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Old 08-29-2008, 11:35 PM   #16
maccajim OP
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Back on the roads a bit later than usual did some bike work in the morning the fuel now will be low grade so i pulled the right panel off and disconnected the high grade fuel. The chain was starting to make a pretty bad grating noise from all the fine dirt trapped in it, lubing it works for a while but then just attracts more grit. Also dropped the front tyre down to 15 then 12psi later in the day, my big worry was these cattle grids there are heaps of them and u don't know how good they are can be rutted out in front or behind as trucks have to break. Mostly back off a bit then hammer over them but stay away from the middle as can be gaps there.

The grids are about the only feature in the landscape pretty crazy u actually look forward to them and can get some good jumps on some.


U can see the mirage effect forming at the end of this pic and this is in the winter in summer they must be crazy. After seeing no one for a while u start to see white Toyotas in the mirage or houses something messing with the mind.


This a view of what is beside the road dry as dry it looks like salt is leeching up thru the soil and destroying everything, u will look at this and then see a sheep or goat with a few kids beside her and just wonder what are they eating.


Got to Tilpa pub a bit after lunch time very cool place they have uhf (see channel 35 on roof) so u can call in order food etc. The kitchen was supposed to close at 2 i was there at 2:15pm but the cook opened up and cooked me some lunch i got this sought of treatment in white cliffs as well legends the people out here really take care of visitors and bend rules to help u out.


The river behind the pub very low and dry i got talking to some locals and was warned about camping in Willcania and new i wouldn't make it by dark anyway so decided to stay here. I asked the barmaid where can i camp she points me to a local guy, he just asks very dryly "power or no power" i say "no power" "no worries just go over the bridge turn left and camp by the river for free"


camp site all to myself very nice. It has lots of wrecked old cars that must have been trapped by the flooding Darling a few turned over by the water.


old holden i think



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Old 08-29-2008, 11:56 PM   #17
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Tilpa to Willcannia

Had a great night at the pub lots of people rocked up for a party in the area, met the road workers grading the section to willcannia they told me to take the right fork of the river as they have been fixing it and it is pretty good.
A big plate of cooked yabbies got placed on the bar for everyone and watched some aussie canoe guy win gold very good night.


Met this couple travelling the same roads to Broken hill to work on a sheep station he is a shearer and girlfriend a rousebaout, got the outback travelling system worked out swags in back of trailer spare fuel wheels and 2 savage dogs in the car protecting it. Note how low the tyre pressures are.



Road to willcannia
goes gravel around the corner very nice road.


Had a good look around and found something very shocking under the Tilpa bridge Philth u may have to skip this next bit it is very graphic.


An abandoned honda ct110 postie with a Tilpa pub sticker on it


next morning off to the beautiful willcannia


This road was fun and i had the bike running very well i passed the road crew working grading watering etc and had some fun Dakkar like runs looking in the rear view mirror u just see the trail of dust blown up by the bike as u hammer thru the outback absolutley awesome. Really blasting and feeling like u are leaving a trail of smoking dust across the country


I pulled up here and tried to warm my hands up and just relax the silence is amazing didn't see a living thing or sound, The couple in the white commodore cam passed and asked if i was ok, all good and they kept going they were the only people i saw until willcannia.

Got to willcannia pretty early what a ghetto like some south african soweto heaps of young mums with 2 kids walking around and people just sitting on the street, i filled up and headed out to white cliffs. Saw some old retired grey nomads couldn't back their trailer to fill up so there was a que of about 4 or 5 waiting for the same diesel bowser must have taken them an hour to fill up. Talked to the service station owner met a guy who gave me advice on the white cliffs road got 2 red bullshits and out of there.


Road into White Cliffs they put these big S bends in to slow down the trucks and stop the dust watching trucks arrive along this is like watching vehicles coming from another world nothing out there as far as u can see, the dust clouds from the semis is about 2 storeys high like something out of mad max simply awesome.




If u are on the same dirt road as these guys u want to pullover if u see them they hammer and the dust is intense, they also rut out the roads a bit so have to work on a speed to float over these ruts.


Don't mess with these guys



Arrived at the White cliffs pub dry and tired and the pub is closed they only open at 4pm everything runs on different times so people can do other jobs such as mining building etc, bit weird but u get used to it and this was the weirdest but most hospitable place i have been people were awesome, i think got a bit more respect as i had come from Sydney to here and tried most of the dirt roads, they really don't like the whinging Grey nomads.


White cliffs hard country looking form this hill u can see only dessert as far as the horizon scary but beautiful, start to think i better take better care of my bike as i'm a long long way from home and homes a long way from me.

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Old 08-30-2008, 01:14 AM   #18
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Are there really wild shetland ponies in the outback? Ive heard of emus and cats and camels, but the ponies are new to me.
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:19 AM   #19
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White Cliffs


This is the spoil from the mining digging a shaft down and piling the rubble on the surface there are houses under here my motel was just to the east of here and it had 6 rooms, really crazy.

