way. The water level was a bit high and one of the guys drowned his 1200 GS. Difficult to remove the plugs. No air box drain. A PITA. ! !
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Old 10-23-2012, 10:17 AM   #30
DiabloADV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikerlt View Post
... Some time later my output splines disintegrated on me and ...
Just because one thing follows another doesn't mean there is causation. Roosters crow, then the sun comes up...

As you noted, you're not the original owner and who knows if the splines were dry the day you got it...that's among the first maintenance items one should do when buying a used airhead.
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