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Old 11-04-2008, 08:08 PM   #46
lgottler OP
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After I adjusted the carb, it fired up on the first kick.
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Old 11-05-2008, 06:48 PM   #47
Putts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
After I adjusted the carb, it fired up on the first kick.
Most excellent!
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Old 11-06-2008, 03:29 AM   #48
reddirtjoe
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Mine fired after getting the point gap right. Note to self-- No matter how bored or long it takes do NOT hold plug while test kicking. Now my hair is even curlier
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Old 11-07-2008, 02:41 PM   #49
lgottler OP
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The cheap fuel filter I picked up at AutoZone broke. Actually it fell apart overnight. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a steel encased one...possibly a car fuel filter....? And I need to locate 5/16" clear plastic fuel line, I'm using black fuel hose now, but I'd like to see the state of gas as it enters the carb.

Sparky! Thats why I bought a spark tester!

I'm actually at work now, I'm planning on welding a new nut on the front fender bracket and making a new front adjustable screw for the brakes. We'll see what happens tonight.

I can't think of much else. The oil injector pump is rotating, but I need to put some oil through it to make damn sure it works!

I don't have some rubber tie downs for the battery or the tank, I might zip tie stuff with some rubber isolators on each.
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Old 11-07-2008, 03:18 PM   #50
tathambenjamin
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filter

maybe you got a faulty fuel filter.. I have been running a cheap auto zone filter on my BMW for over 8k miles without any issues. How did it fall apart?
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:04 PM   #51
lgottler OP
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Where the fitting is on the end. Looks like the pressure of the line pushing sideways on it made it crack. I found some others online for about $6 that are steel, I'll grab one of those. This one cost $2 and was clear plastic.
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:24 PM   #52
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I picked this up at Advance Auto Parts, cost about $4. 5/16" in and out. Just about perfect size too.



Here is my new front brake mount/adjuster. Pictured next to the old one, actually that was the best of the 3 bikes, but not good enough . Took about 45minutes to make. I took a M6x1.0x50 hex bolt, threaded the rest of the bolt (it had a shoulder on it), I threaded on another nut right under the head, then I welded the nut on. Then I sanded the flats back on it, drilled the top .315" diameter and .235" deep. Took it on the surface grinder with a thin wheel, .090", and worked the groove in it. I didn't go quite as deep as the original, the cable still clears, but I wanted to keep as much strength in the bolt as I could.
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:00 PM   #53
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I had one of these as an early teen and beat the living day lights out of it. just throw a set of rings and beat the crap again and again. It would never die. Good luck with it.
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Old 11-08-2008, 03:43 PM   #54
lgottler OP
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It runs and drives.

I had to tweak the carb a bit, the clip on the needle needed to move down one notch, but now it idles smooth and I have power up all the way to 6k.

I have a few issues.
1)AutoLube pump doesn't seem to put out much oil, kinda just seeps out.

2)Front end acts like its just a brick between the wheel and me. It cycles just fine with me on it, but going over bumps, its wayyy too stiff. No give at all. I think braking it dives about 1" on a hard brake. I can jump on it and get it about 3" of travel.

3)Hi/Low doesn't seem to work....if thats what H-L stands for? Both settings are the same.

4)No horn

5)Impossible to get into neutral without reaching down and doing it by hand, then by hand its very easy. Without engine running, its simple to get into neutral.

6)I need a helmet.









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lgottler screwed with this post 11-08-2008 at 03:53 PM
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Old 11-08-2008, 04:25 PM   #55
Irnworker433
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73 at3

Heres my little Yamaha. Glad to see others. Mine works fine all the way around, just that the spark plug gets really wet after riding for a few minutes then runs like doo doo. Float?? Anyways nice bikes guys.

Darrin Morgan
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Old 11-08-2008, 07:36 PM   #56
* SHAG *
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Location: Bradford, Pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
It runs and drives.

I had to tweak the carb a bit, the clip on the needle needed to move down one notch, but now it idles smooth and I have power up all the way to 6k.

I have a few issues.
1)AutoLube pump doesn't seem to put out much oil, kinda just seeps out.
Nice job man

The clip on the needle doesn't have anything to do with the idle (you probably know that) and the oil injection just drizzles the oil in.

Does the pipe still have the baffle?
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:22 PM   #57
lgottler OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by * SHAG *
Nice job man

The clip on the needle doesn't have anything to do with the idle (you probably know that) and the oil injection just drizzles the oil in.

Does the pipe still have the baffle?
The bike didn't have any balls after say 4k rpm, so the book said it was probably lean condition and to move the needle up (more gas goes in). That seemed to correct the lack of balls at higher rpm's.

The oil injection: after running it for about 1/2hr there wasn't enough oil to even drip down the hose, it was just "wet" with oil (new oil).

Baffle? I'm baffled. The engine noise is louder than the exaust. I don't know what normal is, thats another reason I took the video to kinda let people hear it. There is a little directional thing screwed onto the end of the muffler....?
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Old 11-09-2008, 07:32 PM   #58
* SHAG *
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Location: Bradford, Pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
The bike didn't have any balls after say 4k rpm, so the book said it was probably lean condition and to move the needle up (more gas goes in). That seemed to correct the lack of balls at higher rpm's.

The oil injection: after running it for about 1/2hr there wasn't enough oil to even drip down the hose, it was just "wet" with oil (new oil).

Baffle? I'm baffled. The engine noise is louder than the exaust. I don't know what normal is, thats another reason I took the video to kinda let people hear it. There is a little directional thing screwed onto the end of the muffler....?
We used to pull the hose at the cylinder and spin the wheel on the oil pump fast, like your mouse wheel. You should see small gurgle of oil going to the cylinder.

The baffle might be plugged. A screw on the side holds it in. Remove the screw and try to pull the inside out with channel locs. Twist, turn & pull back. Won't be easy. Start the bike up, it should be pretty loud.

Look at the spark plug. Should not be white or real ugly corroded.
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:22 PM   #59
BillsR100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
After I adjusted the carb, it fired up on the first kick.
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Old 11-09-2008, 08:24 PM   #60
Skinskier
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Nice bike

I had one of them from the time I was 12 until about 18. I had a lot of fun on it. Then I took a break from bikes until I was about 30 and I got a KTM. It was hard to adjust from my days of old on the yamaha to the big KTM. I kind of miss that old bike. Have fun on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lgottler
It runs and drives.

I had to tweak the carb a bit, the clip on the needle needed to move down one notch, but now it idles smooth and I have power up all the way to 6k.

I have a few issues.
1)AutoLube pump doesn't seem to put out much oil, kinda just seeps out.

2)Front end acts like its just a brick between the wheel and me. It cycles just fine with me on it, but going over bumps, its wayyy too stiff. No give at all. I think braking it dives about 1" on a hard brake. I can jump on it and get it about 3" of travel.

3)Hi/Low doesn't seem to work....if thats what H-L stands for? Both settings are the same.

4)No horn

5)Impossible to get into neutral without reaching down and doing it by hand, then by hand its very easy. Without engine running, its simple to get into neutral.

6)I need a helmet.









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