The roof or ground of Pjs guesthouse it is massive over 6 rooms very spacious and u really don't feel that u are below ground


My room very nice one as it had a window below ground the first shaft so not so dark and clasuto. The window is the orignal shaft they dig down straight get to a level and then branch out in 4 directions of the compass looking for opal these became the rooms of the guest house really nicley done and behing the rooms is still a live mine that i got a tour off later.



The mine behind my room stunning had old pick marks from 1890's


Solar panel dishes experiment form 20 years ago not working now just a monument very stunning to look at though


maccajim screwed with this post 08-30-2008 at 01:49 AM
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:32 AM   #20
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Nice!
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:42 AM   #21
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wild everything

hiya mhpr262
There is wild everything if there is a flood or fire whatever animal was being farmed escapes as the fences are gone, near my parents farm someone tried farming deer first flood fences gone and deer gonesky u can now hunt wild deer in NSW australia crazy. I guess the same thing happened to someones shetland pony farm as i saw heaps of them and goats everywhere, they are used to cars and trucks but take fright when hearing a motorbike and run in any direction.
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Old 08-30-2008, 02:25 AM   #22
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A mate used to teach at Louth in the late 70's. Drove out there one long weekend from Tumbarumba. I don't remember how many kilometres in the dark looking for 'roos, very daunting. My most abiding memory of Louth was the hum of generators because it wasn't on the grid back then. Guess that has changed. They had this huge thumper of a genie running the tennis court's lights, thay had a comp weekend and everyone from hundreds and hundreds of km came to play and play up. The Louth races are supposed to really be something to see and experience.
We went to Tilpa pub, boy has it changed. When we were there it was closed. Someone told us it was the only time it was closed in a hundred plus years, dunno if true or not. The people I met were really interesting and friendly. I'd like to go back out there on the GS.
Good story and pictures.
I don't know why we don't get more Europeans and Yanks out here experiencing the outback.
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:12 AM   #23
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louth is crazy tiny town but the race track has proper racing rails a grand stand and very professional.

next part will be more white cliffs then some mad max broken hill stuff, the road from white cliffs is around 220km of dirt and simply awesome riding.
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:30 AM   #24
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I love this stuff. Thanks.
It's bloody hard looking at your pics though, having grown up in the country and now living in the city.

I liked the farm shots, your old man looks the real deal, great to see some country "home" stuff too rather than just towns.

Like you've alluded to, it's the people that make the bush eh !

Andrew.
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:41 AM   #25
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Sweet!! I bet that Honda solution would work, even with a laden bike. Must try it out on the G650XC.
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Old 08-30-2008, 03:55 AM   #26
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hiya steve

Hiya steve how is the leg, the wolfman tank bag was my lifeline for the trip had all my important stuff in it thankyou
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:09 AM   #27
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Great pictures! In the very first one, I wonder why the road is so wide - it's huge. Is it because of those truck caravans I've read about in other posts?
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Old 08-30-2008, 05:15 PM   #28
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the roads

The roads are all different and change every season with the rains. Some are wide as when one section gets rutted up people just start driving on the parts next to it and widen the road, i saw one with 2 lanes of ruts in the middle and two either side was as wide as a 4 lane highway. If there is some sort of mine on the road then it will be widened to get those massive yellow trucks in and semis full of equipment.

In the next part i saw the making and upgrading of the Red clay bulldust type roads and nearly came to grief with the low front guard.
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Old 08-30-2008, 10:57 PM   #29
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Great Report!!

Great Report and Pics Myte....

Seems like you have got the best of the two worlds!! Life in the Big City and the other in your farm!!

But I will tell you somthing you might feel as weird.... I am scared of Horses!! For some reason, they seem really menacing!! Hehe... I Remember when I was touring Europe, we went to a horse farm in Bavaria where you can leave your horse and just visit them anytime and ride them without the hassle of feeding and taking care of them. My friends there live in a town suburb and hence dont have any space for the horse at home...

Anyway.. when I got there and saw the horses close up for the first time... they just scared me... funny how my 180 Horse R1 doesnt scare me as much as the real 1 horse... hehe...

Keep the report coming!!!

Cheers

Bala
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Old 08-31-2008, 01:56 AM   #30
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hiya Bala

I read your report with lots of laughs well done i think that is how u have to travel out there be flexible if plans change so what u adjust, inspiring report. I can't wait to get back out there now.
How good are the night skies u just can't explain them, after the first few nights i was just sleeping on a matt and sleeping bag no tent and looking up at some amazing sights. The sattelites streaking across the sky simply stunning u can't fully describe it and i couldn't capture it in a photo wich is maybe good people have to get out there to see it feel it.
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