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Old 02-27-2013, 01:27 PM   #91
Prutser
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Some Pics..

For people that would like to know more about what I did behind the plates:

I took off the original plastic plates. Behind them there are no holes. But you can see the shape of the vent hole in the casting. I used an 3mm bolt to seal the original holes.



I drilled a hole into the original vent hole. The screwdriver shows where the original vent hole leads to.








First I tried it with old choke houses.

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Old 02-27-2013, 09:34 PM   #92
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Very cool. "You aint half a clever bugger"
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:11 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil View Post
Very cool. "You aint half a clever bugger"
Stil a lot more things to fix before I can go as deep as those G650Xc's Phil !!!
I hope that on my next trip I don't have to push my bike through those deep rivers anymore

Next is the air filter in the fuel tank project
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:09 PM   #94
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Good work - keep those G bikes honest!

How did you seal the other vent by the fuel line? Same way?
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:31 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by igormortis View Post
Good work - keep those G bikes honest!

How did you seal the other vent by the fuel line? Same way?
I did put a 4mm bolt in that one from inside the float chamber than tested my bike with one plugged breather for a month and didn't seam to cause problems.
But by plugging one of the two holes I wanted to make sure the breather hose I used was not to thin.(its 6mm)
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Old 02-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
Stil a lot more things to fix before I can go as deep as those G650Xc's Phil !!!
I hope that on my next trip I don't have to push my bike through those deep rivers anymore

Next is the air filter in the fuel tank project
As they say,"cross one bridge at a time"
Hell if they had bridges you wouldnt be doing all this work
Do you think you will put the filter in/above the tank or leave the filter as is and run a breather through the tank. If you remove / alter the snorkles does it have an effect on the jetting / carburation ?
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:33 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Can we not just seal around the base where the horns meet the top of the airbox and run flexible tubing off the ends of the horns and up to a filter near the steering neck?
Time for a bump,

After getting wet a lot in Laos on my XR250 I've been thinking a bit about this airhead water crossing issue.
I am liking a simple approach- how about like Jenna describes, just some flexible tubes that come off the airhorns, a two into one, and then run the tube up as high and safe as you can get it.
but here is the catch- so as to not make this all too complicated in trying to get it right and not negatively alter engine performance all that much (which I am assuming, a great big long hose off the front of the airbox or most other such significant alterations is going to do), just make this a temporary thing. The rubber tubes are in place, but not actually on the airhorns. You come to a deep water crossing, you stop, and you just slip and secure the well fitted tubes over your horns, pull the wrag or cap out of the top end of the snorkel, and then off you go. Keep your airbox and filter where they are and keep your engine running at its best for most of the time.
Engine might run a bit odd through the snorkle- hopefully well enough to tractor through most rivers, one might hope it runs well enough that if you wanted to leave it on for a while you could (if say you knew you had a bunch of water crossings to do in a short time and didn't want to take on and off the snorkle).

It does seem more of a hassle having to do this before a water crossing, but it need only be for the deep ones, and speaking for myself, for deep water crossings I am likely to stop and check it out anyway, preferably walking it to check or even better, letting some other bike go first and locate the spots to avoid

I do wonder how Paul Rooney's race bike as pictured actually ran like that- bearing in mind that the snorkle and airfilter seem to have been removed again and are not used now.
I do like to see the design efforts to make a good permanent snorkel that doesn't negatively effect engine performance, but frankly although fabrication would be OK with me the air box tuning stuff is way beyond me.


And also after watching Bas do all that great work waterproofing the Bings, I need to start thinking about my VM34 mikunis.

Airhead Wrangler (who has the same carbs as me) have you thought much about this yet?
There is the obvious two pink tubes, overflow and breather? Not sure what needs to be done with one or both of them. Another less obvious point is where the throttle cable enters the top of the carb- and this is not just for water crossings- the throttle cable end needs to be airtight within the fitting, put a little vacuum in the carb and air sucks straight through there.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:57 PM   #98
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Airhead Wrangler... have you thought much about this yet?
Nope, but I should. It's just not at the top of my list as I've only had an airhead deep enough to be of any concern few enough times that I could count them on my hands.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:19 PM   #99
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Yeah, drowning the airbox while upright isn't highest on my list of potential problems, but I'd like to be able to look at the Mikunis under water and not worry.
For the small sample size of most of the water I've encountered here on my bike, when it starts towards airbox height it has usually been flood type waters, where it is the fast flow not the depth that is the show stopper.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:01 PM   #100
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I figure if we go fast enough, the bow wave created should (in theory) keep that dirty water out of our airbox.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:07 PM   #101
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Nice work with the carbs Prutser. I would have made one of the cover plates name "Crosby" - thus having Bing Crosby ...

