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Old 09-02-2008, 12:00 PM   #1
tweaked OP
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Painting equipment needed to paint a bike? help pls

I was wondering if someone could give me a basic run-down on the equipment I would need in order to paint a bike? I'm getting a used bike this week that I will need to have painted. I have other uses for getting the painting equipment as well, so I thought I would see what all I would need. I don't need anything fancy, im not trying to win a competition or anything. I would just like to get some nice paint on my bike.
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Old 09-02-2008, 12:28 PM   #2
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* Block sander
* Coarse, fine, ultrafine sandpaper
* 25lb elbow grease
* Harper Brush "purple" HVLP gun (less expensive alternative)
* Rattle can for primer (primer is too thick for the hvlp gun, and it doesn't have to look good )
* Good paint, thinner, reducer... That stuff I'll leave to others.
* A buttload of clear
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Old 09-02-2008, 02:11 PM   #3
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Totally depends on what you want/need.

A rattle-can paint job can look pretty good if you prep it right and cost less than $20. Or you can go all out and buy a pro sprayer and pro automotive paint and make it look like shit anyway because you don't know what you are doing and don't have a proper paint booth.

Or anything in between.
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:09 AM   #4
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I had pretty good luck with an assortment of wet/dry sandpaper, Rust-o-leum Satin Black from Lowes and Duplocolor from Autozone. I wasn't looking for perfection - it's a 20 YO R100GS - but I got really good results and saved a bunch of money.
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:52 AM   #5
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I put a link on your other thread.

Trust me on this. Duplicolor is the shit. Heres a link to photos of a BMW R1200C I painted.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364447




The key is do a good job on the prep. And several layers of clear.
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAKEZ
Trust me on this. Duplicolor is the shit. Heres a link to photos of a BMW R1200C I painted.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364447




The key is do a good job on the prep. And several layers of clear.
Wow... can you give me exact details on your prep and exactly what you used? I like the way that bike looks. I'd like to try this since it's relatively inexpensive, and I've never painted a vehicle before! Tell me what I need, and what I need to do! thanks!
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:10 AM   #7
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Yea Duplicolor looks great...for about 2 months. It is cheap, but it doesnt hold up so if you dont mind painting your bike once a year then I guess its fine.

I have been fumbling through amature painting for about ten years and im getting pretty good at it IMO. Your going to spend about 150 bucks and have a finish that its pretty indestinguishible from a pro.

Heres a rundown on my last project, which was my SV650. (I apoligize in advance, my spelling is atrocious.)

I start by stripping down the old fininsh with paint stripper and steel wool till you have bare metal. Then I used duplicolor primers...in this order. First, fill dents and scratched with Bondo. Wetsand with 240. Then spray with the Etching Primer. Then a couple coats of Sandable primer. Sand with 400. Another coat of primer. Sand with 800. Repeat until your surface looks like glass. If you have any flaws in it at this point it will show through! When it looks perfect, that last coat was Duplicolor primer/sealer which you don't sand the last coat.

Here is good rule of thumb in case your wondering... The primers are all laquer based. The finishing paints are all polyurethane enamel based. You can paint enamel over laquer all you want, but you CANT paint laquer over enamel. This is why its best to start with bare metal then you know what kind of paint is on there every step of the way.

The finishing materials was the PPG shop line base coat/reducer and the shop line Clear Coad/hardner. You can get this at NAPA or any paint store and they will tell you how to mix it and give you a sheet for your temperature and atmospheric conditions. Any decent HVLP or traditional spray gun will work, make SURE you use an inline filter (I like the disposible ones from Harbor Freight), use a good resperator so you don't die, and just remember several real light coats in succession and allow it to start to tack up between.

After the base coat was good and cured (24 hours) I masked off the racing stripe and used duplicolor enamel from a rattle can since you are clearing over it anyway. I didn't worry too much if my masking job was perfect becasue I used this pinstripe tape http://www.finessepinstriping.com/ to go over my lines and it came out perfect. After you have your trim lines down and your decals on, you can clear over the whole deal and I like about 4 or 5 coats because that gives you plenty of thickness for mistakes.

When it is all cured, wetsand lightly with 1000 untill any orangepeel is gone. then sand with 2000 untill the scratches from the 1000 is gone. You will wonder what you did to your beautiful finish but the last step is pure majic....

Buff with Turtle Wax Scratch and Swirl remover on an orbital buffer, and you will have to really lay into it with your weight when you do so. I also taped off the sharp corners of the tank and bodywork so i wouldnt buff through the clear, and then when you are done just do the last little areas by hand.

This process is a pain in the ass, but to tell you truth I enjoy working on bikes and having a rainy day project every bit as much as I enjoy the actual ride. If you dont, then pay someone to do it. However, I still get great satisfaction when someone at a gas station asks me when I got it painted and i can tell them I designed the paint scheme and did it in the garage myself.
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:10 AM   #8
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Tank.
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:11 AM   #9
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Look at that cute face...
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:12 AM   #10
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These pictures were done with my terrible camera phone so they dont look so great but I assure you this process turns out great!
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Old 09-04-2008, 10:18 AM   #11
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Oh DAKEZ, I see what you did there, I never thought of that, just rattle canning it and then using a professional quality 2 part clear coat over it. I suppose that would have decent durability as long as your not using the Duplicolor rattle can clear....

Ive tried a similar process to what you did there and the problem I had was the base color coat didn't properly adhere to the primer and it lifted even when I just had my tank bag on it. I dont know what the solution is to prevent that, unfourtunately.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:37 PM   #12
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I've been an autobody tech for 16 years. Like Troy and others have said, the prep is most of the battle. I paint things at home in my shop and use a Sharpe Platinum non-HVLP, gravity feed spray gun. I wouldn't strip all the paint off unless it's more than 60% gone and you have some rust. Then I'd have it soda or bead blasted. Blasting will leave a bit of "texture" on the metal but you'll be sanding and priming it anyway. If you get it soda blasted, be sure to wash it thoroughly with vineger and water (50/50) to neutralize the soda. Then wash a couple times with soap & H2O. If the paint is just worn and chipped in the usual places, I'd just sand with 150 or 180 the whole thing, making sure to feather back the chips and worn areas. NOw is the time to fill dents with body filler. Then degrease with rubbing alcohol and clean paper towels. I'v even used clean shop rags when desparate. Then prime, let dry just until the wet look goes away (like 10 minutes), and do another coat, and then a third after a 2nd waiting period. If you get rattle can primer, get the best you can find. U-POL makes a good one, comes in a blue can but you'll have to get it from an automotive paint store. The NAPA stores in my area only carry the Martin-Senior brand of paint (made by Sherwin Williams if anyone cares to know).
Let the primer dry 24 hrs. Then wet-sand w/ 400. You could wet sand again w/600 if you want. Now you're ready for top coat. Never enamel unless it comes in a rattle can. Use urethane, it dries the quickest and holds up longer. Putting on clear can extend the life of your paint. If you want a quicker, easier job, just sand the whole thing with 400, clean and rattle can it with the color of your choice. Just use light coats and let them flash off between coats, that 10 minute wait I mentioned above. It won't last near as long but it will look great going down the hiway.
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Old 09-05-2008, 05:48 PM   #13
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"The finishing materials was the PPG shop line base coat/reducer and the shop line Clear Coad/hardner."

Yep sorry, the above pain is a Urethane which is technically, I believe, an enamel based paint. Yep, its all liquid plastic...
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:41 AM   #14
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I like the duplicolor high-heat paint. I've painted a rifle with that stuff and then baked it in an oven to cure it at 400-degrees for a few hours. After letting it cure for a few weeks in the sun the paint is almost indestructible -even gun-cleaning solutions like Hoppes won't touch or hurt it. Now, this isn't something you can do to a motorcycle fairing part (especially if it is plastic) -but it just goes to show that you can get very hard and durable paint coatings from a rattle-can.

AviatorTroy,

Thanks for the information. I'll have to put that into my text-file vault for further reference!
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