It is not just the depth of water that is the problem for the carbys - but also the length - a short deep crossing is OK.. longer than say 4 meters is a problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prutser View Post
The gearbox and finaldrive vents I made for my R80ST don't solve the problems I had with the oil getting milky.
Each time I took the hoses off water came dripping out.
The warm air coming out of the FD or gearbox condensates in the hoses and runs back into the fd or gearbox.

Because of the deep river crossings I sometimes have to do I still like to keep the hoses.
I made some double hoses with one side connected to the air intake.
Now there is some constant airflow through the breather hoses and I hope this will take away the condensation.
Did this work? Somehow I think as the low point for the gearbox breather is the gearbox you will still have the problem. If you had a 'Tee' piece with the upper 'Tee' being the air breather and the lower 'Tee' being the drain for the water - seal the bottom of this with enough volume for a fair bit of condensation.

The final drive is a bit harder to arrange a water trap for... as it mounts pointed down.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:37 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warin View Post
Nice work with the carbs Prutser. I would have made one of the cover plates name "Crosby" - thus having Bing Crosby ...

It is not just the depth of water that is the problem for the carbys - but also the length - a short deep crossing is OK.. longer than say 4 meters is a problem.



Did this work? Somehow I think as the low point for the gearbox breather is the gearbox you will still have the problem. If you had a 'Tee' piece with the upper 'Tee' being the air breather and the lower 'Tee' being the drain for the water - seal the bottom of this with enough volume for a fair bit of condensation.

The final drive is a bit harder to arrange a water trap for... as it mounts pointed down.
It does work. Although I haven't been riding that much the last few months. I will give an update when I have been riding the bike a bit longer.

Ontic did you check how much space there really is to put a good snorkle on the intake ? There is almost no room to put them. I am looking for a permanent fix for my bike. Just can't find a second ST tank to start drilling tubes through yet.
In the ride report you can see how many crossings we did. Those G650's will not wait 40 times a day for me to mounth the snorkles

When I have the second tank I will start but they are hard to find out here.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:46 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Time for a bump,

After getting wet a lot in Laos on my XR250 I've been thinking a bit about this airhead water crossing issue.
I am liking a simple approach- how about like Jenna describes, just some flexible tubes that come off the airhorns, a two into one, and then run the tube up as high and safe as you can get it.
but here is the catch- so as to not make this all too complicated in trying to get it right and not negatively alter engine performance all that much (which I am assuming, a great big long hose off the front of the airbox or most other such significant alterations is going to do), just make this a temporary thing. The rubber tubes are in place, but not actually on the airhorns. You come to a deep water crossing, you stop, and you just slip and secure the well fitted tubes over your horns, pull the wrag or cap out of the top end of the snorkel, and then off you go. Keep your airbox and filter where they are and keep your engine running at its best for most of the time.
Engine might run a bit odd through the snorkle- hopefully well enough to tractor through most rivers, one might hope it runs well enough that if you wanted to leave it on for a while you could (if say you knew you had a bunch of water crossings to do in a short time and didn't want to take on and off the snorkle).

It does seem more of a hassle having to do this before a water crossing, but it need only be for the deep ones, and speaking for myself, for deep water crossings I am likely to stop and check it out anyway, preferably walking it to check or even better, letting some other bike go first and locate the spots to avoid

I do wonder how Paul Rooney's race bike as pictured actually ran like that- bearing in mind that the snorkle and airfilter seem to have been removed again and are not used now.
I do like to see the design efforts to make a good permanent snorkel that doesn't negatively effect engine performance, but frankly although fabrication would be OK with me the air box tuning stuff is way beyond me.


And also after watching Bas do all that great work waterproofing the Bings, I need to start thinking about my VM34 mikunis.

Airhead Wrangler (who has the same carbs as me) have you thought much about this yet?
There is the obvious two pink tubes, overflow and breather? Not sure what needs to be done with one or both of them. Another less obvious point is where the throttle cable enters the top of the carb- and this is not just for water crossings- the throttle cable end needs to be airtight within the fitting, put a little vacuum in the carb and air sucks straight through there.
You could do the airhorns by having both systems at once. Standard snorkels out the front, High flex pipes out the back. Take the rags out of one and stuff them in the other and go.
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:42 PM   #104
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The bottom of this air filter is level with the horns. Using hose like this, it doesn't seem hard to move the intake anywhere you want it.



Maybe you could run the hoses up the side of a standard tank? I think the HPN tank would block that. Or up into the seat? It looks like Rooney ran his in the space under the electrics and turned up in front of the tank. It may be the reason why he chose that particular tank. That seems like the best way to get height even though you have to run 3' of hose. Hmmm......
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Old 04-04-2013, 12:46 AM   #105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
I figure if we go fast enough, the bow wave created should (in theory) keep that dirty water out of our airbox.
I've used this in practice and it works great until a hole or a rock impeeds your progress.
Better in still water where you don't get a build up on one side.
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